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Best lens for D60


hurley_ward

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<p>I have a Nikon D60 camera with Nikon DX AFS NIKKOR 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G lens. This lens is terrible for what I want. I want to be able to get close ups at a distance of 50+ feet. I use the camera for lots of sporting events and stuff. Which lens do you recommend? I am looking at a Tamron 75-300mm AFS. Just do not want to buy until I know... I am not up to date with photog terms. Thanks</p>
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<p>When you say "close ups" at 50+ feet, what do you mean? Should a person's face fill the entire frame? A standing human? A bird? A car? <br /><br />And: are you planning on shooting in low light (say, night sports under poor stadium lights), or are we talking about broad daylight? Charles' suggestion is probably the best bet (lacking more details from you) unless you're willing to spend <em>way</em> more money than that.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the responses. I plan on shooting indoors like basketball and outdoors like football. As for close ups, I mean to be able to take a picture of a football player from the stands. The close up doesnt have to be face to face photo but enough to single a player out.</p>
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<p>The 70-300 will probably satisfy you for the football shooting, as long as you're in <em>good light.</em> It's only f/5.6 when you're out to 300mm, so to get a fast enough shutter speed to freeze action at a tolerable ISO, you're going to need lots of light. If you want to shoot under the lights, you're going to need a much faster (and thus much more expensive) lens.<br /><br />Basketball sort of has the same problem, because the ligth is usually terrible. But you probably won't want a 70-300, as most of that range would be too long in a typical gym. Are you talking about shooting from the floorboards, or up the stands? Either way, you'll want at least an f/2.8 lens (perhaps Sigma's 70-200/2.8 HSM if you dont want to spend the much bigger bucks on Nikon's version) ... but even f/2.8 can be too slow for basketball. Your other options for that scenario - Nikon's 50 or 85mm f/1.8 lenses - don't have built-in AF motors, so your D60 can't AF with them. If you're really on the sidelines and near the basket, you might be able to make use of Nikon's $200 35/1.8, which is AF-S and will like your D60. For somewhat more reach, Sigma's 50/1.4 HSM would do well, but not for all-the-way-across-the-court shooting.<br /><br />Sports shooting in poor light is an equpment- (and thus cash-) intensive thing to do well, I'm afraid. You'd have better low light sensitivity, much better AF, and more frames per second if you move up to a D300 - and that would also allow you to use lenses like the 50/1.8 or the 85/1.8 in the gym. It's always something!</p>
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<p>Everyone always seems to forget about the 50mm f1.4 Nikon. I see so often on these boards people recommend the 50mm f1.8 only to say "but it won't autofocus with your d40/60".<br>

Matt if you think 50mm would be a good focal length for him for indoors shooting basketball then I would recommend the 50mm AF-S f1.4 Nikon. It will autofocus and work 100% fine with his D60.</p>

 

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<p>Yeah the 50mm focal length does not have much reach and you really need to get in close to the action to fill the frame with a person. You might be able to get the shots from the sidelines but at that focal length you will really have to work to get the shots you want.</p>

<p>Ideal lens for sports really is the f2.8 zoom lenses like the 70-200mm however those are costly. It would actually be less expensive to pick up a d300s and the 70-300mm Nikon VR. Though I am not sure if that combo would be enough for shooting basketball in low light.</p>

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<p>I'm new, and probably have less experience than you. But from my experience with indoor sports (which isn't much), a prime is the way to go (unless you have money to spend on expensive zoom lenses). With a lense that has a minimum f number of 1.8, you get 8 times more light than a 3.5. And with a 1.4 you get 16 times more light than a 4.0...</p>

<p>That's something to keep in mind. A little cropping is better than having to use the iso 3200. With 8 times more light you would be able to double your shutter speed, and cut your iso in four. I know it's obvious, but it's something to consider,and keep in mind.</p>

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