CPL/ND Filters

[anand_krishnamoorthy]

<p>Hi -- am new to DSLR photography. I own a D5000 with a 18-55 and 55-200mm lenses. I have a tokina circular polarizing filter (52 mm) and I was wondering whether a Nikon filter would make a difference. The dealer tells me that for the lenses that I own, and their quality, buying an expensive Nikon original circular filter (US$87), wouldn't do any major effect. Is that right? If not, should I buy the so-called type-II Nikon filter. What kind of neutral density filter do you recommend?</p>

[hans_janssen]

<p>The kind of density depends of the way you want to use it and which effects you want to create.</p>

[Matthew Brennan]

<p>Anand,</p>

<p>As you are new to D-SLR photography, I suggest you purchase a CPL filter with a 77mm thread and also purchase step down rings to suit the threads on your current kit lenses. Buy doing this you will have one CPL filter which can fit many lenses thus avoiding duplication of filters.</p>

<p>As for CPL type and brand, I have always used the top line HMC Hoya CPL filter, I practice what I preach- just the one 77mm filter and a few step rings to cover over a dozen lenses I use it in conjuction with. The Nikon brand CPL filter is likely to be slightly more robust in construction but I doubt wether you will see any perseptible difference from Hoya to Nikon. Others will chime with thier own CPL preferences and brands too.</p>

<p>ND filter is a slightly different question, in this I believe in the maxim - you get what you pay for. I have never owned a thread on [screw on] ND filter as I utilise the Lee filter system [which is also compatible with the Cokin P filter system] These are sliding front mounted filters - I find Lee to be of excellent quality but they are expensive, however should last a lifetime if cared for well. As Hans points out, the degree od density (number of light stops you wish to drop) depends upon the type of lighting you are dealing with and the eventual effect you are bringing to an image.</p>

<p>Try using the fabulous p.net search engine in the top right of every p.net page, there is bound to be plenty of information and opinion to be found there.</p>

<p> </p>

[jensvind]

<p>Anand.<br>

I use a CPL from Heliopan 77mm because my main lenses are 77mm, but if it is possible to get step down rings to suit your other lenses i think Heliopan or other glass filters wil be best buy.<br>

As for ND you could look for Singh-Ray Vario-ND, also 77mm, it is expensive but you only need one filter and it is great quality.</p>

 

[ShunCheung]

<p>When you have lenses that use 52mm filters, I don't think it is a good idea to buy 77mm filters and use them on a step down ring. First of all 77mm filters are a lot more expensive, and you end up with this bulky and vulnerable huge filter in front of your rather small lenses. It also totally prevents you from using any proper lens hood.</p>

<p>Camera stores make a lot of money selling filters as they have a high profit margain. Anand, you have an unusually honest dealer that does not talk you into spending unnecessary money. You are using some consumer-grade lenses. Don't waste your money on filters that cost 30% to 50% of the value of your lenses.</p>

[Matthew Brennan]

<p>I have to disagree with Shun,</p>

<p>I find it no problem using a larger protruding filter from the front of my 52mm / 67mm thread lenses. I can't ever recall requiring a lens shade / hood for an exposure using a CPL or an ND filter - however, this has been <strong>my experience only</strong> - others may indeed find the need to shade the end of thier lens using a CPL. I have found that lens hoods are a pain in the butt when using a CPL as it restricts your abilty to rotate the filter without constant hood removal and re-fitting.</p>

<p>As for wasting your money - I take a long term viewpoint here. Anand, you say you are new to D-SLR photography - I expect you have moved up to D-SLR from a point & shoot camera or similar?? If so your interest in photogrpahy may well expand, if you have photogrpahic experiences anything like mine over the past 8 years then other bodies and lenses come along the way. I don't ever regret purchasing a reasonable quality CPL back when I was shotting with a D70 and 18-70mm lens kit - I'm still using the very same 77mm CPL to this day - filters will only ever become more and more expensive, my CPL costs a good deal more today than back when I purchased it. I can't see what bearing $$ value of your lenses bodies might have on your decision to purchase a good filter. A well thought out purchase today will re-pay itself well into the future.</p>

[Two23]

<p>I always use a lenshood. It does indeed help prevent flare in daytime shots, and also is a big help in protecting the lens. The main difference between the polarizer you have and the NIkon is the Nikon has multi-coating. This can help get better color. You can save some money on multi-coated filters by buying a 52mm Hoya SMC or HD filter. I would not put a 77mm filter on your lenses, mainly because of the lens hood issue but also because it would make the lens bulky.<br>

Kent in SD</p>

[anand_krishnamoorthy]

<p>guys -- thanks for all the comments. my concern with the 77 mm filters is exactly this. the step down rings are making this big object in front of the camera and that makes handling pretty difficult for a novice, amateur guy like me. that's why, i asked about a 52mm. so do i take from all the messages above that the Nikon 52mm filter is not worth spending the money on, as Shaun says. </p>

[jose_angel]

<p>I can tell you about my experience. I have a shoe box full of filters Actually a <em>boot box</em>), different sizes, almost all Nikon and B&W, several resin square ones (Cokin and Kodak), bought throughout the years.</p>

<p>Polarizers?<br /> When the standard thread was 52-62-72, I bought the best&most expensive polarizer in 72mm. After that, I bought the same in 52mm because I used to use 62mm and 72mm thread lenses way less than the 52mm ones.</p>

<p>Few years later I switched to circular polarizers, and decided to buy the size I use mostly, as it was 62-67-72, I bought the best, most expensive 72mm one.</p>

<p>Then, I started to buy "modern" pro-zooms... I started to buy 77mm filters. After that, I switched to the "thin" multicoated versions. Now I regret from this because I still didn`t found a working cap for them.</p>

<p>All this only with polarizers and for Nikon (D)SLRs. The story with coloured filters is way longer.</p>

<p>Conclusion: my filter buying policy is now to buy only the filters I know I will <em>use</em> in accordance with the quality and size of the lenses I currently have. If you spend 300EUR on a lens I`d not buy a 180EUR polarizer. If you buy a 1600EUR lens, add 180EUR on a good polarizer.</p>

<p>If you have two 52mm lenses and don`t plan to buy another lens <em>soon</em>, I`d buy a 52mm filter. If you buy a 180EUR polarizer, perhaps you will notice in the future that it don`t work for you, perhaps because you prefer another type, or brand, or size, or colour dominant, or coatings, or whatever.</p>

<p>About ND filters, I like to use a 8X version (Nikon). This one let me shoot 3 stops wider aperture. It could be interesting if you want to shoot at wider apertures under full brightness with some cameras. If your camera works at 100ISO, 1/8000sec. and your lens is not f2.8 or faster, you`ll not find many opportunities of using it (unless you were looking for somekind of motion blur).</p>

[dan_south]

<p>I've used good polarizers from Singh-Ray, B+W, and the Moose Peterson filter that (I think) was made by Tiffen. I also use the Lee circular polarizer for my Lee filter holder (requires an optional ring to mount it). All of these are excellent filters, and no one is better than any other.</p>

<p>As for ND filters, do you want to use GRADUATED ND filters of solid ND filters (the latter slow your shutter speed; the former balance light and dark portions of the scene that you're trying to capture). Graduated ND filters will be very difficult to use unless the D5000 has a Depth Or Field preview button. (Does it?) Explanation: The aperture must be closed down to its shooting position before you line up the filter, or the effect will not be lined up where you want to see it.</p>

<p>I use Singh-Ray graduated ND filters. I used to use Lee grad ND's, but they turned my skies artificially orange. If you like artificial colors, buy Lee. If you like natural colors, buy Singh-Ray. If your camera has no DOF preview, buy NEITHER unless you plan to shoot, correct, and shoot again every time you use them. Better to go the HDR route in this case.</p>