NIKON D90 Compatibility with Vivitar 283

[jdwheeler]

<p>I received a D90 package as a retirement gift but can't afford additional accesories at this time. I still have my workhorse Vivitar 283 with a light diffuser I used in my rollfilm days - and would like to use it sparingly for those events that need more power or better light quality than the on camera flash provides. D-90 manual suggests that only Nikon flashes are acceptable for use - due to stray overvoltage and circuitry concerns. Is this likely? Or is it a standard corporate disclaimer? 283 seems unharmful as best. Additionally, looking for tips for achieving results with this non-ttl / non-dedicated unit now that I'm using digital. Would I get my best results going all manual in all settings - just like the good old days? JDW</p>

[g._v.]

<p>The Strobe Trigger Voltage list states that old 283 flashes can have a voltage up to 600V, which is way too high for a D90. Newer 283s? It depends... If I remember correctly modern Nikons can handle up to 250V.</p>

<p>http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html</p>

<p>One option is a Wein Safe-Sync: http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CG1121/</p>

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[john_lynch5]

I have recently done some research on this very subject myself since I recently purchased my first DSLR after years of using film. From what I learned, I won't be using my 283's or 285's on my new camera. The discharge voltage can be high enough to fry the electronics. Some say you can test the voltage and if it is low enough, you can use the old flash. I have too much invested (not near what that D90 costs) that I don't want to take a chance.

[Christopher Sperry Photogr]

<p>I would not even try it once. I have a D80, a Vivitar 283, and a Nikon SB24. My Vivitar 283 will fire using an inexpensive slave sensor, as triggered by the D80's pop-up flash. Your D90 manual should list compatible flash units in the technical notes section. My Nikon SB24 flash is listed as compatible with my D80 when used in non-TTL mode. I would prefer to use a fully functioning flash unit, but I don't use flash much, so I can't justify an SB600, SB800, or now the SB900.<br>

Depending on your flash needs, perhaps a Nikon SB400 flash would get you by. They are pretty reasonably priced. You can read about Nikon flashes at Ken Rockwell's site, considering he likes the SB400.<br>

Chris</p>

 

[btmuir]

<p>A 20 dollar digital multi meter from Radio Shack will put all speculation to rest.</p>

<p>I have 3 Vivitar 383's at the moment. One has 108 volts at the trigger, one has 8.5 and still another has 8.7</p>

<p>It was speculated on the net that country of origin was a good indicator of what voltage ranges were present. Japanese versions being safer than Korean or Chinese maid 283's or something like that I for get exactly.</p>

<p>The ONLY way you will know is to test the one in question it yourself.</p>

[jdwheeler]

<p>Thank you all for the prompt and effective responses - it's clear that I need to check voltage or not use the 283 at all. You've potentially saved me a costly mistake! V/r, JD Wheeler</p>

[tri-x1]

<p>If the 283 was made in Japan the trigger voltage is too high. If it was made in China it should be OK. But it still wouldn't hurt to check with a multimeter.</p>

[Jerry_]

<p>You could try to locate a used SB-600 Nikon Speedlight (perhaps less than $200) that will work without the risk of damaging your Nikon D90 body.</p>

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