keith_baker1 Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 Hi Folks,I'm keen on trying pyro. I went and bought Gordon Hutchings book and some PMK solutions. In my reading I picked up that pyro and the tank/hanger combo may not give even development and staining. I have developed lots of 4x5 in tanks with XTOL without any problems. I would like to know if even staining is possible with pyro and hangers/tanks or whether I should adopt another technique. Please advise. Thanks in advance, Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug_theall2 Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 Keith,Just follow the directions in his book and you should see great results. You couldn't have convinced me that you could sharpen a negative with developer but after trying it I'm a beleiver. This may be one of the last great secrets around. I did two exact back to back shots on a Ilford produced 4x5 negative and the pyro negative was noticably sharper. Go for it.Doug Theall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_krentz Posted August 3, 2002 Share Posted August 3, 2002 I develope Tri-X in PMK,SD-1 and ABC pyro all the time with hangers and a tank I built myself,(much better than tray development)and never have a problem with un-even development, streaking or under-development. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james___ Posted August 3, 2002 Share Posted August 3, 2002 I use tanks to process my 4x5 and 8x10 sheets all the time and have no problems with uneven development. I have never gone back to tray development after the first few tries. To big a hassle. I'm all thumbs and every sheet was scratched no matter how many or few sheets I tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_killian1 Posted August 3, 2002 Share Posted August 3, 2002 I know you specifically asked about hangers, but you may want to try a slosh tray or "cradle". There are other posts in here about them, including links to a site that tells you how to make one, but I just bought one from www.summitek.com and it works very, very well. I am terrible at shuffling and have scratched many a negative. These cradles hold 6 sheets of 4x5 emulsion side up and you lower them into a standard developing tray. The developer flows through holes in the sides and bottom of the cradle - just use your regular agitation cycle. I use PMK exclusively and the result for me has been very even negatives, nice stain and not a single scratch. The device is so simple and fool-proof, I wonder why more people aren't using them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sergio_ortega6 Posted August 3, 2002 Share Posted August 3, 2002 On the road I've often used one of the Combi-Plan daylight tanks that holds up to six sheets of 4x5 and it worked fine; development and staining is very even. Development times can be a bit hard to precisely control with the slow fill and drain times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean_bernard_roux Posted August 6, 2002 Share Posted August 6, 2002 I agree with Sergio. I use a Combi-Pla daylight tank and it works well. 2 advices : 1) despite Combi-Plan can hold 6 sheets, it will be safefull to use it with 4 sheets 2) be aware with filling and draining times which are quite long (between 30 and 45 seconds) Jean-Bernard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_dowdall Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 Hi Keith, I'm new to using pyro myself. I've never tried hangers but used the tray method. New to shuffling, I scratched the film and had uneven development. After posting my problem here I was directed to this site; http://philbard.com/panel.html . Here you will find plans to build a processing panel or as some call it a slosh tray. Since making it I havn't scratched any negs. Or any uneven development. On my panel I made a couple of modifications; 1) Rounded off each of the corners so that it fits my 8X10 tray, 2) Used a thicker peice of plexiglass, 3) Because the plexiglass is thicker and threaded there was no need for the bottom nuts to lock the bolts in place, this cut useing 2 liters of developer for 4 sheats to 1.25 liters with the same results, 4) Used 4 three inch bolts, one in each corner for holders so that the tray can be agitated and lifted out without putting my fingers near the film. I'm very happy with how my negs. come out now. If you go this route please let me know how it turns out. Any improvments you can see would be most welcome. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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