Jump to content

Frame overlap/uneven frame spacing with Exa 0


daniirwan

Recommended Posts

<p>Hi all. I've recently bought an Exa 0 (not sure which version it is, there are so many variations!) with a CZJ Biotar 58/2 lens. I'm very happy with the results it gives me, except for one thing...both rolls that I've shot with it came back with uneven frame spacing which causes the frames in the negatives to overlap, seemingly at random. I'd say 30% of the frames are affected in this way, while others are totally fine. I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary when I advanced the film using the advance knob, it turns smoothly and everything seems to be okay with the camera. This has got me stumped. Has any of you experienced this before, and if so, what causes it and can it be solved/repaired? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Not an expert on this type of camera but here goes. Most older mechanical camera problems usually occur along two main lines: wear and lack of use. Your problem may arise from the natural wearing of the metal gears or ratchets used in winding. The metal parts simply don't mesh or stay aligned as they were originally assembled. Or, because the camera may have not been used for a long time (as is common with vintage equipment) some pressure friction or lubricated components do not actuate as before.</p>

<p>The wear equation requires disassembly and repair. That can mean a technician may only need to make a simple adjustment or (worst case) instead might need to replace parts. Either way, you should expect to pay as much for repair as the cost of buying a new/old camera body (if you can find one). Up to you.</p>

<p>For the lack of use side, you could try winding and releasing the shutter a number of times without film in the camera. Spend an evening clicking away while you watch TV. Sometimes this gently limbers-up vintage equipment. Sometimes, not always. Then run another roll of film through the camera. If the problem continues in the same way, you're looking at a repair. If a squeak develops, or seems harder to wind while you do this, stop.</p>

<p>If it were me, I'd be happy the old instrument works at all. If you're not going to use the camera in a professional capacity, accept the limitations of the unit and compose images near the center of the frame. Enjoy it while it works. Metal fatigue, friction and corrosion will eventually overtake the springs and gears in all our collectible treasures. If you really, really love the camera, repair it. If you purchased it to complete a series, get a couple of quality snaps from it and keep it primly dusted on your shelf. Most people who collect vintage cars never drive them very much. Sometimes it's the same with camera folk.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Although I haven't heard of this with the older Exas, many DDR cameras had very "sensitive" wind systems. Jim's suggestion is quite possibly what is wrong, but try the following too.<br /> The key variable in many DDR cameras with this problem is the failure to maintain tension on the film as it is wound forward.<br /> First, make sure that the insertion of the film into the take-up roll is not "bunching up" under the film, so that the effective diameter of the takeup spool is uneven.<br /> Second, keep the rewind knob tensioned so that the film is not loose in the original canister. You should see the rewind spool turn as you advance the film.<br>

Also, never "slap" the advance, simply advance slowly and surely.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Exa 1a did this twice when I first got it. I think not on the first or second roll but on the thrid and fourth.

I was also stumped. I think what JDM siad might have been my problem. There was too much slack and it

skipped. I'm concious of this when I load cameras and I always try to make sure it sitting properly. I remember the light box is protruding outward quite a bit and this results in a much sharper angle. The tendency is for the film to fall out or down therefore be sure to press the pressure plate against the film and rotate the camera into the upside dwon

position when fitting the back/pressureplate. Let gravity help you.

The film advance throw on mine is quite short and frankly not especially smooth. I still gently take up the slack on the rewind button and then proof the rewind knob with every advance. I have also had problems with the release

not tripping. Then not being able to advance at all. sort of stuck. This happened twice, but I think this was my own fault with the swing lever to inhibit tripping the shutter. Duh! One thing to keep your troubles manageable. Use 12 Exposure rolls. Then you can always open the camera up in a changing bag to either salvage or rewingd the roll back into the spool!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...