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Flash or no flash, that is the question.


david_pessein

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<p>Hello again, I have posted about a similar subject in the past but this differs slightly. I know about dragging the shutter and other tricks for night shots. I rely heavily on my flash, but have been reading some how-to books that have pictures of how the photographer is setting up the various shots and he never has a flash. The books I tend to look at are photojournalistic in their content usually. I guess I want to know what kind of camera settings are best for this kind of shooting and which lens. I shoot with a Fujifilm S5 Pro with a Sigma 24-70mm 1:2.8 EX DG. The lens is pretty fast and I really like shooting with it. Its also built very well. I'm wondering if I need fast primes or just ISO adjustments or camera settings. I hope you guys can help. Thanks in advance, David</p>
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<p>If you understand the concept of exposure then you have the answer. Understand the relationship between ISO, shutter speed, aperture size, depth of field versus aperture and focal length. To get more light into you camera you need a wider aperture, slower shutter speed, or for a similar effect you need to increase the ISO which will add noise to your images. Slower shutter speeds can lead to blurry shots if too slow. Every situation is different, so you need to be able to make a pretty quick judgement of these camera settings on the fly. Another consideration are IS lenses which can help in certain situations (static subjects), but not others (moving subjects).</p>

<p>A few fast prime lenses and a camera with good high ISO performance is the way to go for no-flash shots.</p>

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<p>Flash or no flash isn't really the question. Rather, how do I modify the existing light? Often you need to move the subject to an area where there is good light (how journalistic is that?) then you can employ reflectors, scrims, and/or flash. Here's an excellent resource: <a href="http://www.photovisionvideo.com/store/shop.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code=LLT028&Category_Code=DVD">http://www.photovisionvideo.com/store/shop.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code=LLT028&Category_Code=DVD</a></p>
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<p>I have one camera dedicated to "no flash" at all times. I find it a must for my preferred style of shooting. So bear that in mind with my response.</p>

<p>I would suggest at the least a Nikkor 85/1.4 or with the crop factor of the S5, a Sigma 50/1.4. They are staple to this approach IMO. If you can get a D700 to go with the 85, that woud be sweet too. I use a D700+85/1.4 at every wedding. Often that is the one lens/body combo that does not alter for my second body. I use anything up to and including 6400iso and apertures as open as f1.6 (on the very rare occasion I need to, I will go to f1.4 so that my SS is at least 1/50th).</p>

<p>As for the use of this stuff: Moments are what you want and placing yourself to capture them in a way that is artful (or at least attractive to the viewer).</p>

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<p>Not all no flash images are low light, but a great many of them are, so the 'best settings' include a shutter speed that stops subject motion and camera holding shake. That plus the light level itself also means wide apertures, so fast lenses are always a boon. You will probably find that those photographers who shoot no flash a lot have fast primes, for the above reasons.</p>

<p>While many cameras are now able to produce high quality images at extremely high ISO, there is a limit to how much you can push the envelope before you need to do extra post processing to maintain image quality and integrity. This is why photographers use all of the previous to get their no flash images.</p>

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<p><strong><em>“the photographer is setting up the various shots and he never has a flash . . . I'm wondering if I need fast primes.”</em></strong></p>

<p>IMO you need fast Primes. Whilst F/2.8 is "fast for a zoom": it is not "fast".</p>

<p>You might not always have the use sub F/2.8, but if you don't have it you can't use it when it is necessary<br>

<br />WW</p>

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