Bracketing past -2EV

[jasna_hodzic]

<p>This may sound like a stupid question, but here goes.<br>

I have a Canon EOS 40d, and I'm interested in doing some HDR shots. As I was perusing tutorials etc. I came across the issue of how I can get -3EV since the exposure meter only reads up to -2EV. I experimented and noticed that when i get to -2EV, and change the Shutter speed, aperture, ISO, whatever, to get even more underexposed, it begins to blink. Does a blink mean that I'm at -3EV, and another mean I'm at -4EV? I checked in the manual, all I could find about blinking was that it blinks when it's underexposed/over exposed...but it doesn't blink for me at any time b/w -1EV to -2EV..so I'm quite confused.<br>

Thanks for any responses :)</p>

[bjscharp]

Blinking can also mean you're at the limit of either shutter speed or aperture. For example, the lens is already wide open, and you tell the camera to overexpose (+x EC) while in Tv mode

 

Best way to do large bracketing is to put the camera in Manual mode.

[ian riches]

<p>If you want to dial in one more stop of exposure, then simply count the clicks on the control wheel. Your 40D will be set up for either third or half stop intervals. (See Custom function 1 on page 154 of your manual).</p>

<p>If you are at half stop intervals, each click is half a stop, so two clicks equals one stop. If you are set at third stop intervals, then three clicks equals one stop.</p>

<p>Using AEB (Autoexposure bracketing) is the easiest way fo rme to do HDR. Put camera in AV mode, as you want to shift shutter speed, not aperture, to ensure that all shots have the same depth of field. Select an appropriate manual white balance or shoot RAW and correct later to ensure consistent white balance across the shots. Activate AEB as per page 94 of your manual.</p>

<p>Note: you can get even wider spreads by dialing in some exposure compensation before shooting. If you set up AEB for 2 stop intervals and dial in -2EV of exposure compensation, then it will take shots at -4, -2 and 0. Then dial in +2EV of exposure compensation at shoot again, which will give you 0, +2 and +4 shots. OK, you get the 0 EV shot twice, but it's a lot easier and quicker than doing it all by hand!</p>

[jackaldridge]

<p>Jasna,<br>

I'm not sure what you mean when you say 'it blinks'....if it's the photo you are looking at on the playback screen blinking in certain areas then that means you 'clipped' something with your exposure. It's a warning that no information for that area of the photo is available or recorded.<br>

That's not a problem if you are shooting multiple exposures to combine with software later as long as some of your exposures are good for the area in question.</p>

[peter_popp1]

<p>I think I understand your confusion. The range of "bars" to show how under- or over-exposed you are only goes plus/minus 2 ev. All you need to do is look at the ideal measured exposure for the scene, and then mentally calculate the new shutter speed. For example, if the camera tells you that the ideal exposure is 1/125 at f/5.6, then 1/1000 will be -3 ev and 1/15 will be +3 ev. Don't even look at the blinking bars.<br>

I've recently been doing some HDR experiments, and I've been using the auto bracketing function on my 40D, which has the advantage that you don't touch the camera (if you have a release), but it only does plus/minus 2 ev.</p>

[bill_mussett1]

<p>Peters method is the correct one to capture a wide range of exposures. I've used the same procedure successfully at night with excellent results. The only item I would add is to consider investing in a cable release or use the timer once you start setting shutter speeds slower than 1/focal length. And of course use a tripod.</p>

[jasna_hodzic]

<p>Thanks for the answers, I went ahead and mentally calculated the exposures, but now I have another problem.<br>

Going in to edit the photos, whatever tone-mapping program I try, I find that in almost every photo there is a lot of areas where there are random clusters of pink dots-does anyone know why these appear and how to get rid of them?<br>

Also, does anyone have a good recommendation for a software? I tried Photomatix and the Essential HDR Community but did not really like the results I got with either. <br>

It was my first time shooting HDR, though, so I took the results with a grain of salt. I'm mainly curious about how to remove those pink clusters which I described.<br>

Also, despite the fact that I used a tripod and the timer (I don't have a shutter release cable) many of the final HDR products are rather blurry-I suppose this is my error in somehow moving the camera when taking the shots.</p>

[bill_mussett1]

<p>The pink dots could be either hot pixels due to a very long exposure or chrominance noise due to a very high ISO setting. Post a photo with the pink dots.</p>

<p>As long as the camera was not moved, focus was not changed and you used Peters method above, there should not be any blurred areas unless the blurring was due to movement by your subject.</p>