Using Nik Sharpener Pro 3.0

[chrisalmerini]

<p>I have reviewed the trifold manual that came with the software and I am still confused. Does anyone have experience with this software and would be able to suggest starting settings for using the program? Which sliders produce better results and which ones to leave alone? I reallly like the Silver Efx software from Nik but this one is a lot more difficult to use. I may just stick with CS3 sharpening or unsharpening.<br>

Any help would be greatly appreciated!<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p> </p>

[dbcooper]

<p>Learning new software can be frustrating. I find a visual guide to the user interface helps. Have you watched their tutorials?<br>

http://www.niksoftware.com/sharpenerpro/usa/entry.php?tab=2</p>

 

[peter]

<p>When I tried this software, I found that local contrast and structure are two sliders that can help greatly with some images but need to be used with some discretion.<br>

I mainly use Paint Shop Pro Photo X2 and it has something called a "clarity" filter which has a similar effect to these. This is great with landscapes for bringing out fine detail and increasing apparent sharpness of images but if overdone begins to look cartoonish. It is not good in portraits as it gives a very unpleasant look to skin if used above the absolute minimum setting. The same goes for the Nik tools.<br>

Output sharpening and adaptive sharpening adjust the overall sharpening strength and also need to be used carefully. (I was never clear on the difference between these.) Most times when a photo was basically OK - just needed slight tweaking I found that the software could be relied upon to make its own decisions. If a photo needed just that bit more though , I would always tweak the local contrast and structure sliders first before adjusting overall sharpening strength. I found that gave a better result.<br>

I repeat - the local contrast and structure sliders were really very effective with things like photos of buildings, or rocks as it brought out the details in them wonderfully. They are also great with reflections in windows - somehow it clarifies these nicely and this gave me a whole new subject for my photos. (I still do this with clarity in X2) With photos with lots of fine details like fine tree branches and foliage it needs to be used carefully to avoid an "over done" look and with portraits it was best to not use it or just use a tiny smidge to avoid a kind of Frankensteinish "freshly dug corpse" look to faces. (Try it - overdo it and you will see what I mean)<br>

The focus slider did not seem to do much - perhaps because my photos were in focus???<br>

I would love to own this software too but its a bit pricey given that my X2 does a pretty good job and also has the ability to "paint" sharpness onto areas.</p>