museum photography (indoors, no flash, no tripod)

[robert_hooper1]

<p>Still another artist in action using the same lens: Nikon D70, Nikon 18-200mm f3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR DX, 1/13 sec., f3.8, 24mm, ISO 640.</p><div></div>

[ryan_tsang]

<p>The places I visited recently are not as bright as some of the posted examples above. Robert, VR does look pretty amazing! <br /> One of the darkest exhibits is pictured below. D700, 28-105mm, f4.5, 1/30sec, iso 9000. The image is noisier than it appears here. <br>

Any guesses on where this is?</p><div></div>

[robert_hooper1]

<p>Just a little application of iPhoto to your photo, Ryan. Hope you don't mind.</p>

[robert_hooper1]

<p>Here it is:</p><div></div>

[robert_k1]

<p>Getting the right equipment AND learning how to use it well are both necessary to produce the optimal results. But most questions are ONLY about the equipment, and so are most of the answers. Perhaps the wishful thinking is that equipment by themselves would be sufficient. The equipment manufacturers love this kind of thinking. Ever wonder why their literature have tons of product info, but seldom teach you how to use them WELL?<br>

Here's how a pro holds his camera:<br>

<a href="

And how others deal with postures, breathing, etc.<br>

<a href="http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/42753-what-your-technique-hand-hold-camera-still.html">http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/42753-what-your-technique-hand-hold-camera-still.html</a><br>

<a href="http://lifehacker.com/5370412/breathe-like-a-sniper-to-take-better-photos-in-low-light">http://lifehacker.com/5370412/breathe-like-a-sniper-to-take-better-photos-in-low-light</a></p>

[jerry_schuler]

<p>Bob, I was using my AIS lenses because I could do a F2.8 with them. I have to experment to see what is better in low light F2.8 AIS or F4 or F5 VR Lens. Here's my submission of Ryan's Photo with a bit of Photoshop applied to it.</p><div></div>

[ryan_tsang]

<p>I agree with technique also. In my above photo, I was on one knee and had one elbow propped up on the other knee. I found it more stable than standing up.<br>

I did not do much post process on the pic other than color temp and REDUCE exposure. I wanted to recreate what I saw in there. The lighting was most likely a special type of lighting because the whole room had a weird greenish cast to it. Much darker than I had imagined, no doubt to protect the documents. </p>

[jerry_schuler]

<p>Do you have any other photos we can screw up?</p>

[robert_hooper1]

<blockquote>

<p>"Do you have any other photos we can screw up?"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, I sure feel like a schmuck now! Sorry, Ryan.</p>

[jerry_schuler]

<p>I just watched the "Joe McNally - Da Grip" video in the links that Robert K. provided. That has done wonders for me instantly. Using the left eye, holding the camera from underneath wtih the left arm and pressing the left arm against the body. Resting the camera against my left shoulder. But my neck must me longer than Joe McNally's, I had to put a pad between my shoulder and camera to support the camera with my shoulder. <em>I wonder if they allow shoulder pads in museums?</em> A 1/4 second exposure now seems about as good as my 1/60 sec exposure right eyed and holding the camera in front of me. I may amend this statement after more experience. I thought it not possible. Thank you.</p>

[ryan_tsang]

<p>No apologies required guys!<br>

The Da Grip video was great! Makes me wanna buy the MB-D10 grip!!!</p>

[andrew_fedon]

<p>Ahh, museum photography, a subject that deserves a whole chapter to itself. <strong>Dave Lee</strong>, thats the Assyrian sculptures and the Balawat Gates I believe. I was there in August. Just love those places, along with Natural history Museum in London. The lighting conditions between museums vary so much, there are no two the same. Generally speaking though, thats where the current generation of Nikons such as the D700 come into their own with the high iso numbers, and wide angle lens is essential mainly because most museum exhibits are too large or tightly packed, or there are too many people and you have move in close. If you like the glass case exhibits such as rings etc, then a longer lens with macro may come in handy. I found that in places such as the British Museum and Natural history museum in London, using the pop-up flash hasn't produced any comments from staff there so assume they turn a blind eye to a small flash, maybe a different story if you started flashing away with a professional 'blind everyone' type flash. I think the OP would be well served with the 18-55 he mentions (but I don't know the capabilities of the D90). As for some noise, learn to live with it. You can't have your cake and eat it. Don't expect brochure quality photos. VR will probably help, but if like that kind of photography a lot, then save your pennies for a D700. They won't do you special hours photography unless you're a major publishing house or organisation, and besides, taking the pictures is just part of the fun of touring and enjoying the museum at leisure.<br />Here's one example from the British Museum in August. I had to whack up the iso on the D700 to 4000 to get 1/30 sec at f/4.5 and this is one of the darker areas in the museum. Even at 1/30 sec I'm not too comfortable, and at criticle veiwing I found that many of my photos show signs of shake.<br /><img src="http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr327/eurocypria/DSC_2678.jpg" alt="" /></p>

[jerry_schuler]

<p>Apparently, because of the length of my neck, McNally’s DaGrip was problems for me. So, experimenting, I came up with a solution for DaGrip that seems to work. I put an old ball head tripod head on the bottom of my camera. Now I can rest/press the camera on my shoulder. I have yet to see if this will pass museum security as acceptable. ps. Those aren't scratches on my LCD. Thats a rubbery screen screen protector.</p><div></div>

[jerry_schuler]

<p>After thinking some more. The museum security would probably classify that as a monopod. I'll have to come up with something else.</p>

[robert_hooper1]

<p>This very light weight shoulder brace made by Schiansky in Germany is extremely effective in stabilizing cameras during long exposures. This model is the Staticfix - 203. They are no longer made, but show up on eBay, KEH and other places occasionally. As you can see, it folds almost flat and easily fits in a pocket. It will twist to support a camera either vertically, (right eye or left eye), or horizontally in a <strong>very</strong> sturdy manner. </p>

<p>I've had this one since 1968 and used the brace in tripod free zones all over the world without it ever being prohibited in any venue, museum, etc.</p><div></div>

[robert_hooper1]

<p>The Schiansky Staticfix - 203 in the folded, pocketable mode.</p><div></div>

[andrew_fedon]

<p>Here's another example of my museum photography. Some thing that'll make most peoples' eyes water, a close up of a very large, solid gold nugget. The D700 was on iso 2000, 1/30 sec, at f/7.1, with the 70-300 mm Sigma, can't remember if it was on macro, lit from the single spot light source above, behind (most probably) very thick glass. At the Natural History museum in London. Not razor sharp, but the best I could get under the circumstances. I bet that would buy a few Nikon cameras !<br>

<img src="http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr327/eurocypria/DSC_1867.jpg" alt="" /></p>

[aaron l]

<p>Watch out for the camera-free museums, like Cairo's. There, you just get to check in your camera and hope it's there when you get back. After milling through the crushing crowds, I'm glad there weren't peeps with cameras...the experience would have been even tougher.<br>

Tripod on a string works great, too.</p>

[craig_gillette]

<p>Rotunda for the Charters of Freedom, National Archives in Washington, DC.</p>

<p>Breathe, release, aim, slowly squeeze. But along with a good hold and proper stance, shooting a burst may help, so I've read, it gets past the movement of the push to the shutter release button. If possible, leaning up against a solid support may also help. When an article is in a glass case, a lens hood may allow you to rest against the case.</p>