Mounting Fuji Crystal Archive on Gatorboard

[peter_e]

<p>I had several 24"x30" prints on Fuji Crystal Archive Digital Pearl mounted on Gatorboard by the photo lab. The surface is not entirely flat but somewhat rippled which is only noticeable against a light reflection. I don't know what technique the lab used to mount the prints. My intention is to display the prints framed but without mat and without glass.<br>

My questions: Are these ripples unavoidable for any kind of mounting on foam board? Is it simply a bad mounting job? Or should I consider a different way of display for future prints? I'd like to avoid using glass.</p>

[foto_man2]

<p>I have not mounted on Gatorboard, but when mounting on regular foam core you can see a slight orange peel from the foamcore itself. Not much you can do about it.<br>

I have seen photos mounted on what appears to be a white acrylic plastic sheet. It was very flat with no orange peel. I don't know where it is available but it looked very good.</p>

 

[steve_vanslow]

<p>Yeah, I think what you're seeing is called "orange peel". It's caused by a combination of the paper surface, the adhesive, and the board it's put on. The more glossy a paper the more orange peel you will see and the more matte the paper the less you will see. Some adhesives will show more orange peel than others, usually less orange peel = more expensive. Gatorboard will almost always show some but generally the smoother the board the better. Acrylic makes for a nice surface but is expensive.<br>

I can understand not wanting to use glass, but if you put these on display, someone will sneeze, spill coffee, put fingerprints, and etc. all over your nice prints.<br>

Steve</p>

[WJT]

<p>Hi Peter. I use Crystal Archive almost exclusively and most are done in Supergloss. I mounted a couple using gator board/foam core with adhesive and had the same unfortunate results that you are having. The solution for me was to use what is called a museum hinge. One uses an acid free archival linen tape to hinge the print onto an archival backboard with a mat hinged to it. Here is link showing what I mean:<a href="http://www.framedestination.com/picture_frame_mounting.html">hinged mats and prints. <br /> </a> <br /> What you end up with is a free-floating print that is secured at its top edge and is held securely by the overlying mat board (which I usually tape down using double sided tape). I also apply some clear mylar strips specifically made for securing prints along the edges. These strips are applied so that there is about an eighth inch overlap on the print's border and they are not at all visible when matted. Since the print is floating it is allowed to expand and contract with changes in humidity and temperature. Oftentimes that is what causes the buckling if the print is plastered to some foam core.</p>

<p>I usually frame the finished print/mat under glass using TruVue AR museum glass but sometimes I just leave them in the mat. This is especially true for some contests that I have entered which do not allow glass or frames, just mats. This system is really great but it does require a few extra steps. My matted Supergloss prints are absolutely flat and smooth. Regards.</p>

[peter_e]

<p>Thanks for the responses so far. My intent was to frame without a mat, using a metal frame. Would that work with a free-floating print?<br>

The rippling I see is not a fine texture (which I would associate with orange peel) but rather like very smooth undulations similar to smooth water ripples with a ~1" wavelength.</p>

[WJT]

<p>No, you would need to have a mat if you went with a hinged, free-floating print.</p>

[steve_vanslow]

<p>Peter,<br>

It could be a defect in the Gatorboard. I'd call the lab and give them a chance to redo it and make it right. <br>

Instead of glass, does your lab offer lamination? Ask to see a sample, there are some nice laminates made for fine art photographs. A print mounted on gator, laminated, with a metal frame around it, can look really nice, especially for large prints.<br>

Steve</p>

[peter_e]

<p>Steve: Yes, the lab offers both lamination and spray coating. The Fuji Pearl is truly amazing. I would consider the lamination if it does not diminish the effect of the paper too much. The Gator board is smooth on the backside so I assume it has something to do with the mounting. I'll contact the lab. Thanks for all the suggestions.</p>

[dave_redmann]

<p>With the mention of Fuji Supergloss, it seems worth pointing out that Supergloss has a totally different backing than regular Crystal Archive glossy. Instead of the emulsion being on paper, it is on some sort of plastic-type material. That may substantially affect mounting. Also, I think its surface is somewhat delicate (not surprising, considering just how glossy it is), which may also restrict what you can do to mount it. It is a cool product, but very different from (and also a lot more expensive than) regular color photographic paper.</p>