What did I do??

[brookref]

<p>Wow, I just received my new (used) Mamiya RB67 Pro SD that I won on eBay the other day. It was a complete impulse purchase but the price was reasonably low (I paid about $400, in line with what reputable shops sell these units in used condition) and there was an hour left on the rather competitive bid....(deep breath)</p>

<p>But despite hours of research, as I examined the 67, it struck me that I know ab. so. lute. ly. nothing about MF photography. My questions would be too broad for this forum so I wonder if I might ask a few pointed ones:</p>

<p>-- is there any specific thing (or two) I should look to have checked by an expert? I have until next week to return the camera.</p>

<p>-- along the lines of experts, does anyone know if there are shops in Manhattan (or NYC area) that feature MF cameras? I had to pick up prints at Adorama yesterday and I asked them -- although they sell MFs, they don't repair/refurbish/examine units. </p>

<p>-- from your own experience, any practical advice for my first days of shooting? (heck, I've read and re-read the manual but just trying to figure out how to load the film is what inspired this panic)</p>

<p>I'm very excited about getting out there and learning the ins/outs of MF and I'm sure this (slight) panic is something I'll laugh about some day. So thanks for any top-of-head suggestions you might be able to offer.</p>

[graham_mitchell]

<p>These are fairly simple cameras. It should not take too long to put a roll of film through it as a test, and also to test accuracy of different aperture and shutter speed settings. I assume it came with a lens? If not it might be tricky to run these basic diagnostics, so perhaps you could borrow one. If there is someone close by who is willing to lend you a lens then perhaps they are also willing to look the camera over for you. You should also check the flash sync socket. Sorry it's been years since I've used one that it's hard to think of what else to suggest. I hope someone else chimes in.</p>

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>From someone that has used manual (Nikon F2's and Hasselblad 500C/M) all my life and has now ventured into digital, there will be a lot of commonality. But you will not get a second chance, just by deleting the one you don't like. Manual film cameras force you to get it right as close as you can. 120 film is not cheap and you don't get to see what you shot until you proof or print it (or scan it). I would also have a handheld meter with me at all times like a Minolta Flash Meter. You can do incident, reflected, flash and spot readings by simply changing a few accessories over the sensor. I have had my FM IV for 30 years and it has never failed me. In fact, between it and the Pentax 1º Spotmeter I use, I rarely use the camera's meter at all. Same goes for the meter in my Nikon D700, which I also use all manual prime lens AIS Nikkors with. Zooms are great for convenience, but I for one don't care for them.</p>

<p>You will have to accept that your first few rolls of film may not be so hot. It's all part of the learning process. But you will also find that fine grained film like Kodak's T-Max 100 Professional (B&W)and Ektar 100 (color) will absolutely blow the doors off anything you could even imagine with digital.</p>

[brookref]

<p>It did come with a 90mm lens, I should have said. Easy peasy, right Graham ;)</p>

<p>Scott -- I was sort of afraid of that (more an expression than actual apprehension). I started in film so I'll just have to get re-acquainted with the notion that I can't check my shots for free, so to speak. Luckily, my training was to try to get the shot right from the get-go. Then again, I did get used to the automated metering, so that's going to take some getting used to again....</p>

 

[mark_hodos]

<p>Hi Richard,</p>

<p>I live in NYC and I have an RB67. As people have said, it's simple to figure out once you get the hang of it. It was my first film camera, let alone medium format. Google for a manual, it doesn't matter if you find pro-sd, pro-s, they all work very similarly.</p>

<p>The most important thing is to cock the shutter (if it isn't already cocked) before putting the lens on the body, and cock the shutter before taking the lens off the body. That should help you avoid jams.</p>

<p>A good place to go might be Lens and Repro in NYC. They are very nice and may be able to help you. Also, the Used Equipment counter at B&H probably has someone who knows how to show you how to do things. Adorama is hit and miss, depending on if the guy knows or just "thinks" he knows. Calumet also has knowleadgeable people who may help; just buy a roll of 120 film from them, then say "by the way, can you help me load it"; I'm sure they will help. Calumet is open on Saturday too.</p>

<p>To load film, you have to kind of take the middle piece out of the outer hinged shell of the film holder, get the film in and around the rollers, advance it till you see the vertical dark black double sided arrow, then put the sheel back around it and lock it down. Then, advance it until it stops and a "1" shows in the window. Much easier done than said.</p>

<p>The best way to check if everything is ok is to run a roll of film through it and develop. If there are no light leak streaks or fogging, and the exposures look ok, then it's probably ok.</p>

<p>As to advice for first days of shooting, shoot a few shots handheld as well as tripod, practice shooting mirror-up (it's in the manual), and just try everything. Once you figure it out, it's extremely logical and has all kinds of mechanical safety mechanisms to keep you from accidentally ruining a shot. And even if you do, just get another roll, it's only a few bucks.</p>

<p>Good luck and have fun!</p>

[gary_watson]

<p>Get a manual online. Get and learn to use an ambient/incident light meter(older Minoltas and Sekonics are affordable). Learn how to load film. Be nice to the bellows. Get a stable tripod/head(you don't need anything massive thanks to the rotating back). MF DOF is <strong>very</strong> shallow wide open, so get comfy with shooting at f8-f11.Check for light leaks on the back--the rotating adapter/back seals usually go first and are an easy DIY fix if your first roll has issues. Find a good lab. Try some of the new Kodak TMax 400(TMY-2) or splurge on some slide film.<br>

<br /> They're wonderful cameras. I spent most of the summer shooting nothing but a new RB67 ProS. They are more portable than rumored, so don't be shy about trundling it around. Your first 8x10 b&W and colour prints should close the deal.<br>

<br /> Come back with questions.</p>

[tim_ludwig2]

<p>Free manuals at www.butkus.org. He requests a small donation and is well worth it. Huge selection of manuals for older and even ancient cameras and meters, etc. Rb's are fantastic cameras, just a little bulky compared to Hasselblads. I shoot and love using both.</p>

[holger]

<p>Free manual at <a href="http://www.mamiya.com">www.mamiya.com</a> too. Great camera, hope you will love it as much as I do. Just bought an SD after I sold my first Pro S, a few months without RB had me change my mind. Digital is fine, but slowing down with my RB is real fun. Enjoy!</p>

[brookref]

<p>thanks to all for good suggestions -- i've been talked off the ledge and now eager to get started with this new format. </p>

[racerxphoto]

<p>Richard I am in NYC and have an RZ67 My buddy owns RB (he taught me the basics of it) if you want to go out street shooting together one day feel free to drop me a line.<br>

Cheers<br>

Dave</p>

[brookref]

<p>Dave -- hey, that'd be great, I'd really appreciate that. Why don't you email me off PN to work out some time: utd1 at gmail dot com.... Thanks!</p>

[brookref]

<p>whoops -- that's a hotmail email, not gmail</p>