Focusing problems

[taffy_ledesma]

<p>Hi I just recently bought a Mamiya 645 with a prism finder. My first 6 rolls show how bad i am at focusing properly. I find the finder dark and it is hard for me to get a precise focus. <br>

Any tips as to how to improve my focusing?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

[jim_momary]

<p>Taffy-<br>

Q1. Is your eyesight OK? I'm an old geezer and have cataracts and pretty poor eyesight myself. It's tough focusing. If yours isn't great there are diopters to add to the eyepiece to correct. P.S., do take care of your eyes with frequent exams (public service announcement 23330-A) ... :o)<br>

Q2. Did you use a flip up magnifier? They help out a huge amount in critical focusing, for me at least.<br>

Q3. Are you hand holding? It could be your technique, steadiness, shutter speed, etc. I.e., is it blur or true out of focus? Try a really, really rock solid tripod or support to eliminate that potential.<br>

Q4. If you've moved up from 35mm, you do know there is less DOF for the same F stop, right?<br>

I find the prism viewfinder more dark than the WLF one, and it is harder to see. I use the PDS metered finder when I feel the urge not to use the WLF with a handheld meter.<br>

Might help if you put up a few shots, crops, etc. for people to see and comment on.<br>

Jim</p>

[david_henderson]

<p>I don't use your camera but I do have quite a lot of experience with medium format slrs. </p>

<p>Firstly, you are not alone in this, thats why there is a significant industry in making & selling third party brighter screens for MF cameras. Of these the easiest and fastest to buy are probably Beattie; the best IMO are those made by Maxwell. Sadly they are not cheap particularly in the context of what you probably paid for the camera, but they do make the finder seem considerably brighter with most MF cameras. <br>

Second, does your current screen have a split image focus-aid? Frankly if you are trying to use a plain screen with a std prism then I'm not really surprised you're finding your focus difficult to achieve, because its going to be hard to see where your point of sharpest focus is relative to your image. So if you get another screen, get one with a split image device that you can aim at your main subject and make sure thats sharp.</p>

<p>The next point picks up from the reply above concerning eyesight. Some MF prisms have an interchangeable eyepiece available in different dioptres to suit your eyesight. If by any chance you have an eyepiece fitted that is not suited to your eyesight then it will not help your focussing at all, but will leave you the task of determining which one will, and then finding it. If the eyepiece is of variable dioptre or not changeable then ignore this point.</p>

<p>Finally there is a free solution, albeit imperfect. That is not to use the prism for focus. Set reasonably small apertures and focus according to the distance scale on the lens barrel. This will work decently well on fairly distant subjects but for close ups the tiniest movement on the lens barrel can make an important difference in point of focus and you'll have little depth of field to bail you out. </p>

<p>Oh, and finally you need to get used to the fact that your depth of field on MF lenses is not what you'd expect at a similar field of view with 35mm/digital. In short, focussing well is pretty important</p>

[adrian_wilson9]

<p>Hi Taffy,<br>

Not wishing to shoot this lot down in flames but there are one or two things that may need looking at. First of all I've not used that camera but please take a good look at your lens for signs of fungus. I once purchased a 40mm Bronica lens that was billed as new, and on the cosmetics side it was spot on. Sighting the rear element through to the front revealed what looked like a lightening strike of opaque material. It was only over on one side of the lens but it was impossible to focus on anything, if you have a tiny streak of fungus this could well be your problem. Try a second lens if possible, or get yourself down to a retailers and ask if you can try anything they have in stock that suits and see if there is any difference.</p>

<p>Second Beattie intenscreens are a law unto themselves, I have a couple on my Fuji GX680III's and I can only use them with the cameras magnifier, if your viewpoint is off centre you loose all the image, so in effect your eye has to be positioned exactly dead centre, on 35mm this is not a problem but with more space you can be one side or the other and having more problems than what you started with.<br>

Hope this helps.<br>

Signed.<br>

Blind as a Bl@@dy Bat.</p>

[roelof_lucas]

<p>Check to see if the lens is set to A or M, it should be on A. The 645 should have a nice bright screen. When the lens is set to M the diaphragm closes to the value you set it to to view DOF, but it also darkens the image in the viewfinder making it difficult to focus.</p>

[taffy_ledesma]

<p>Thanks for the responses.<br>

@Jim to answer your questions: My eyesight is ok (20/20), I'm using the AE metered prism finder (SLR style), I'm handholding between 1/250th and 1/60th with an 80mm lens, yes i know about the DOF. I think its really a focus accuracy issue on my end. I can't seem to lock in the focus perfectly. Thinking maybe I just have to shoot with faster film and a smaller f/stop. Will a waist level finder and magnifier be better?<br>

@david, thanks for the tips. I shoot an RF as well so the distance solution might work a bit. But you're right, i have to stop down more. I need to make this finder brighter! :) I will consider the 3rd party finder too.<br>

@adrian, lesn and camera is clean as a whistle but thanks for the heads up.<br>

@Roelf, it is set to A I just discovered. Makes a world of difference vs the M but still not bring enough to see what i'm focusing on.</p>

 

[roelof_lucas]

<p>The 645 already has one of the brightest screens I have come across, I doubt if any aftermarket screens will be brighter. Could it be that the silvering in the prism you use has degraded causing a loss of light ? You could perhaps buy a focusing screen with wedge, that might make it easier to focus through the prism.<br>

I had the prism on loan for two weeks but decided against it, the waistlevelfinder is so much more comfortable to use. You do not have to lift the whole contraption to your eye for one, and it is less obvious that you are taking a photo which is benificial for street photograpy and candids. I find focusing and composing the shot with the waistlevel finder easier, you look onto the screen and when rocking back and forth the focusing knob your subject sort of jumps at you when it comes into focus. You will need to get a handheld meter though if you do not already own one.</p>

[steve m smith]

<blockquote>

<p>My eyesight is ok (20/20)</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It probably is fine but 20/20 is a distance test. Your viewfinder is close up so it may still be worth checking.</p>

[adrian_wilson9]

<p>This is a mute point but I wear glasses, but for MF work with a WLF I have to take my glasses off as I need to focus directly onto the screen which amounts to about 12 inches in distance.</p>

[roelof_lucas]

<p>Is it possible that the glass plate that protects the prism on the bottom, that sits right over the screen is fogged? That comes off by unscrewing four screws, and then you can clean it. Be very careful as when the plate is off the lightmeter needle is unprotected.</p>

[rashed]

<p>My friend, <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=17200">David Henderson</a>, I have a split focus screen for my 503CW and I taken it out, I put the mat stright plain screen and did have some problem to focus, is the split focus screen better and should I fix it back again.</p>

<p>Thank you my friend and wishing you all of the best for the new year.</p>

[david_henderson]

<p>Rashed. I'm not familar with Hasselblad screens I'm afraid. as I only ever used one and that for a short time. Whilst I would personally always prefer to focus with a split focus aid there might be a possibility, that I don't know how to resolve, that your two screens might be from different series and so might be naturally of different brightnesses. </p>

<p>I would suggest that you start a new post with the name Hasselblad prominent in it and hope that it attracts the attention of QG de Bakker. If there are any model numbers associated with the screens I'm sure it would be helpful to say.</p>

[racerxphoto]

<p>I would suggest trying a split focus screen. They make a world of difference.<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/33907-REG/Mamiya_211_342_Focusing_Screen_Type_B_.html<br>

The E type screen looks like it might be even better.</p>