Minolta CLE overexposes by one stop. Replace cell?

[trex1]

<p>I have a problem with my CLE. It overexposes by one stop in low light, but seems fine in daylight. Anyone have any ideas?</p>

[starvy]

<p>i didn't realise that replacing the cell was that easy a task.</p>

[Alex_Es]

<p>I find this weird. Usually it is the other way around--the meter goes for the bright places and darkens all out. Is it possible the your printer is doing this? If this an inherent problem just increase the ISO by one stop. Since your daylight exposures are okay I doubt there is anything wrong with the camera.</p>

[orvillerobertson]

<p>The CLE iis well-known to have a very buggy exposure system. I love but no longer use mine because of this problem.</p>

[joel_matherson]

<p>How low light are we talking about here?</p>

[Alex_Es]

<p>The exposure system does not age well. It can get buggy as Orville said. But I have yet to hear of it overexposing in low light. (My M8 has that tendency and often in low light I put it on manual.) Joel's question of how low a light are we talking about is a good one. I am also wondering what sort of film you are using and what speeds you are shooting at. With negative film is use it usually better to have a slight overexposure to bring out the shadow details. But I do not think that the CLE is that sophisticated. I would think that if you are getting over exposure in low light you would be getting the same in bright light. How about some pix? </p>

[joel_matherson]

<p>I was thinking along the lines of operating outside the meters Ev range, its certainly not unlimited.<br>

I respectfully take partial issue to the notion that the CLE's metering system is buggy or unreliable in the sense that they had always been like that which is somethimes claimed by many non users. If a mechanical Leica wore out a part after 20years would you call it unreliable or just in need of service? Very few CLE's have ever been serviced in their lifetime, they wear out just like any other camera. The meter LEDs do go haywire from build up on the contacts under the shutter dial, had the cameras been serviced regularly this probably wouldnt happen but the electronics like any mechanical parts do wear out, they arent designed to operate forever. The electronics were perfectly reliable within the expected life of the cameras. Its only because they are such great little cameras which never were replaced or upgraded we try to keep them going as long as we can.</p>

 

[Alex_Es]

<p>My first CLE (bought used in 1985) was buggy from the first and was sent to Minolta who fixed it for 6000 yen. As time went on it would have spasms of dancing diodes, a common problem with this camera. I would cure the problem by giving the camera a gentle tap. A year or so ago the diodes blanked out. The camera still works in unmetered manual mode. The problem with the CLE has been a lack of spare parts and the lack of repair people to work on it. Minolta, before it disappeared, washed its hands of fixing the CLE. There is a guy here in Japan who can fix CLEs for 30,000 yen. I have a second CLE (bought in 1999) that so far is holding out. </p>

<p>Regarding camera electronics, the obvious: some cameras hold out better than others. My Canon EF, bought used in 1980, has worked flawlessly all these years, for instance. Ditto for the electronics of my oldest M6, dating from c. 1984 and bought used in 1989. </p>

<p>Anyway, Darilus, its time for you to jump into the fray. What is the CLE of yours up to?</p>

[trex1]

Hi guys. This is the story. I like to take pictures of my kid, in the house, and use ambient light. The exposure of 1/30th at f2.0 is spot on for 100asa b/w film and renders black as black and white as white. However, the CLE seems to want to choose 1/15th instead, and compared to my EOS cameras is always exactly one stop under, inside that is. I think outside it is spot on.

 

I came across this situation with a 40 year old Leicaflex SL, and that is a known problem, the cell does that after a while for some reason, but the CLE is much more modern, so I am puzzled. I wonder if there are some kinds of adjustment for the way the cell measures light.

[Alex_Es]

<p>Gee! I've see if mine does the same thing. The simple solution is to move the ASA (ISO) dial up one speed or set the exposure compensation dial at minus one. I'll test my CLE and see what it does. </p>

[Gus Lazzari]

<p>Well, the CLE shares the electronics flex design of the very reliable design of the Minolta X-700 SLR.<br>

If the meter were "out of range" it would let you know by not functioning properly. Cell replacement will accomplish <strong>nothing</strong>.</p>

<p>All that said; the thought that there's just one adjustment for the entire meter range is <strong>wrong</strong>. Of course many camera company designers placed multiple variable resistors on their flexes, for (among other things) the task of zoning in on the correct exposures at DIFFERENT E.V. levels.</p>

<p>Just get your CLE to a technician who has not only the skill, but the info on which VR to adjust at EV 6 (100ASA, 8th at f/2). My tester goes from calibrated EV6, 9, 11, to 15; several shops should also have that same capability.</p>

[trex1]

<p>Hi Gus, that was kind of what I was thinking. I am not a camera technician, but I have opened enough up to see those variable resistance controls. So, maybe the control for low light would be out? The camera only goes down to EV-2 or 3. I'll see if I can get some cheap loving from some of the Tokyo repair people, doubtful though. The problem is when I only paid 250 bucks for it, it would hurt too much to spend another 100 to fix this minor problem...having said that, the big plus of this camera is the ability to shoot in available light, so.......</p>