simon_t1 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 <p>What is the best sharpness level should I set on my 50D in order to avoid the possibility of noise after processing.<br /> Thanks to all.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randywilson Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 <p>Set it to do no sharpening at all and do everything in post processing.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_green4 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 shoot with no sharpening, then sharpen in post. shoot RAW, preferable. sharpening does not enable you to avoid noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_dochertaigh1 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I keep my 40D on "5" two clicks above 'normal' I can kick it up a bit PP if needed, but have never had any problems - noise, halo, etc for a stunning sunset or spectacular flower I shoot raw and leave it all for PP. My daily typical shooting is architectural and construction for which jpg serves fine. Trial and error to find best combo for your specific shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_goren Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 <p>Simon,</p> <p>Shoot RAW and set the sharpening to whatever looks closest to the final look you’re going after. RAW images aren’t sharpened. Some RAW converters (such as Canon’s) will use whatever you set in the camera for the default starting point, but all will let you either do no sharpening or go wild with sharpening, and do both on the original data at the moment of capture.</p> <p>The in-camera JPEG preview, which is what the camera displays on the LCD when you review the picture, will have the sharpening applied, which is why it’s a good idea to set the sharpening (and color, white balance, and the rest) to whatever will most closely simulate the final results. It won’t limit you later, but it will make the previews more accurate.</p> <p>Oh — and, in case it isn’t obvious, shoot JPEG when you want to use the picture right out of the camera with minimal or no post-processing. Shoot RAW when you intend to do anything significant in post. Shoot both (simultaneously) when you want to do the former but you’re afraid you’ll need to do the latter.</p> <p>Cheers,</p> <p>b&</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith reeder Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 <blockquote><p>Some RAW converters (such as Canon’s) will use whatever you set in the camera for the default starting point</p></blockquote><p>Actually, unless you convert in DPP (or RIT), it makes absolutely zero difference what in-camera settings are selected - <em>only </em> Canon software can read them. ACR, Lr, Cap One 4, Silypix, Raw Therapee etc... they couldn't care less about in-camera sharpening choices.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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