alessandro.vasapolli Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>Hi all,<br> I've always shot digital and this is the first time that I meet film, so please, if I say something really stupid is just because I still don't know very much about film photography...thank you...Few weeks ago I bought, for what I thought to be a reasonable price, a Mamiya RZ67 Pro with 110mm normal lens. It's been my first time with film in all my life and it has been a fantastic experience!<br> The biggest problem I encoutered while shooting was how to get a proper reading of the light. Since I still do not own an external lightmeter I took my 5DmkII and used it as a meter... Anyway, as you can imagine, it was not really comfortable going around with two camera, one just for an approximately reading. So, because I decided that I'm gonna be very serious about MF, I decided to buy something proper.<br> I saw that there are some metered prism (on ebay about 250€) for the RZ67 that give different readings and give you the opportunity to switch to AE. On the other hand, my first thought was to buy an external lightmeter, but actually I really don't know what to buy. I also really like to use the waist level finder and I don't think I would really love to put a prism on top of my camera and use it as a kind of big normal 35mm reflex.<br> What do you suggest!?<br> Right now, if I had to choose, I would go for the external lightmeter even if, probably, you waste more time taking readings. But I guess it is much more precise than the metered prism.</p> <p>Just a few things I think you should know to give me an advice for buying a meter...<br> 85% of the time I shoot model in studio/location for fashion.<br /> 10% of the time I shoot animals in the wild (I think if anybody as ever done it with MF but I don't wanna go off topic)<br /> 5% of my time I shoot landscapes.<br> I really use a lot digital, so I would really like to have a lightmeter that will be good for both digital/film.<br> I would like to have something that will work with studio flash (I have some 40 years old bowens monolite...) and it would be great if the lightmeter could fire the flash without any cable (do I need to attach a Pocket Wizard to the meter or what?)<br> I prefer to spend quite a lot of money just once and have the best out there then buying something good today for then switching for the best tomorrow.</p> <p>Thank you a lot for having read all this stuff! Really, thank you...</p> <p>Alessandro</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlwakefield Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>Hello Alessandro, I also recently purchased a RZ67 pro and have both waist level and prism view finder. I started off taking my 5D as a sort of poloriod. I thought like you and I purchased the Sekonic L-758DR this is a super light meter but expensive. It has biult in part that allows you to fire pocket wizards. I have used it with mine it works perfectly. Also with a pocket wizard attached to the Rz67 fires you flashes. I have not got your experiance but I have shot approx 20 rolls of 120 now and use the sekonic and it give me good exsposures. It takes a little practice with the spot reader at first but now I feel comfortable with out having to take a digital and love the waist view finder. The prisum finder is good when you have to get the camera up high on the tripod and is better for sharper focus but the focusing is also a bit of practice.<br> I would recommend the Sekonic model I have as it was designed to be profiled with digital gear as well. It works with pocket wizards, has a normal flash mode waiting for flash and works when cabled. It has a memory function and can suggest midtones. You will find in difficult lighting you will start using it with your digital gear as well.<br> The cheap solution would be a longer lens on another camera I have an FM2 this is good with a 135mm lens But to just take the Mamiya and the light meter gives you a good feeling when your photos work out. You can test your filters with the spot meter to work out exactly how much time light to calculate with each filter. <br> Regards Carl</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilkka Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>I would really suggest a fairly simple incident light meter, like a Sekonic 308. It does all you really need in a small, reliable and reasonably priced package. But if you are serious about buying a more versatile meter then consider something like the Sekonic 758. Spot metering can be useful especially for landscapes. Older versions of similar meters are available second hand.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_henderson Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>I have two medium format systems and have always found it much more convenient to use a handheld meter than a prism or in-camera meter- which I have for both my systems but don't use.. Partly this is because MF in camera metering tends to be a little inflexible and primitive, mostly because I tend to compose a shot first and don't like to move the camera around on a tripod to try and get the sense of variation in light across my scene. </p> <p>From what you've said the combination of a flashmeter, incident meter and one degree spotmeter seems pretty much ideal and the latest incarnation of this in the Sekonic range is indeed the 758. The essence of this meter exists in various model types over the last ten years , some of which might be available used. These include the 508, the 558, the 608 at least that all have the features I mention, though you'd need to check which of these will fire the flash remotely- I never use flash so I've never looked at this. </p> <p>My experience with a wide receptor reflected light meter such as the Sekonic 308 was short and unsatisfactory. I just like to know where I'm getting the reading from and I'd guess that if you are photographing wildlike, so will you. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stwrtertbsratbs5 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>"I also really like to use the waist level finder and I don't think I would really love to put a prism on top of my camera and use it as a kind of big normal 35mm reflex."</p> <p>You definately should get a hand-held meter. The Sekonic 358 is excellent if you want to meter flash and you use Pocket Wizards. There is a separate spot attachment available, but it's expensive. So if you need spot metering, then get Sekonic L-758 or buy a standalone spot meter.</p> <p>The Pentax Digital Spot Meter is my favorite meter because it's rugged and so simple to use. That would be an excellent choice if you don't need flash or incident light metering.</p> <p>Here's a nice comparison of the Pentax and a Sekonic:L-508:</p> <p>http://www.butzi.net/reviews/light_meters.htm</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alessandro.vasapolli Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>Hi,<br> thank you all for your kind replies!<br> Ok, I'm definately going for and external meter, I guess the 758, so that I can have an "all in one" meter and what I understood should be the best one.<br> I took a look around and I found that there are different version of the 758, one is the 758C and the other one is the 758D. I didn't actually understood if the 758DR is the same 758D or is something different. I guess the C stands for Cinema and so I should go for the D (digital) version but I just wanted to have a confirm from you....<br> "It works with pocket wizards, has a normal flash mode waiting for flash and works when cabled."<br> I didn't know about the "normal flash mode", does it mean that I leave the meter in position, fire the flash with my pocketwizard and it will get the right exposure without being syncronized with the flash?!</p> <p>Thank you a lot!</p> <p>Alessandro</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_henderson Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>Seems to me that the D and the DR are different and that they are both different from the C. You need to read the specs on the Sekonic website. I've just used <a href="http://www.sekonic.co.uk">www.sekonic.co.uk</a> and it has a spec for each meter.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlwakefield Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>Mine in the DR. With the normal flash mode (waiting for flash you can lay the meter next to the subject, you press the metering button and it waits you then fire your flashes and it gives you back a Fstop time reading you can roll the wheel to find the combination that suits your need. Change ISO ect. The reading changes accordingly. Its handy if you want to set a your flash power move it in or out. With the pocket wizard mode. I put it on a stand where the subject is and fire a pocket wizard and then get the reading. then you can adjust the power of your lights or move them in or out. You will be able to set the ratio between you lights perfectly. I think the spot metering is a must for landscapes. you can clearly sometimes hold it above your head and your in the same light as your scene but sometimes your in shadows or you scene is a mix of shadows and lights. with the spot meter you get the lightest part of the sky and the dark shadow areas you can work out the total range and reduce to by one two or more stops with your NDs and you get the middle tones with grass or concrete and from an incedent measurement. You can shot a bright area with and without a filter infront of the spot reader and you get the exact measurement of the filters. I think the more information the better your choices are. The 758DR model is expensive but I think it will prove its worth.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golden Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>I use a pentax spot meter, very accurate, i had a prism for my rb but it wasnt accurate enough to me. good for quick shots though. good luck</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>An incident meter with flash capability is almost essential in a studio environment. You can get it right the first time, rather than endless test shots with a DSLR. The Sekonic 308 is an good, inexpensive choice. If you shoot landscapes and architecture, then a spot meter function is very useful (e.g., Sekonic 558). The 558 can trigger strobes with a built-in Pocketwizard transmitter, or coupled to an external transmitter via a PC cable.</p> <p>A prism gives you a clear view from corner to corner in any kind of light, unlike a waist-level finder which is hard to use in very dim or very bright light. A metered prism compensates for filters (e.g., polarizers) and extension tubes, but only for continuous light. I have a metered 205TCC, but nearly always use an hand-held meter even for closeups, usually as an incident meter. I wouldn't leave home without the 45 degree prism (along with a WLF in case I encounter an awkward angle or need twice the magnification).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_neuthaler Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 <p>Sekonic L308B is my meter (I forget what the "B" is for). It's easy & it works great. I've had it for 4 years & use it with my Hassies & old "M" Leicas.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 <p>Agree with the Sekonic suggestions. Have a 508, which doesn't have the pocket wizard functions. But, in my case, I don't need that capability. They are great meters. So much in fact that for my Rb and 645 Pro, didn't think the metered prisms would be needed.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alessandro.vasapolli Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 <p>Hi all!<br> Thank you so much for your replies...<br> I found out, looking around in internet, that is possible to attach a wireless transmitter to the 758D, right?! Would it be the same if I buy the 758D and then attach this module or if I buy the 758DR?<br /> Because I cannot find a good price for the 758DR like the ones I found for the 758D.<br> Thank you so much!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markbristol Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 <p>Here is a different perspective. Handheld meter is essential for studio work. For outdoor work the AE finder is essential. I have been using the RZ for about a decade now mostly for landscape and occasionally for wildlife. When the sweet light comes you do not want to take the time to figure out exposure. An AE finder on cw works perfectly for this. Proper use of nd grads will bring all highlights and shadows into the exposure range of velvia and other chromes. This allows you to work very quickly when the light is perfect and fleeting. I occasionally do protrait work for friends and this is when I use an incident meter. If you can afford it get both AE finder and handheld meter.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfcole Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 <p>What about a Sekonic 558? It'll be less expensive than the 758. I got a 558 at KEH and pretty happy with it. It's great having a spot meter built in. The only think I don't like is that it doesn't fit in my pants pocket. And it can be calibrated to anything else. Personally I wouldn't trust my DSLR as a meter because it underexposes relative to film.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 <p>For studio work I use a Gossen VarioSix F incident meter which can measure both ambient and flash. For landscape etc. I use a Minolta Spotmeter F which can also measure flash. Your best bet would probably be the Sekonic 758 which is a combined 1 degree spotmeter and incident meter.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alessandro.vasapolli Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 <p>Thank you for your kind replies!<br> Anybody knows if there are any othere difference (apart from the wireless module) between the 758D and the 75DR?! Would it be te same buying the 758D plus module or the 758DR?<br> <br /> Thank you</p> <p>Alessandro</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35mmdelux Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I really like the Sekonic L-358 Flashmaster Ive used a few years now. After all the gear Ive purchased, the Sekonic L-358 remains one of my favored buys. I know its a great buy when it stays in my possession year after year. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_neuthaler Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 <p>Paul A., you're right-on.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispin_solidox Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 <p>I think you should enjoy the modularity of your setup. Very similar to you, I have a Hassy that I don't like to use with the prism on. But depending on your shooting, sometimes you need the better framing it offers you and the fast metering an incident meter cannot provide. So it's a good accesory to own. Hence, I have this setup:</p> <p>a prism for easier framing that rarely gets used, I sometimes bring it along in the backpack.<br> a metering winding knob for easy to read situations, it's fast and always on. also my main meter.<br> a handheld meter with all the bells and whistels (incident, spot, averaging, highlights/shadows, memory, etc) for difficult scenes, that I keep in my pack. It's big and inconvenient but it's useful.</p> <p>So I guess what I'm saying is get them all and use them accordingly. And if you do get a metered prism you can get a cheap reliable incident meter like the Gossen 308 and you are covered.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alessandro.vasapolli Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 <p>Thank you for all the useful advice, but nobody answered my question regarding the 758DR/D.<br> Is it the same to purchase the 758DR or the 758D and later adding the wireless module?!<br> Thank you very much!<br> Crispin Solidox, I'm completely new to external lightmeter so maybe I'm gonna ask something stupid, but, when you say that your metering winding knob is always on, you mean that there are no batteries?!<br /> What is exactly a winding knob?! The models with le needle?!</p> <p>Thank you so much!</p> <p><br /> Alessandro</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispin_solidox Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 <p>Yup, it's this one http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/images/Hasselblad/Finders/HassMeterWinder-a.jpg<br> It replaces the normal winding knob ( http://neuveterre09.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/hasselblad-500-bis.jpg ) on the Hasselblad (500, 501, 503, etc) that does absolutelly nothing except wind film. It has no batteries so it's always on, and it's pretty good. It's also on the right side right where you set the EV exposure on the lens, it's pretty handy.<br> I don't know if such a thing exists for the RZ but you could get a hotshue model http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=workaround.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=355975&is=REG<br> It's not as straight forward as the EV system winding knob but it's tiny and accurate.</p> <p>If you have any more questions, feel free.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alessandro.vasapolli Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 <p>Hi!<br /> Thank you for your answer...<br> The model you suggested does you battery! Right?<br> How can a meter work without energy at all?<br> Is there anything like an handheld flash meter that does not require battery and it's good?! (just in case the electronic one doesn't work...)</p> <p>Thank you a lot!</p> <p><br /> Alessandro</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispin_solidox Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 <p>The Voightlander hot-shoe that I suggested uses batteries. The one I have for my Hasselblad doesn't.<br> There are lots of analog handheld meters that don't use batteries.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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