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equipment upgrade Question


duane_m.

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<p>I posted a similar question before but circumstances have changed now. I opted to keep to my current gear since I only do weddings and occassions for favors (2nd shooter as well). But now, I have 2-3 weddings planned ahead this year and I will be paid.<br>

I am now considering upgrading my gear. My first priority is a new body. I am thinking of a D300 or a D90. Wit the D90 I could still get a new lens. I am thinking of Nikon 35mm f2.8 or a Tamron 90mm. With my current gear, I dont have a lens wide and decent enough to do group shots. I wont be using the wide settting all the time, but I think clients would still expect a picture of everybody in 1 group. Plus the locations are not wide enough for me to use my 50mm for a whole group. I saw a pro photographer before shoot a wedding with an Nikon 18-70 and 70-200. I also read good reviews of the 18-70 so that is also an option.<br>

I dont mind second hand D200, D80. But the CMOS sensor I think will benefit me in terms of ISO range.<br>

I am not sure if the 35 mm is wide enough (wideness:distortion wise) and for candid shots. I understand it will a lot of footwork for me with this. THe tamron gives me a macro and a mid telephoto for the no flash ceremony.<br>

Current gear: Nikon D50<br>

Sigma 24-70 f2.8<br>

Nikon 50mm F1.8<br>

NIkon 18-55 kit lens<br>

nikon SB 600<br>

All advise, feedback or comment is very much appreciated. Thank you.</p>

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<p>I wish I could get a new body. Mine is almost 61 yrs. old and when I suggest switching with someone younger, no dice! </p>

<p>Yes you need a second camera as a backup, just in case. Treat them well and they will last a long time. I have a Canon 20D I bought in 2004 and it is a backup camera now but it has served me well over the past years, always works.</p>

<p>Another thought for you to consider is taking some of your money and investing it in education. I'm taking a one day seminar March 30 from a really good wedding photographer here in Minneapolis. Then in May I'm taking a 3 plus day seminar with Hanson Fong at Treehaven in Wisconsin. I'm always learning even when I get asked to teach a seminar!</p>

<p>I've discovered, over the years, that many of the "experienced" or "high end" wedding photographers I've met and some I've work with usually use the simplest equipment. My primary associate photographer who works with me at most weddings has been taking wedding gigs for 30 plus years. About 95% of her photography she uses controlled available light. She has one flash and a couple of reflectors. We will scope out each wedding either before the event or arrive a little early to find the best light. </p>

<p>At any rate, I hope this helps you and I wish you the best for success this year.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Hahaha... I mean a new camera body.<br>

Thanks Bill. I am planning to take up a diploma course on photography this school year. I just need to squeeze the time with my full time job. Although I keep myself posted on free photography techniques available online.</p>

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<p>I started with a D70 shich has since been relegated to backup and upgraded to the D300 and I LOVE it. If you don't want to shell out for te D300, Best Buy has D200 bodies at 799.99 which is very conprable to what I;ve seen used 200's go for on E-Bay....</p>

<p>Grab a SB800 if you can find one.......YOu can do some creative lighting coupled with the SB600</p>

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<p>For weddings a camera with ISO 1600 performance and clean images is important as well as reasonably good low light autofocus (this is where IR AF assist from a strobe or the SC-29 can be critical.<br>

For groups in normal light using a DX camera a 17-55mm f2.8 works great. Another lens for very low light shooting, as when the DJ turns out the lights in the mistaken belief that it will get more people to dance, is the Sigma 30mm f1.4 lens. The Sigma is very sharp, very fast to autofocus even in low light and the f1.4 means you can shoot in 1/4 as much light as with a f2.8 zoom if need be. The Sigma 30mm on a DX camera is really a "normal" lens like using a 50mm lens on a full frame camera.</p>

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<p>I also cannot see why a 35F/2.8 would be on you to buy list - as you have that FL Aperture combination in the Sigma zoom.<br>

<br>

Also why consider a 90mm when you, by admission are lost at the wide, for group shots?<br>

<br>

I concur with Nadine and Bruce: a 17 to 50 ish F2.8 would be the first lens to consider in your situation.<br>

<br>

Then, if it were my kit, I would buy <strong><em>both</em></strong> a fast wide and a fast long prime, to mate with your 50mm (as each of those folk I mentioned has have suggested). <br>

<br>

I would then consider selling the Sigma 24 - 70 zoom to invest in another Flash.<br>

<br>

At the cessation of this process, the Prime Lenses offer system redundancy for the main zoom, and a tight spot, if you main zoom goes down, there us the wide of the kit lens in an emergency.<br>

<br>

WW </p>

<p > </p>

 

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<p>I dont find my 24-70 reliable on the 24-50mm especially at low light. It is good from 50-70 at wide apertures for portraits and macro. I intend to use the 35mm for group shots. I know it is stil debatable which is better between zoom and primes, but since I had a zoom and I dont find it fit for paid projects then I thouht I might try primes (I'm very happy with my 50mm prime). That explains the weird combo. I am in a tight budget (£1k max) especially now that I noticed the prices went up here in UK since last month (been monitoring them).<br>

I find it difficult investing for a hobby turning business like this. I have seen in some threads saying the equipments does not matter but skills do. But if I am going professional like now, I feel I have the responsiblity to meet the customer's expectations and at least benchmark my work at some standards. And I dont feel equipped enough (gear wise) to address those expectations. But I dont want to let the opportunity pass again that's why I am investing a small amount to set up my basic needs and hopefully get 2-3 couples happy with their photos this year.<br>

I dont see myself investing in another flash yet as it would entail more expense for the wireless trigggers. But if things go well and I see return of investments (even just sightly) then I am considering a proper studio lighting.</p>

 

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<p>Considering the current prices, I might be able to stretch my budget for the D90 and Tamron 17-50. If this will be the case, I will have to think whether keeping my sigma for macro use. Either I keep it or get a profit from it and buy the sigma 30mm. THere are a lot of business opporutnities at the moment and I would like to have a share of it. That's why I am trying to be careful because I dont want to blow the whole thing off without even launching.</p>
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<p>The point that the Sigma zoom is not performing to your liking from FL 24mm to 50mm, at the open apertures, is understood: but there are a couple of points which require clarifying:<br>

<br>

. <em><strong>"I intend to use the 35mm for group shots":</strong></em> then does this mean the group shots and with this lens wide open? So does that mean Group Shots without Flash? If this is the case consideration of a faster 24, 28 30 or 35 would make much more sense, like the Sigma 30 mentioned. <br>

Also 35mm, even 30mm, is still not all that wide on an APS-C Camera, for a group of six or more, in a tight spot.<br>

<br>

. <strong><em>"it is stil debatable which is better between zoom and primes"</em></strong> : meaning IQ? <br>

I think it would be generally agreed that $ for $ value in design and make, a Prime will just about always give better IQ and usually a stop or two extra of lens speed and usually be fraction less expensive. Basically there are more compromises in the design of a zoom lens – and to get over those design issues of a zoom, cost more money. This is a generalization, but a reasonable solid one, IMO. <br>

<br>

. <em><strong>"I dont see myself investing in another flash yet as it would entail more expense for the wireless trigggers." </strong></em>I mentioned buying another Flash, firstly as an item of System Redundancy - should you main Flash fail . . . using it as part of a dual Flash system would be a bonus. <br>

Notice I also mentioned Lens' System Redundancy: I have a thing about always having a Plan B (and Plan C too).<br>

IMO, Studio Lighting does not replace on camera Flash when it is required for a Wedding Coverage. <br>

***<br>

<strong><em>"I find it difficult investing for a hobby turning business like this."</em></strong><br>

Yes I appreciate that. <br>

I think to be successful in any business, it is important to separate "Business" and "Hobby" especially within the strategic planning. <br>

For example: wanting the Tamron 90mmF2.8 Macro is an understandable desire. But, IMO, it shouldn't be on a Wedding and Portrait Business's "to buy list", when that Business is way short of any lens speed, longer than FL = 50mm.<br>

<br>

WW </p>

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<p>Thanks William. I got your point having a second flash. I focused more on having a second camera body but yeah, I understand having a second unit of everything. I agree with you on zoom v primes. I will settle for now with the Tamron zoom. I havent checked the locations yet whether how tight the space is, I just know it is a garden wedding. But I think the Tamron should be enough for now. Yeah, Strategic Planning is the term. I've got a lot to learn getting into this, coming from a completely different profession. My wife will need some convincing as well.</p>
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<p><strong ><em >"Yeah, Strategic Planning is the term"</em></strong><br>

I keep it simple.<br>

<br>

First ask: "what are the outputs I require" (e.g. note all the possible situations).<br>

Then: What do I need to get those outputs.<br>

Then: Prioritize.<br>

Then: Time line / budget allocations.<br>

All the time asking: What do I need if this bit breaks or is stolen - do I have System redundancy across all levels.<br>

Good Luck,<br>

<br>

WW</p>

<p > <br>

FYI: <a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/equipment">http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/equipment</a></p>

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