Hasselblad 500 ELX

[nick_johnson6]

<p>Hello all,<br>

I just purchased a used 500 ELX off eBay. Here's the description: <br>

"serial no. RT 1331427 --- Body has been modified to take 5 AA batteries. Basically works like a 555ELD --- front cap, no back cap --- split focusing bright screen --- Condition: works perfect - only minor cosmetic wear including some marks from a sticker".<br>

Price paid: $235<br>

I'm really not at all sure why I bid on this but I did, and it's done.<br>

I've never owned nor used a Hasselblad and I'm entirely in the dark as to where to begin to outfit this body.<br>

I suppose all I need is lens and film back and perhaps a manual.<br>

So is it the case that all Hasselblad lenses and film backs will fit this 500 body?<br>

Are film backs made specific for either 120 or 220?<br>

Any lens suggestions and good sources for purchase?<br>

Or perhaps a link to a good source for a Hassi newbie.<br>

I tend to shoot outdoors and somewhat close up. When shooting 35mm film, I mostly use a 35mm or 50mm lens.<br>

Thanks for any help and apologies if this is all too redundant.<br>

-Nick</p>

 

[vick_vickery]

<p>Yep, all lenses and backs DESIGNED FOR THE "V" OR 500 SERIES will fit your camera; the ones for the focal plane shutter cameras (1000 and 2000 series) won't work. I would strongly suggest backs with the prefix "A" such as A12 or A16 (120 film). or A24 (220 film) since these backs are newer and easier to load than the earlier backs. In choosing lenses, if the info isn't clear, look at the photos to see if there is a shutter speed ring on the lens, if so, it will work with your body.</p>

<p>Manuals are available on line for free.</p>

<p>I bought lenses and backs from KEH and eBay, but many others like B&H have both new and used also; the "bargain" grade backs I've gotten from KEH were very good and worked perfectly.</p>

<p>With your 35mm preferences, a 50mm lens and an 80mm lens might feel right to you, but bare in mind that square format has a little bit different look than 35mm. You will need an extention tube or tubes (or close-up lenses/filters) to shoot close-up with the 'blad.</p>

<p>Have fun and shoot lots!</p>

[kparratt]

<p>Firstly, congratulations on the purchase, and welcome to the club. It sounds like you got a good deal.<br>

Shorts answers to some of you questions:<br>

<strong>Question: So is it the case that all Hasselblad lenses and film backs will fit this 500 body?</strong><br>

Answer: <strong>Yes</strong> to Magazines. Avoid the very early magazines, designated "12". Get the A12 - built better.<br>

Answer: <strong>Yes</strong> to lenses. All C and CF (including CFE and CFi lenses) A good CF lens will keep you going for ages. The C lenses are getting old and Hasselblad no longer service them. I would advise an 80mm and explore it's potential before buying additional focal lengths. A<strong> CF 80mm</strong> .<br>

<strong>Question: Are film backs made specific for either 120 or 220? </strong><br>

Answer: <strong>Yes</strong> . You will be advised my the majority to go for A12 because the range of available films is much greater. (I use both)<br>

<strong>Question: Any lens suggestions and good sources for purchase?</strong><br>

Answer: depending on where you are, if you have reputable second dealers nearby. Otherwise eBay. Loads to choose from.<br>

<strong>Question: .... Or perhaps a link to a good source for a Hassi newbie.</strong><br>

Answer: Here at Photo.net you will receive loads of advice at short notice, mostly from very experienced people.<br>

The Hasselblad Manual is worth getting. Doesn't have to be a late edition. I have 3rd Editon which covers everything you will need.<br>

There are several good sites out there, but one of the best and most comprehensive is <a href="http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/">Hasselblad Historical</a></p>

<p>That's just for starters.<br>

Cheers, and be seeing you around. Kevin</p>

[kparratt]

<p>Vick and I were writing at the same time. See what I mean? It doesn't take long to get help here.<br>

Vick mentions the A16 mag, which I slipped over. Very nice if you like the 6X4.5 format.<br>

For close-up, as well as the extension tubes, there are also "Proxar" auxiliary lenses, look like a filter and attach in the same way. Effectively a diopter, like reading glasses, and were made in three strengths for Hasselblad.<br>

Tubes will increase the lens extension and are advised for critical tasks, like copy work, but also require exposure compensation because of the lens extension. The Proxar lens is easy to use and requires no such compensation. I use both.</p>

 

[len_robertson]

<p>Nick - Sounds to me like you made a good move. You must have wanted to get into Hasselblad whether you knew it or not. I already had two mechanical Hass. bodies, but made an impulse purchase on eBay of a 500ELX because it was cheap, and I wanted to play with a motorized body. I've really enjoyed using it, and am happy I got it. I suspect you will feel the same once you get a lens and film back. Did your body include a waist level finder?<br>

One of my favorite Hasselblad info sites: http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?Hasselblad500el.html~mainFrame There are hot links over to several other pages on backs, finders, lenses, etc.</p>

<p>Len</p>

[francisco_disilvestro]

<p>From your list it is not clear if the body comes with a waist level finder. You may need to get one or get a prism finder</p>

[nick_johnson6]

<p>Wow. Wow. You people rule!<br>

Thanks to you all.<br>

I was experiencing some buyers remorse, but you guys set it somewhat at ease. I truly do not know what possessed me. I have always admired Hasselblads from afar but also knew it was a system that was too far a financial reach for me (and it may still be). I have been eager to return to large® format photography recently and I do admire Swedish design (my 500 will look good in my old Saab 900), so these factors may have been at play. I was actually looking for a Mamiya C330, but the Norse Gods intervened.<br>

I also had no idea whether this was a good deal or not, but it sounds at least that I didn't grossly over pay. Proof will be in the quality of the camera itself. Should it be taken somewhere or sent out for testing? <br>

Thanks so much for the "A" advice, as in buy an A12 or A16.<br>

Thanks as well to the "C" vs "CF" advice regarding lenses. I think I will buy a used 80mm CF and start from there.<br>

I spend a good deal of time in NYC so it's easy to shop at all the big photo stores there, which is perhaps optimal so I can actually handle what I may buy. Otherwise, BEH looks great. With regard to BEH: what would be the minimal rating one would trust for the purchase of a lens? I know this may be subjective, but some anecdotal advice would be appreciated.<br>

I suppose I should also buy at least two magazines?<br>

As to waist finder: Yes, it has one.<br>

Thanks again to you all.<br>

Very much appreciated.<br>

-NIck</p>

[nick_johnson6]

<p>Excuse me, KEH.</p>

[john_kwok]

<p>Nick,<br>

Congratulations for being both a fellow novice to Hasselblad and for outbidding me for that camera! Having spoken to some professional photographers who shoot frequently with Hasselblad, I don't think you need to worry so much about whether your acquire older C lenses or the newer CF/CFi etc. versions. I recently purchased over on eBay an old C T* 150mm Sonnar and a beat up Hasselblad 500cm and am impressed with the quality of the pictures I've taken, especially handheld at f/16 1/60 second on a moderately windy day.). Am hoping I can find cheaply, T* coated 50mm Distagon and 80mm Planar lenses soon.<br>

Before you start purchasing lenses, you should ask yourself why you are interested in using the Hasselblad, and perhaps that might lead you towards deciding which lens(es) would be most suited to your needs.</p>

<p> </p>

[john_kwok]

<p>Nick,<br>

Congratulations for being both a fellow novice to Hasselblad and for outbidding me for that camera! Having spoken to some professional photographers who shoot frequently with Hasselblad, I don't think you need to worry so much about whether your acquire older C lenses or the newer CF/CFi etc. versions. I recently purchased over on eBay an old C T* 150mm Sonnar and a beat up Hasselblad 500cm and am impressed with the quality of the pictures I've taken, especially handheld at f/16 1/60 second on a moderately windy day.). Am hoping I can find cheaply, T* coated 50mm Distagon and 80mm Planar lenses soon.<br>

Before you start purchasing lenses, you should ask yourself why you are interested in using the Hasselblad, and perhaps that might lead you towards deciding which lens(es) would be most suited to your needs.</p>

<p> </p>

[nick_johnson6]

<p>Thanks John,<br>

Well if I outbid you does that mean I paid too much? Don't answer, it doesn't matter anymore.<br>

I think I paid about what it's worth although I was really hoping I would be outbid. I was wondering if even the seller would be on this forum.<br>

I'm interested in taking time to create images on a larger neg to produce a gratifying final print. That's all I got for now. I'll start with a used 80 and go from there. What do you shoot? E-6, C-41, B&W?<br>

Who knows, maybe I'll give up and sell the thing, but I think today I took an unexpected turn that hopefully bares some interesting fruit.<br>

Thanks for the advice.</p>

 

[john_kwok]

<p>Nick,<br>

Don't know if you paid too much, since we'd have to compare your winning bid with others for the same or similar model. In my case I am interested in a larger negative too and working a bit more slowly than I have with my 35mm equipment. As for choosing Hasselblad, it was quite easy since I am quite familiar with Zeiss lenses in 35mm format.<br>

Again, congratulations on your purchase.<br>

Cheers,<br>

John</p>

<p> </p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>With regard to KEH, any rating other than UGLY will probably be acceptible. BGN lenses tend to have minor brassing or other cosmetic defects, but the glass is spotless. The difference between BGN and EX may depend more on age than appearance. You might need a factory CLA on older lenses to lubricate the gear train, replace the main spring and lube the focusing helix, which will cost about $100. Hasselblad gear is highly reliable if used regularly and maintained properly, but may be "interesting" if not.</p>

<p>If there's something you don't like about a purchase from KEH, you can return it within 14 days for a full refund (or credit) - no questions asked. If the problem originated at the KEH end, they will pay for shipping too.</p>

<p>I would avoid "C" lenses in favor of CF or newer versions. C lenses have a narrow focusing ring with sharp cusps. Focusing is always stiffer than a CF lens, even after a CLA, and can be painful. More important, parts to repair C lenses, particularly the Compur shutter, are drying up. Hasselblad stopped making them several years ago.</p>

<p>You will need a special cable release (electric) for the ELX. Don't bother with an ISO adapter - KEH has cable releases at a very reasonable price. It's a good idea to have at least an hand strap, if not neck strap, for the ELX. Either makes it much easier to extract from a tight bag. I wouldn't want to carry an ELX very far with a neck strap.</p>

[mizore]

<p>You'll need a light meter if you don't have one or would rather not carry a digital around to use as a spot meter. Cheapest that does flash would be the Sekonic Flashmate L-308S or the Gossen's small flash meter (DigiFlash). You could also get a used meter, just check it against a known good meter from time to time. The DigiSix would be cheaper yet. You also need a waist level finder if the camera doesn't come with one.</p>

<p>If you want to add flash, look for old automatic thyristor flashes that are still working, handle ones with bracket bars. I got one for $5 at a flea market (Sunpak AP-52) with another $7 for the synch cord.</p>

<p>

<p>I mostly shoot Velvia and Provia for E6, Acros and Tri-X Professional for black and white.</p>

 

</p>

[nick_johnson6]

<p>Thanks for that KEH advice. They seem like a great resource.<br>

I have a Sekonic L508 that I've owned for about 10 years now, plus a sync chord.<br>

Thanks also for the handle and flash tips, I had been wondering about that. The extra bulk of the ELX is a concern for me and I'm not sure the electric wind is worth the weight and the battery concern. But this is sort of moot now, and so a handle seems a worthwhile investment. I also I had no clue as to what to look for in terms of flash or cable release.<br>

An attractive element to this system is the ability to easily switch films while out in the field. I suspect I'll carry B&W and E-6. Also, even though it is prohibitively expensive, it's nice to now that this camera will accept a digital back. <br>

What exactly is a "CLA"? And where would one send a lens for such a service?<br>

Thanks again to you all for the generous help.<br>

-Nick</p>

[john_kwok]

<p>Nick,<br>

"CLA" stands for Clean, Lubricate, Adjust. I understand Hasselblad (at their national USA headquarters in New Jersey) will do this, but am not sure how more expensive it will be than having a professional camera technician do it. In New York City, the two camera repair firms which do on site Hasselblad repairs are Photo Tech and Nippon Camera Repair (both are highly recommended for other makes too). And then there is MA-based David Odess (<a href="http://www.david-odess.com/">http://www.david-odess.com/</a>), who is to Hasselblad repair what Dan Goldberg and Sherry Krauter are for Leicas.<br>

Hope this helps.<br>

Best,<br>

John</p>

<p> </p>

[nick_johnson6]

<p>John,<br>

Yes, that helps quite a bit. Thank You. Would a body need a CLA?<br>

I'm trying to figure out what exactly is the special cable release for the ELX. Does it look like this SK-150?<br>

<img src="http://www.usedcameraexchange.com/HAM0386L/1.JPG" alt="" width="500" height="439" /></p>

[kparratt]

<p>"Would a body need a CLA?" <strong>Yes</strong> .<br>

If it's working fine now, then go ahead with the fun building the outfit and using it. But sometime in the future plan for sending it to one of the recommended. The EL bodies are of robust construction, but just like the best motor vehicles, they last even longer if serviced and fine tuned.<br>

Concerning the price, I would have been prepared to pay that. But it's history now.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>Nick,</p>

<p>Yes, that's one of them.<br>

There are several, varying in length. The longer ones go in the side socket ("S"K) and have that DIN-plug. The shorter one (30 cm/12") goes in the front socket ("F"K), and has a different, jack plug.</p>

<p>The SK 150 (i.e. 150 cm) is probably the most practical.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>The cost of a CLA at Hasselblad is reasonable. The cost of repairing damage caused by lack of maintenance is very expensive and, worse, embarrassing in hindsight. Other technicians do a good job too (e.g., David Odess). Just don't take it to a local camera shop - it will cost twice as much (the first time of several), and take at least twice as long.</p>

[nick_johnson6]

<p>Well I pick up the body this week in NYC and perhaps I'll take it to one of the repair shops that John recommended and let them do their work. I'm not sure I can qualify the working condition of the camera given my complete ignorance in the world of Hasselblad so, if the cost of a CLA isn't prohibitive, it seems the prudent thing to do. <br>

This is often what I do with used purchases anyway; take it to an expert and let them get it up to snuff.<br>

What might be obvious signs that an ELX would need immediate care? Is there something I should look at specifically upon inspection?<br>

Otherwise, until I know how good the body is or I have it serviced, I think I'm going to hold off on the next purchases, even though I'm anxious to get shooting.<br>

I have been noticing that there are some "kit" deals selling for auction at attractive pricing i.e. Body, Lens, Magazine for perhaps less than a lens and magazine would sell for individually. Anyone else find that to be true?<br>

Anyway,<br>

Thanks very much to you all for all your help.<br>

-Nick</p>

[john_kwok]

<p>Nick,<br>

Hasselblad is doing a free camera check at Foto Care this Thursday from approximately 10 AM to 2 PM, but you need to register first to attend. Look up Foto Care's website for its upcoming events and hopefully they will be able to accomodate you. Otherwise, I would highly recommend Nippon Camera Repair ( between 21st and 22nd streets on the east side of Broadway) and Photo Tech (south side of 13th Street just south of 4th Avenue, near Union Square). I think Nippon Camera Repair does have an on site asselblad repair technician every day.<br>

Regards,<br>

John</p>

 

[nick_johnson6]

<p>Thanks John,<br>

I'm not sure I can make it to the city by Thursday. Darn. But thank you for the tip! </p>

[racerxphoto]

<p>Just another plug for KEH I live in NYC and have bought most of my Mamiya parts from them other than local stores. KEH has better prices for better condition equip than either BH or Adorama.<br>

I have found a few deals locally but in general KEH is the way to go. Their customer service is outstanding.<br>

I plan on going to fotocare to check out flextight film scanner demo.</p>

[nick_johnson6]

<p>Thanks David, that is very helpful advice. Can you elaborate on the flextight demo?<br>

I made something of plunge last night with regard to equipment and it may very well have been a mistake, but it can be remedied if it is. Adorama advertised a used 500elm W/ 80mm 2.8/ A12, condition "E-" for $189.<br>

I bought it. I know it's an old lens, but if the equipment is decent it seems like a complete steal. Too good to be true in fact. I'll see, I can always return it.<br>

I'm also hunting for a used Hildi. Given I have an elx, I think I should get either a 4th or 5th edition. Any thoughts?<br>

The camera will be in my hands this weekend. I'm very excited.<br>

Thanks again.<br>

-Nick</p>