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Camera Paint


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<p>Simple question....I think.</p>

<p>What paint would one use to repaint, mostly touch up, a camera. A good source would also be apreciated it not something normaly found around town. In this case, its a mamiya C330. I have it apart and cleaned up for new leather. Figure I might as well touch up the paint while I am at it. Its not in bad shape at all so mostly a scuffing of the old paint to prep the surface and tape it up. I intend to remove the side panels and back for the job so relatively little surface area being painted...but should do well with the new Leather from CameraLeather.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Jason</p>

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<p>I did a little canonet 28 recently using black appliance epoxy paint from the local hardware store and thought it turned out pretty well. You have to try and get a perfectly even coat the first time or you will have to let it cure, rescuff it and do the whole thing again. It is almost impossible to go back and just spray one area that you missed without getting overspray on the other areas.</p>
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<p>I painted an entire camera with black enamel engine paint (the glossiest you can get). It looked beautiful. I use it to dab on with q-tips too. But only on glossy enamel. On matte bodies like a Leica, I use a dull black pen for handgun touch ups.</p>
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<p>Thanks Andrew,<br>

I was just looking at Brownells. The problem I quickly see is that I am going to have is that any really good finish will need to have the parts taken to the bare metal. I was not looking to do that. Still looking....</p>

<p>Jason</p>

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<p>I've used the enamel paints that you can get at any good hobby/modeling shop. That's those ones that come in the tiny little bottles that kids and "bigger kids" use for car/plane/etc modeling. Don't remember the brand at the moment. I found that sometimes the paint is pretty thick and doesn't blend in real well unless you thin it a little. So I just pick up a bottle of the appropriate thinner as well. It's usually right next to the paint.</p>
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<p>Jason, that was in a spray can, ready to use, there are several different brands, it is basically what you would use to repaint a refrigerator or something like that. I didn't bake it on but I let it cure for a week or so.</p>
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<p>Powder Coating would be the best, practically indestructible, but there again it would require taking it down to bare metal and then baking, so any thing that heat would damage would have to be removed. I understand you can buy small powder coating kits but not sure where off hand.</p>
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<p>Check this article out on Powder Coating. <a href="http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/powder.html">http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/powder.html</a></p>

<p>I read elsewhere that you need a dedicated oven for this. Don't try to cook any food in it after doing this. Also, you need special tape as mentioned if you will be masking off areas, which is a sure bet when doing a camera body. Another critical component required is a small air compressor.</p>

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<p>I would NOT use Rustoleum. It is in no way an industrial paint. It's basically just like any other spray enamel with some zinc added for rust protection. I have used Rustoleum on bicycles and a scooter and the results have been very very dissastifing. While it generally looks OK, areas that are regularily in contact with oils of your hands will not age well. It's also not durable and chips easily, and actually requires more like a week to cure despite the instructions which say 48 hours. In general, I wouldn't use anything that sprays on... as the Mamiya has WAY too many parts that need to be masked/covered. </p>

<p>As mentioned above, the best paints need clean stripped metal. Even rustoleum will not stick to the existing enamel. Using a self-etching primer over the bare metal will give you the best results. You can probably strip the paint off with a gel paint stripper which can be applied with q-tips and removed with q-tips, with light sanding done with steel wool. Many of the gel-based paint removers are non-toxic and biodegradeable. The paint that is on the camera now is some kind of baked on enamel. It is non-purous and other paints will NOT stick to it, no matter how clean it is. </p>

<p>I have not painted a camera yet, but I've painted other things and I can assure you that taking the time to do it right is worth it, otherwise, just use a black magic marker to cover up the shiny spots and leave well enough alone.</p>

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<p>Thanks Patrick,</p>

<p>That was really my question, although I did not ask it correctly. I was really wanting to know if I could paint it with something and have it bond with the current paint. I have thought of the idea of striping it on down to bare metal and doing it right. </p>

<p>If I can find a bead blasting both that I can use I may still do that. I do certainly intend to remove the side panels, Viewfinder, and back for the job. So not as much masking as you may think. I have a friend who has bead blast both that they use for etching and frosting glass. May give them a call. Then again, the bits of paint may be an issue with her material. She does a lot of glass work, includeing stain glass.</p>

<p>I have come to the conclusion that if I do strip it and paint it, it will be with the epoxy paint at Brownells. It sounds like it will do well and does not require baking. there are some things that will not stand the heat, such as light seals that I just installed. And the plastic insert that the film advance crank rest in when folded.</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>Jason</p>

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