Lighting Dioramas Behind Glass

[bazz farazz]

<p>Hi Everyone,<br>

So I'm about to start shooting a bunch dioramas that are in wooden boxes with glass on both sides so you can see in. My Problem comes when trying to do close-ups. Shooting the full diorama is fine but when go to shoot close-ups I get all kinds of glare and reflections. I can not take anything apart either. Next problem is there is no budget for upgrading any lighting or camera equipment. This is what I got to work with:<br>

Canon Rebel XSi with 18-55 EF-s kit lens<br>

2 - 750watt halogen lights with white umbrellas<br>

1 - 1000watt halogen light with 24x36 softbox<br>

This is what I got to work with and have no say in the matter. So if anyone has any kind of help it would be most appreciated. I'm posting some photos of the full diorama and a close-up.<br>

Thanks!<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/15278495<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/15278498&size=md</p>

 

[bob_sunley]

<p>Well I hope your softbox is rated for hot lamps, otherwise it might go up in smoke. :(</p>

<p>A polarizing filter might help eliminate the reflections off the glass.</p>

<p>When you use a pol filter at 1/13 sec and f9, you will need some more light to increase your dof by going to f11 or 16. You are only 1/3 meter or one foot or so from the subject according to your exif data.</p>

 

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>If you put the lens right against the glass you won't get reflections.</p>

<p>Personally I'd set up something like this: White paper or card taped behind the glass case to minimise or mask reflections from the rear glass; large sheet of black card with a hole cut in for the lens used to mask the camera reflection in the long shots; close-ups shot with lens pressed up against the glass. Lighting arrangement to taste, but probably going for harder lighting rather than softer.</p>

 

[jcuknz]

<p>A reflection is only seen by the camera if the item reflected has light on it.<br>

Have camera as close the the near glass pane/side as possible and shoot through a hole in a black screen attached to the outside of the diaorama.<br>

One or more polarising filters to control reflections off the back glass... this may cause long exposures but that should not be a problem when using a tripod.<br>

One sees shadows and reflections when the light source is stationary .... if you can reduce the strength of the light [ perhaps use a domestic table lamp instead of photo lighting] and keep it moving through a long exposure that may solve problems. This I think is probably a 'film' solution rather than 'digital' with the limited exposure times [ B ] some digital cameras are capable of.<br>

organise a large white sheet to make a tent over the dia and have your lights outside the tent ... which is another way of organising the soft lighting of the previous paragraph.<br>

Sorry if the polarising filters is an added expense and not affordable.</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>Another principle of reflections ... if you use soft lighting it tends to spray all over the place and light things not needed to be lit and so they reflect. The answer to me seems to be controlled lighting which unfortunately in your case with hot lights needs to be non-inflamable barndoors or screens to only have the light shining on the subject. With electronic flash it is easier as one can make cardboard 'snoots' /tubes.</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>Now I have looked at your portfolio and seen the example it strikes me that you were too far back from the glass and if you have to work at that distance then you need to organise some dark screen material to hide whatever is reflecting in the glass*. The straight on shot seems good without any reflections that I can see. [so whatever was behind the camera was not sufficiently bright to show in the photo.**<br>

*If you now tell me that is your lighting [ :-) ] then the answer is to move them to another position where the camera cannot see them. Glass is like a mirror and it is all about angles as to if one sees or doesn't see.<br>

** If you are limited with the amount of 'darkness' behind the camera and you get reflections of yourself operating the camera a solution could be to set the camera off with the 10 second delay and move out of shot.</p>

[frolickingbits]

<p>A polarizing filter won't help you in this situation, it's all about angles of reflection. You want your lights at an obtuse angle and close in to the glass, and shoot with a long lens on a tripod. One of the reflections you are seeing looks like the shiny leg of your tripod, I drape my tripod legs with a black cloth, and use a remote trigger. Make sure that you step off to the side so that you aren't reflected in the glass.</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>On reflection I would leave my lights at home and shoot by ambient light. This does tend to produce soft results so post treatment in an editor is required usually.<br>

Looks like you have already tried that but not the PP with curves in editing which can improve both shots and I was even able to get rid of the reflections.</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>PS. It took me less time than I would expect to spend organising things at trhe camera stage :-)</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>I wasn't happy with the top reflection so went back for another go :-)</p><div></div>