Canon 420EZ flash manual mode

[alex_flynn]

<p>Hi there everybody,<br>

I'm aware that many threads already exist on using a non ETTL flash unit with the more modern DSLRs, but my questions are somewhat more basic. I hope you can help!<br>

Essentially, I have a Canon 20D and I'm thinking about buying a secondhand 420EZ speedlite. I know that I will only be able to use it in manual mode, but what does this mean in practical terms? Is it fairly easy after a while to look at the scene of a potential shot and guess the parameters that need to be configured to gain a correctly exposed shot? And are those parameters easy to input on the flash? I have read that the only options are 'full power' and '1/16'. <br>

My experience of flash is so limited that buying this 420EZ would be really just to have a bit of practice and learn more about flash photography.<br>

Any help would be much appreciated. And by the way, the reason for a 420EZ as opposed to one of the cheaper EXs is of course, budget.<br>

Many thanks<br>

Alex</p>

 

[anov]

<p>I'm not familiar with the 420EZ, I have an old 200E and that thing will not fire at all on my XTi but will fire full power on a 40D. This is not a loose contact thing, that flash just won't fire on the Rebel XTi.<br>

<br />If you're using manual, there's really no reason to stick with Canon. I think you'll be better served with thyristor model such as Vivitar 285HV or Sunpak 383 OTOH older ETTL flash such as 380EX can be had for $75-100, has zoom head, does not swivel though. Once you outgrow it, you can sell it for not much less.<br>

<br />If you're set on the 420EZ, make sure your 20D will trigger it, and then just judge the histogram for proper exposure.</p>

[PuppyDigs]

<p>To use manual power settings, you need to learn how to use guide numbers or use a flash meter. No prob in a studio or with still life, but a pain for moving subjects and snapshots.</p>

<p>The 420EZ was the original "pro" flash that shipped with the EOS 620/650 cameras in 1987. I actually owned one about 20 years ago. It was replaced by the 430EZ in 1989 or 1990. Do you really want the flash older than many of the posters here?</p>

[angel_bocanegra]

<p>you need a flash meter and use the metered output in similar condition.after some use you will kinda know what setting u need for each lighting situation, it will come natural.</p>

[NK Guy]

<p>> Is it fairly easy after a while to look at the scene of a potential shot and guess the parameters that need to be configured to gain a correctly exposed shot?</p>

<p>Yes. You don't really need a flash meter, as you've got a digital camera and thus have a preview screen telling you if your shot worked or not. If you want to go the all-manual approach and are willing to put a little time into things, it's not that difficult to set up a shot and experiment with different flash output settings. To learn more about this approach to flash photography, have a look at strobist.com, the authority on the subject.</p>

<p>>And are those parameters easy to input on the flash? I have read that the only options are 'full power' and '1/16'.</p>

<p>It's easy. Press the MANU button to cycle through the power output settings. It doesn't have only two output options, which would limit your choices badly. It can go from full power to 1/32 power in 6 steps. A manual for this flash unit is available at orphancameras.com.</p>

<p>I don't know if the 420EZ is the best choice for off-camera manual flash, but it's fine. Especially if you get one for cheap.</p>

[swenson]

<p>I have 20D and the 420EZ that I bought years ago for my Elan II and it was inexpensive then. I think that I paid $75 for mine. As others have mentioned there's a half dozen steps from 1/1 - 1/32. The only time that I use 1/1 full power is lin large room bounced off ceiling.<br>

With a little pratice you generally get it close enought so that if's it off it's not off by too much to fix in PS, especially if you are shooting raw. The histogram also helps a lot.<br>

As other have said the newer flashes are much better but will cost 5-10 times as much and the flash will be worth more than the camera. </p>

[charles_tuthill]

<p>I have a similar flash, the 430ez, which I used quite a bit on my old elan II before using digital slr's. With dslr's it works fairly well as an off camera flash in manual mode (apart from shutting off every few minutes). Use the histogram, and "chimp" as necessary. However, I do not like using it on camera - it is a real pain to consistently judge (well, guess) what settings should be used when subject to camera distances change frequently. I've used it on a 10d a few times like this, and though many shots certainly work, there are always too many that do not. I would think that one of the vivitar manual flashes would be easier, as at least there is a calculator dial, but I have no experience with them. Needless to say, I am in the market for a canon 430ex flash. That being said, you probably won't know for sure if it fits your needs until using it on camera a few times, if this is how you intend to use it.</p>

[alex_flynn]

<p>Hi everybody,<br>

Thanks very much for your answers! It's been very helpful. <br>

So, I think that I will go ahead and buy this 420EZ as I feel as though with a little experimentation I'll be able to use it.<br>

Charles, when you mention: 'Use the histogram, and "chimp" as necessary.'... could you expand a little more on how you go through this process? Are you referring to the histogram on the 20D or the histogram post-process? (I use lightroom mainly).</p>

<p>NK Guy thanks for your recommendation as to strobist. I'll be reading up on that!</p>

[charles_tuthill]

<p>When I use the 430ez off camera I normally do not use a flash meter. Determining proper exposure, therefore is a process of trial and error, albeit one which is fairly simple because subject to flash distance does not change all that much. To make sure I am getting an exposure that I am happy with I check the camera's histogram every few shots, to make sure everything is in order. If I need to make an adjustment I make an educated guess, trying out variations of aperture, flash to subject distance, iso or etc. and then rechecking the histogram (this is generally called "chimping"). This works well for stationary subjects where you can take multiple shots and adjust; it doesn't work nearly as well with the flash on the camera in fluid situations - its possible, but I always blow too many shots. Hope this helps. Also, someone recommended the strobist website, which is a great resource. After reading the website all of this will sound very simple, if it does not already. Enjoy your new flash!</p>