Spotmatic (SPII) meter problems...

[adam_n.1]

<p>OK I searched the archives and didn't quite see this one answered...<br>

I've got a Spotmatic SPII with a good battery (Wein cell PX400 replacement, even though I know it will take a silver oxide.) The battery is installed properly and when I do the battery check (shutter speed = B film speed = 100) the needle reacts and drops slightly from it's zero resting place (I have an early model so it rests just under the median between + and -) Anyway, other than at B and 100, no matter what aperture, what shutter speed or film speed setting, the meter flies completely up to the top overexposure + mark. It doesnt waver a bit at all...<br>

If theres a fix for this that doesnt involve completely disassembling the camera i'm game.. i was going to remove the film/shutter speed knob and clean the contacts underneath with some contact cleaner but i don't have what appears to be the special tool to remove the screw that holds it down? Any advice appreciated...</p>

[fritz_carlsson1]

<p>Adam, the SPII has stop-down metering i.e. it meters light at the taking aperture. You can hate me for asking a simple question: Does the lens diaphragm stop down (other than at max. aperture) when you activate the meter by pushing the on/off button upwards where it locks? If not, the problem may not be with the shutter speed/ISO dial. Also check the meter reaction by switching the lens to Manual. These cameras are very robust and seldom give trouble, even after years of use.</p>

[adam_n.1]

<p>Hi, thanks for replying..<br /> The stop down switch definitely works in all regards. I've been using the camera without a meter for a while and still use the switch for checking DOF. I'd really like to get the top plate off so if theres any tips for removing the film speed dial I'm all ears. I've thought about getting a mini shoe mounted meter but the ones I've seen so far don't look like they'd fit behind the pentaprism.</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>Does that meter ever level out into a more normal range? Try varying the exposure conditions for the metering. Sometimes the needle will go to its maximum or minimum and just stay there because the reading is just way out of range. Sometimes one complete spin through the dial will wake it up.</p>

<p>An SPII might be getting old enough to need a replacement part in the circuit, but troubleshooting that is beyond me. Good news is, if I remember right, everything on the parts diagram looked like it was a solid state component. The photocell itself was the only fancy piece in there.</p>

<p>This would imply that it might need a repair; but, the repair would last a long time and be made with commonly available parts. Give the speed dial a spin is what I usually do to wake them up. I don't think it's the battery.</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>The tool you need to open the speed dial is a point-tipped lens spanner. It's one of the most basic repair tools. If you don't have one, you need to get one. Every film photographer should have one somewhere. That type of fitting is on everything.</p>

<p>I think view camera photographers use a similar kind, but that one has a flat-tipped screwdriver end. For SLR work, you will want the one with the pointy fittings; it'll get you into the "two-dot" fittings.</p>

<p>Point-tipped lens spanners work like a charm. I recommend them.</p>

<p>Example of an economy one: http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=SPP<br /> The better style, probably only needed for full time repairmen, can run up around $100USD. I use the economy. With the infrequent, but required, use of this thing, it's worth the under $20 it will probably sell for.</p>

<p>Failure to use a lens spanner is probably one of the leading causes of hobbyists tearing up their stuff unnecessarily. Your disassembly and reassembly will be much easier and much smoother if you just go ahead and get the wrench.</p>

<p>I know I saw a photo of someone who had torn up the outside of a fixed lens rangefinder barrel with a pair of pliers; that lens is held together with one tiny retaining ring, nestled inside a surface he would not have gotten to with the pliers. He scarred up and broke his camera trying to use the wrong tool on the wrong part in the wrong way.</p>

<p>One of those spanners and either a hemostat or self-closing tweezers and a 1mm screwdriver will cover a huge number of your routine repair needs for tools. All in, you can get what you need for under $50, easy.</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>I recommend that type of tool so much, that if you don't have one, don't take apart the camera. Every film photographer will want one of these at some point; under $20 usually. Get one.</p>

[adam_n.1]

<p>It's never in a normal range. It's either completely pegged at + or resting at zero when the meter is off. I've done light repair work on cameras before but only if I could get access with simple jewellers screwdrivers. I should definitely get one of those spanners as you recommend.</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>butkus will have a repair manual for that Spotmatic if you need a guide through the speed dial assembly.</p>

[mc2imaging]

<p>fwiw - I've had good luck using two jeweler's opposing each other to loosen that screw... it shouldn't be that tight.</p>

<p>to me, it sounds like there is a short at the photo cell - you might consider looking for a donor camera.</p>

[kevin_mandaville]

<p>The info below may be moot if not applicable to Adam's case, as he may well have the polarity sorted out. If so, I apologize in advance. Hopefully, then, someone else may benefit from this information.<br>

I've just experienced exactly the same symptoms on my recent SPII eBay purchase. After perusing various forums I noted that some stated new batteries had to go in 'backwards' because the old PX400 mercury cell had an odd polarity. Hence, with many of today's batteries it's important to place them with + toward the camera body (down against the connector), and negative facing against the battery cap. I tried this, and was relieved to find the meter working perfectly. <br>

<strong>Important</strong> <strong>Note</strong>: Remember that many of the batteries one might use designate the 'case' of the cell as +, so it's imperative that insulation be used between most of the cell and the camera body (ground) in order to prevent shorting the battery. Also, ensure that when screwed on, the battery cap only makes contact with the small negative contact disk on the battery and not the rest of the battery casing, for the same reason.</p>