Yashica MAT 124 G close-up lens

[fernando_garcia4]

<p>Hi,<br>

I've just bought (in ebay) a Yashica MAT 124 G. I've spent a few rolls, and It works nice.<br>

I'm thinking to get a close-up lens set, to take <strong>portraits</strong> and <strong>half portraits</strong>.<br>

The camera has a 80 mm taking lens, but I've a doubt: ¿Which is the better choice for portraits: close-up lens +1 or close-up lens +2?.<br>

Information in the dealer site is as follow:<br>

"<strong> +1 is good for 24-36 inches distance, +2 is good for 18-24 inches".</strong><br>

but I don't know what I must buy.<br>

I would aprecciate your help.<br>

Thanks a lot.<br>

Fernando<br>

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[John Seaman]

<p>Fernando I think the +1 would be the better choice, although even with this you would be working very close to the subject with the risk of distorting the perspective. You can just use the camera without the close up lens and crop the negative as required, it should be big enough.<br>

An alternative might be to get hold of a telephoto attachment, this is a supplementary lens which fits over the taking lens, with another one on the viewing lens, effectively increasing the focal length and enabling you to work at a more comfortable distance. They have the reputation of reducung the image quality though.</p>

[fernando_garcia4]

<p>Thanks a lot, John,<br>

Do you have any experience with close-up lens? I never used it.<br>

It is just effective in the range of (for instance, +1) 24-36 inches?</p>

<p>Best regards.</p>

 

[paulh]

<p>I've got a +1 that I've used with some success for taking portrait shots on my YashicaMat LM.</p>

<p>I'd strongly recommend that over the telephoto attachment (at least based upon my experience with the telephoto attachements).</p>

[bueh]

<p>If quality close-ups are your goal, you might consider switching to a Mamiya C-series TLR. Like their 6x7 SLRs it has bellows focusing which gets you a a very close minimum focus distance. The interchangeable lenses are also nice.</p>

[roelof_lucas]

<p>The bay I rolleinar from Rolleiflex will also fit. For portraits +1, +2 and +3 are more for close up/ macro work. </p>

[fernando_garcia4]

<p>Hi,<br>

I've looked for telephoto attachements for weeks, in CE, but I haven't found it. Just in USA, and the seller doesn't ship to Europe<br>

I have already decided. I'm going to buy a close-up lens set #1. I hope to be lucky and not to waste my money.<br>

When I use my Yashica, I measure light with an old Gossen exposimeter. Do you know if I must to do corrections when I will use the close-up lens?.<br>

Thanks a lot.<br>

Fernando</p>

<p> </p>

[John Seaman]

<p>Fernando I've only a little experience with the close up lenses, mine is actually a Rolleinar 2, and I've used it for flowers etc rather than people - the quality is fine. You should be aware that the Rollienar comes in two parts, one for the taking lens and another for the viewing lens. The part for the viewing lens has a wedge shaped optical element which corrects the viewing angle so that you see more or less what will be on the film. Otherwise your would have problems with parallax error since the distance between the lenses becomes significant at short distances. I don't know whether the equipment you are looking at has this feature.<br>

Close up lenses do not affect the exposure settings so the readings from your meter should be fine.</p>

[fernando_garcia4]

<p>Hi, John,<br>

The dealer site says:<br>

<strong>For Yashica TLR, Rolleiflex & Rolleicord Bayonet I cameras (Same as B-30). Includes two lenses, one for viewing and one for taking. Parallax corrected.</strong> <br>

<strong><strong>My camera has taking lens and viewing lens, too. I think you are talking about this feature. ¿is it right?</strong> </strong> <br>

<strong><strong>Thanks a lot</strong> </strong> <br>

<strong><strong>(sorry by the bold. I don't know what I've done).<br /> </strong> </strong> </p>

[juan_mcmahon]

<p>Hola Fernando:<br />Supongo que por tu nombre y apellido, debes hablar en castellano, asi que como me siento mas comodo con mi idioma natal, te contesto en el. Para los demas traduzco luego.<br />Como te dijeron antes, las lentillas de aproximación o close up de Rollei (se llaman Rolleinar) Bayoneta 1 (Bay 1) encajan perfectamente en la Yashica Mat 124G.<br />Yo tengo las tres existentes (Rolleinar #1, #2 y #3) y para retratos, coincido con que la mejor es la #1. La #2 es practica, pero no ideal y la #3 sencillamente no sirve para retratos.<br />El Tele de Yashica es una basura, igual que el gran angular. Viñetean mal y arruinan la buena perfomance del Yashinon. Para lo unico que sirven es para coleccionar ... Los mios estan en un cajón y jamas los llevo conmigo.<br />Tengo entendido que los lentes de close up de Yashica no son tan buenos y, como creo que la diferencia de precio no es importante, sugiero que te inclines por los de Rollei.<br />Efectivamente, en cada juego de Rolleinar, en principio, vienen dos lentes, uno para el lente de toma (finito) y otro para el lente del visor (mas grueso, con corrección para el paralaje). Sin embargo, las versiones mas viejas de los Rolleinar vienen compuestas de tres lentes, dos iguales, finitas, que se colocan en cada uno de los lentes de la maquina y el grueso, que es igual al que anteriormente mencioné, pero sin aumento, que tambien se coloca en el lente del visor, encima del finito.<br />Suerte!</p>

<p><em>Hi Fernando:</em><br /><em>I guess, for your name, that you speak spanish like me, so I prefer to write in my native language and translate to english for the rest.</em><br /><em>As they told you before, the Rollei Bay 1 close up lenses (Rolleinar) fits perfectly in your Yashica Mat 124G.</em><br /><em>I have the three ones, #1, #2 and #3, and for portraits I found that the #1 is ideal. The #2 is practical but not ideal and #3 simply doesn't work for portraits.</em><br /><em>The Yashica Telephoto is garbage, as the Wide Angle. It vignettes (is this the right word?) a lot and ruin the fine perfomance of the Yashinon. Mines are always in a box and I never carry them with me.</em><br /><em>I have references that Yashica close up lenses are worst than Rollei's so, since the price difference is not big. I suggest you to get the Rollei ones.</em><br /><em>Finally, Rolleinars came in a two set lenses, one for each lens. But old Rolleinar sets came in a three set lenses, one for the taking lens and the other two for the view lens.</em><br /><em>Good luck!</em></p>

[tim_ludwig2]

<p>Fernado,</p>

<p>Keep in mind that an 80mm lens is "normal" for 6x6 negs or slides and a normal lens often distorts faces in closeup images even without the use of the close up filters. The 80mm is fine for half and full length portraits, but you may be surprised in a bad way by the results in close up portraits. Noses will be huge and ears will be comparatively tiny.</p>

<p>The telephoto attachments do occasionally come up on ebay and they do give rather good results in enlargements up to 16x20 and perhaps a bit larger. The extra focal length they provide gives a much better result for close up portraits as in head shots than either the normal lens or the normal with close up attachments.</p>

<p>The paralax effect that has been mentioned is due to the viewing lens being some distance above the taking lens. In distant subjects (at least several feet away) this has no apparent effect. But, in close ups and again especially with the close up attachments, your image will show a very different field of view than you saw through the viewfinder. To counter this effect, measure the distance between the centers of the viewing and taking lens and then raise the tripod by exactly that same amount. Now, regardless of the distance from camera to subject, you will be shooting exactly the same scene that you viewed while composing.</p>

<p>With the telephoto attachements, this paralax effect is very greatly reduced since the camera will be considerably futher away from the subject.....to the point that you really shouldn't have to worry about resetting the camera's height.</p>

<p>Good luck. The 124G has always been a fine camera and you should get terrific results.</p>

<p>Tim</p>

[juan_mcmahon]

<p><img src="http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/2830/71220007.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/9745/72680003.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Two examples, one with the Yashica Telephoto (at f16) and the other with a Rolleinar #2:</p>

[fernando_garcia4]

<p><em>Hola, John,</em><br>

<em>Muchas gracias por tu respuesta en español!! es maravilloso encontrar a alguien con una lengua en común. Mi español es mucho mejor que mi ingles.</em><br>

Hi, John,<br>

Thanks a lot for your response in spanish!! Is wonderful to find somebody with a languaje in common. My spanish is better than my english<br>

You're right. There is a big difference between Telephoto and close-up lens. I hope to be lucky with my new lens. Finally, I've bought it.<br>

What film are you using with your Rolleinar?<br>

I use HP+<br>

Thanks a lot</p>

<p> </p>

[chrise_boris]

<p>The Rolleinar #2 is a good compromise. The optical quality of the Rolleinar is very good. Keep in mind you need two identical Rolleinars and one Rolleiparkeil. The two Rolleinars go on both the viewing lens and the taking lens. Then the parrallax correcting prism Rolleiparkeil goes on the Rolleinar mounted on the viewing lens.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>One other caveat: Since no exposure compensation is needed when a close-up lens is attached, then the effective focal length of the 80mm lens is actually reduced making it even less suitable as a portrait lens. The effective focal length is determined by the focal length of the close up lens and the camera lens as well as the distance between them. I don't recall the formula at the moment. Still, it would be good for non-portrait close ups. Remember to stop down for better depth of field.</p>

[juan_mcmahon]

<p>Hola Fernando!<br>

Disculpa la demora. La primera foto esta tomada usando un Kodak TMax 100, la segunda, un Ilford 125.<br>

Un abrazo!<br>

Juan<br>

<em>Hi Fernando!</em><br>

<em>The first one I took it with Kodak TMax 100, the second one with an Ilford 125</em></p>

 

[anthony_h.]

<p><em>One other caveat: Since no exposure compensation is needed when a close-up lens is attached, then the effective focal length of the 80mm lens is actually reduced making it even less suitable as a portrait lens.</em> MG</p>

<p>I believe doublers do reduce light and need compensation. Is this not so with Rolleinars whatever their values, set 1, 2 or 3?</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

Anthony,<br><br>Doublers - as in: those things that go between lens and film - do indeed reduce the light level at the film plane. They do that by enlarging the image produced by the lens, i.e. spreading the light that comes out of the lens over a larger area.<br><br>Close-up auxilliary lenses like the Rolleinars or Proxars, that are put on front of the taking lens, reduce the focal length and do not reduce the light level at the film plane.<br>So indeed no compensation (no matter what power).<br><br>Focussing is done (no matter whether doublers, close-up auxilliaries, or nothing extra are/is used) by increasing the distance between lens and film plane. That in itself does reduce the light level at the film plane. Should you rack the lens out to its close focus limit, you may indeed need to adjust exposure a little bit (upto about 0.5 stop, depending on lens and its close focus limit).