htarragon Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 <p>I have a K10D and an AF540GZ as well as the Vivitar 283. How would I get the 283 to fire off-camera in conjunction with the 540? I'm thinking portraits. This is hypothetical since I have no studio and no models. I prefer outdoor shots, anyway.<br> Any advice, thoughts?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_sunley Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 <p>An optical trigger and use both your 540 and the 283 in manual mode.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_noble Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 <p>I use a cheap radio trigger.</p> <p>Paul Noble</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trw Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 <p>Optical trigger on the 283, 540 in slave flash mode, really cheap flash with a couple layers of unexposed but developed slide film over the lens on camera as a trigger, or use cheap radio slaves, both flashes in manual mode. I use Yongnuo YN-16's on my sunpak flashes, but that model is discontinued. </p> <p>Strobist <a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html">Lighting 101</a> is a good series of articles to get you started.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc2imaging Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 <p> <p>If the 540 is in P-TTL, the pre-flash might fool an optical trigger.</p> <p>Typically, when I'm running a 540 and an off camera flash, I have the 540 on a stroboframe. My radio trigger piggybacks on my hotshoe adapter F.</p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htarragon Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 <p>OK, I'm a little confused. The 540 works in wireless mode, why do I need a an optical or radio slave for it? The 283 would need an optical adapter. What am I missing?<br> Trent - exposed film over camera lens? - I don't get it. I'll take a further look at Strobist, soon.</p> <p>Thanks guys.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trw Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 <p>The 540 needs to be in manual slave (S2) mode, not wireless mode, otherwise it's pre-flash will trigger the 283 a split second before the shutter opens.</p> <p>You can not reliably mix P-TTL flashes (the 540 on camera or in wireless mode) with manual flashes (your 283, 540 in slave (S2) mode, monoblocs, etc).</p> <p>The slide film goes over the lens of the cheap flash (I used to use a Canon Speedlite 133a), not the camera lens. This way the flash emits only infrared, which triggers the slave flashes (540 and 283 in your case), but does not effect the image.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewg_ny Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 <p>You'd be using the 540 in non-PTTL mode, either Auto or Manual. Neither flash nor camera would not be in 'wireless' mode either--flash would just be 'On'.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htarragon Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 <p>It sounds as if radio slaves would be the most logical way to go with this since I don't want to purchase another flash unit. The 540 would be in Auto or Manual mode with receiver attached and the 283 would be in an appropriate setting (trial and error).</p> <p>Andrew - <em>"Neither flash nor camera would <strong>not </strong> be in 'wireless' mode either--flash would just be 'On'.</em> " I assume that last "not" should have been omitted.</p> <p>I guess there's a reason photographers have flashophobia. Well I have lot's of time to figure this out.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarsden Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 <p >The cheapest way for single off camera flash</p> <p >Use the 540 in wireless mode as 'slave'</p> <p >ie the pop up on your k10 as the controller (Set flash to lightening bolt + W ) and popped up. It does not illuminate the scene – only trigger the 540.</p> <p >540 slider on bottom right to mid position (wireless) and the m/c/s button cycle through to slave mode</p> <p >You also have to tell your camera what channel the flash is working on - read the instructions – takes a bit of working out but it does come together really well eventually – (Once I managed to set this I have not taken my 540 flash out of this mode. )</p> <p > </p> <p >2 flashes at the same time may be tricky – you may need an optical trigger on the 283 – however this may get triggered by any pre-flash from the camera that is talking to the 540. The 283 may overhear this conversation and fire off too soon.</p> <p > </p> <p >BUT <em>perhaps</em> in manual slave mode there is no prior chatting between camera and flash – so the 283 will fire at the same time as the 540 and the camera are expecting it. I don't know.</p> <p > </p> <p >You can still keep it cheap if you turn off wireless mode on your camera flash and instead use it in normal flash mode (at low power) simply to trigger optical slaves attached to both 540 and 283. Then though the pop up flash may become part of the lighting set up so you will need to turn it down as low as it will go. Say -3 stops</p> <p > </p> <p >If you get into this stuff I highly recommend Pocket Wizards – they cost a few dollars but are excellent. Then when you are shooting indoor or outdoor portrait your gear just looks great with this funny radio thing stuck in the hot shoe and flashes popping off all over the place.</p> <p > John ;-)</p> <p > </p> <p > </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now