Superzoom to replace 2 lenses for Antarctica trip

[rich_b1]

<p>I am an amateur and shoot with amateur equipment and have an already ancient Canon Rebel XT, Canon EFS 10-22, 18-75 IS & EF 75-300 IS (first generation) lenses. While I haven't spent the $$$ for "L" lenses, I've always been a bit nervous about third party glass and have only Canon lenses.<br /> <br /> Am very fortunate to be traveling to Iguaza Falls and then Antarctica on a cruise (not photocruise) in December, and am trying to minimize the kit I carry. I probably won't have time to be switching out lenses all the time & most likely would find it clumsy to do so with a parka on anyway, so am thinking of bringing my 10-22 and getting one of the newer superzooms like the Tamron 18-270 or 18-250 to replace the existing 18-75 & 75-300. While I know the superzooms are not rated highly, will I lose much over what I have, since they're not the best lenses going anyway?<br /> <br /> Any experience & advice, especially from those that have been there &/or have used these lenses would be greatly appreciated. Any other lens suggestions that don't have a red band & contain the letter "L" in them?</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

[louie]

<p>I was in Antarctica a number of years back, and found that I stayed mostly in the 100-300 range while shooting wildlife onshore, switching occasionally to 28-64 for landscapes. I had a 10D with 70-200 f/4 and 17-40 f/4.</p>

<p>You don't need a lot of reach. Antarctica is one of the few places where you can do wide angle wildlife photography. Changing lenses isnt that big a deal. At least on my trip with Quark Expeditions, on landings we were left to our own devices. They'll pick a landing site, and the guides would be available, but you're allowed to wander around and explore. So, I never felt rushed changing lenses. The difficulties you may face would be during zodiac cruises, but you could just stick with one lens.</p>

<p>Honestly, I think you ought to think about a second body instead of changing your lenses. If something goes wrong with your rebel, you're out of luck. I'd strongly suggest a back up body - just get something used for cheap. You could even mount a lens on each, and then you wouldn't have to worry about changing lenses.</p>

 

[poulbh]

<p>For the "artsy photos", bring your lenses with you on the ship and decide before every trip onshore what kind of photos you'll take, taking into consideration the nature of the trip: penguins, ice , volcano etc. and take the lens you need for that.<br>

If you want to take other types of photos just for showing people at home, or internet, bring a quality poin&shoot like an Ixus.</p>

[angel_bocanegra]

<p>I have a suggestion, buy a cheap fully mechanical rangefinder camera. Depending on the weather you may find that your digital equipment fails in extreme temperatures. Get a cheap voigtlander, a manual 50mm fast lens, some film and you have insurance there.</p>

[rich_b1]

<p>"I think you ought to think about a second body instead of changing your lenses."</p>

<p>"Depending on the weather you may find that your digital equipment fails in extreme temperatures. Get a cheap voigtlander, a manual 50mm fast lens, some film and you have insurance there."</p>

<p>Thanks for your responses, but so much for traveling light!</p>

<p>The temperatures in December shouldn't be extreme as it is their summer. Actually gets up as high as the mid 40's F (6-9 C) so I hope that it won't be that much colder than that. I do plan on carrying a pocket digital camera, so all will not be lost, and hopefully no blizzards so I can keep everything reasonably warm (including myself) under my coat to take out when I need to. I'd like decent shots, but as said, am an amateur and won't be making big blow-ups or publishing. If they both crap out, I'll be satisfied with my memories.</p>

<p>Louie, thanks so much for sharing your experience. This is not a Quark, but Hurtegruten trip, but hopefully I'll also not feel rushed in seeing the amazing sights and maybe coming home with a few photographic memories. In your answer and some others I've gotten elsewhere, I've confirmed my belief in the focal length choice and am trying to confirm my belief that I'm not giving up IQ by getting the Tamron vs. using my 17-85 plus 75-300, neither of which is a great lens, especially at the 300mm extreme.</p>

[steven_f1]

<p>I have used my camera in winter weather down to about 20F and in the summer in the southwest where temperatures in July are often +100F. No problems. The things I would worry about are Rain and condensation.</p>

<p>If your camera gets wet from rain or snow it could fail. Remember your camera is not water proof. In cold weather when it isn't raining or snowing it should work fine. However before you take it inside a warm building, seal it in a zip lock bag. If you don't use a zip lock bag water will condense on the cold camera and damage it. Keep it in the zip lock bag until it warms up to room temperature. When you are on a small boat I would keep the camera in a water proof bag until you land. </p>

<p>A super zoom will work but you will loose some image quality. Only you will know if that is acceptable. My preference is just to use the lenses you have. If you know what you are likely to be taking a picture of just bring the lens that will do the job. If you don't have a wide angle lens with you, you can still get the shot by taking two or more photos and stitch them together with software. </p>

<p>I have 5 lenses and sometimes I just bring one. Most of the time I bring 2 or 3. Changing lenses is not a big deal for me. I have found it convenient to carry my 70-200 in a pouch attached to my belt. That way I don't have to stop and remove my backpack to change lenses. </p>

[kari v]

<p>I don't think you'll lose much with a superzoom. Tamron 18-270 VC looks like a nice lens and while the performance may be a bit uneven so it is with 17-85 and 75-300. Find a store that let's you test drive a bit.<br>

You don't have to be nervous about third party lenses, there are some very sweet price/performance ones and some are just different from anything Canon has to offer.</p>

<p>Then again changing lenses in calm weather and 6-9C is still very much doable and those zooms you already have are not monstrous in size or weight.</p>

[tdigi]

<p>I say do what would make the trip most enjoyable. If changing lenses is a burden for you use a superzoom. Outdoors it should do ok. If you enjoy the photography as part of the trip then you may regret not having the best available tool. I was in Galapagos and I stressed over taking my 70-200 2.8 ( I was going to use only a 24-105 on a 5D2 ). In the end I took it and if I did not I would have regretted it since most of my shots where with that lens.<br>

On the other hand I am a big fan of traveling light. Many times I will take just a prime lens with me.<br>

Enjoy the trip, it sounds amazing.</p>

[RickDB]

<p>I bought my first DSLR for a trip to Antarctica - a 20D with 10-22, 17-85 IS and 70-300 DO IS. The 10-22 is great for the scenery - especially in the confined Lamaire Channel (Kodak Alley). In the zodiacs the 17-85 was great for the views but the 70-300 was better for the wildlife - I never seemed to have the right lens on. Changing lenses in a zodiac is not recommended (watch out for salt water spray!). So I think your idea to take a superzoom would be an excellent choice - some sort of IS is a must since the weather can be quite overcast and dull and the superzooms do not have large apertures. Don't forget a spare battery or two and plastic bags to allow your gear to warm up without condensation - have a great trip!</p>

[tdigi]

<p>1 thing that worked out great on the zodiacs is a Kayak bag. I would slip my camera in one to avoid spray.</p>

[yakim_peled1]

<p dir="ltr">Minimize the load? Replace your 17-85 IS with 50/1.8. Replace the 70-300 IS for 55-250 IS. And stop right there. No hyperzoom or anything like that. Maybe add a CPL. </p>

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

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<p dir="ltr">Happy shooting,</p>

<p dir="ltr">Yakim.</p>

[ben_goren]

<p>Rich,<p>

 

<p>I’ve come to the conclusion that there almost certainly isn’t a purpose served by

a superzoom on a DSLR that couldn’t be better served by a high-end point-and-shoot

camera with a superzoom. Every argument I’ve ever heard for a superzoom (convenience,

not having to carry extra equipment, space considerations, <i>etc.</i>) applies even more towards a

P&S. And the downsides of a superzoom (comparatively poor image quality, slow apertures,

<i>etc.</i>) are the same major downsides of a P&S.</p>

 

<p>It’s also worth noting that P&S cameras for several generations have been capable

of astounding quality as well as enlargements well beyond 8″ × 10″.</p>

 

<p>So if you’re thinking that a superzoom is a good idea and aren’t worried (much)

about its downsides, give a serious look at a P&S. I think you’ll be pleasantly

surprised.</p>

 

<p>Cheers,</p>

 

<p>b&</p>

[arie_vandervelden1]

<p><em>I do plan on carrying a pocket digital camera, so all will not be lost, and hopefully no blizzards so I can keep everything reasonably warm (including myself) under my coat to take out when I need to.</em><br>

I suggest not doing that. Inside your coat is high humidity. Your camera will fog up, I guarantee it<br>

DSLRs don't mind the cold. I've shot all day in -30C with no problems at all. Just let your gear acclimatize to outside conditions and watch for condensation when you head back into your cabin. Bring some ziploc baggies to deal with that.<br>

As for lenses, I think your 17-85 should cover most of your needs. Stick that thing on your camera and the lens changes should be minimal. I suggest having a think about retiring that 75-300 and replacing it with the new EF-S 55-250/4-5.6 IS. The latter lens is quite sharp, very lightweight, and at $300 or less it's very good value.</p>

[louie]

<p>I can't speak to the IQ between the Tamron and the consumer Canon zooms, but I will say that Image Stabilization and fast glass are fairly important, especially when shooting from a zodiac. I had 1-2 sunny days during my 10-day trip to the peninsula and the rest were overcast. I suppose that nowadays it's easy enough to simply pump up the ISO, but still IS is really helpful when shooting from a bobbing zodiac.</p>

<p>I just got back from the Arctic (Svalbard Archipelago), and we had some really cloudy/foggy days where the IS helped a lot.</p>

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[lmwalker]

<p>Yes, all superzooms absolutely suck... <a href="http://www.pbase.com/lmwalker/sigma_hires">http://www.pbase.com/lmwalker/sigma_hires</a></p>