Baby Crown Graphic Focus Rail Service

[lfbrown]

<p>PS to SG Adams: Nice shot of the Iris.</p>

[sg_adams]

<p>just get a cheap plastic loupe and try that before spending any money on a good one. You'll note that, I think I am correct on this, large format photographers don't use high powered loupes, but stay around 4 to 6x . The 10x magnifies the grain of the GG too much and is really distracting. If you can get a replacement focussing panel on ebay with the original Graflex GG you'll be happy. But you don't need all that right now. <br /> I believe the size of the Prontor shutter to be similar to the Copal 0 but I don't think the lens barrel fits. Not sure and don't have them in front of me this second. I though about doing that if the lens outperformed my Trioptar but it didtn't quite so I forgot about it. But if you think about it, you can probably pick up a different lens to try in a good Copal shutter for less than a shutter alone, which seem to get high prices. I don't know how you like to shoot, or your style, but I like to use the 135mm Optar a lot on my small Graphics. It's just a sweet lens and they are relatively inexpensive and would get you a longer lens for use as a slightly longer than normal and makes a good cropable portrait among other things, and allows full movement capability for shooting up close or for the near/far effect which I use a lot in landscapes. I keep a Mini-Speed set up with an old 127mm, a Pacemaker Speed with a 135 Optar, a Century with the 80mm Xenotar, and a few others all calibrated to use hand held with RF's or GG focussing. If I need more bellows draw I switch up to a 4x5 Speed, Crown or View and use a 120 roll back, and thus can pack a pretty long lens on in front of a 6x6 to 6x9 format without having to get out the 4x5 developing equip. <br /> But yeah, I'd learn that camera with the lens you have and see what you can get out of it and what you like to try and do with the Century before even worrying about a supplemental lens.<br /> That was a tough shot above. I made only two exposures, the one color and one B&W. Being that there was breeze coming thru the forrest and the Iris is out at the end of a long stalk, I had my face right down out of the lens's view to feel for wind on my cheek, and just hoped to heck eight seconds would ellapse before the puff moved the Iris. It takes more patience than I have sometimes to just wait, wait, wait, oh, no wait, Ok pull the slide and expose.......... Honestly I thought the Iris moved on both shots but as you can see, I guess not. The B&W is even better but need to make a new scan as my old computer blew up and I lost a lot of scans. Glad I have the films. .</p>

[lfbrown]

<p>I'm following up in the original thread but if no responses will start a new one. I was unable to work on the camera when the thread was current but have done so today. Disassembly and re-assembly were surprisingly easy. The attached photo shows the parts involved less the screws and a little brass block which sits in a knock cut into the four brass plates that control the tension of the focusing knobs. <br>

As suggested I dropped the bed to remove the front standard from the yoke, removed the range scale, and then removed the four screws holding each of the bed blocks. Once the screws were out I lifted the yoke and bed blocks up about 45 degrees to the bed and removed the blocks. Then I pulled the yoke out of the case slides and that was it. The gearing was full of some solid material I assume to be the original grease. Using a tooth pick I removed the bulk of it. <br>

I then used dish washing detergent and a brass brush with very fine brass bistles to clean out the remainder. I chose this over a solvent as I didn't want any volatiles inside the case with my lens. <br>

I wiped everything down and allowed it all to dry then applied a little machine oil to all points with steel screws or parts. I used the recommended light lithium grease very sparingly on the rack and pinion gears and reassembled. No problem with the yoke being too tight or too loose. I tightened the set screw over the brass block until there was no creep in the focus when I let go of it. <br>

It's very smooth and works great. <br>

Thanks again to all for the input and advice.</p>

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[sg_adams]

<p>Looks nice. Good job. So are we going to see some sample imagery soon? I'll be wanting to know what you think of that lens. <br>

Also, be sure to get the brass block back in right, and I gather you noted the very small set screw above it that is used for adding or lessening the tension? I like to keep mine pretty easy to turn, especially when setting up the RF and running the rack in and out a bunch. Then maybe I tighten slightly after the lube settles in. <br>

Have fun with your new camera ! <br>

SGA </p>

[lfbrown]

<p>Thanks SG Adams. Given the perpetually gloomy and cold weather up here in NW Montana it may be spring before anything other than some test shots get done but I will post when I have something worth showing.<br>

Yes, I got the block back in and adjusted the set screw. I went very, very light on the lubrication using the lith grease on the rack and pinion gears and candle wax on the yoke slides. I can always go back and add more if necessary.<br>

I don't think I can leave the focusing too loose because the springiness in the bellows will pull it back if there isn't enough tension. </p>