Linhof Master 2000-experiences?

[robert_lyons]

hi

i am thinking of purchasing a master 2000 primarily for portrait

work,overseas location work and some architectural situations. i

wonder if others who use the camera can comment a bit on it's ease of

use and set-up? the widest lense i will use is a 75mm and the longest

is 210mm

th

[matthew_brain]

Get a technika with a rangefinder, particularly if you want to do portrait work. It will be much faster to operate and with a short lens like the 75mm, DOF will be good even hand held (if you need DOF). If you want to capture people moving, the ground glass is not the fastest way to work.

 

Since the shortest lens you want is 75mm, it can be cammed and will function fine on a Master Technika Classic (or Tech IV or V for that).

 

The 2000 does not have the rangefinder but replaces this with a focussing device for lenses shorter than 75mm. You won't need this with the focal lengths you mentioned.

 

Set up time depends on the subject:

 

1. rangefinder hand held - as fast as it takes you to open the camera put in a lens and shoot (I leave a roll film back with 400 ISO Provia on the back of my camera instead of the ground glass just for the quick shots).

 

2. Rangefinder + maximise DOF and no movements (just check the nearest distance with the rangefinder and put this and infinity in your DOF limits), as long as it takes to plonk the above on a Quick Release plate (definitly use a quick release plate), and change from roll film back to 4x5 back. Print the DOF card gif near the end of http://www.largeformatphotography.info/dofknob/

at the correct size onto transparency plastic and attach this onto one of the focus markers (silver triangles with a redline in the middle next to the focussing rails, two screws underneath can be removed and reinserted with plastic DOF card). This will now tell you for any lens the DOF limits on the focussing scale for the lens you use so you can make sure the near limit is in DOF.

 

3. Rangefinder to check near distance (as for 2. for DOF) and ground glass to check framing with front standard rise or shift: a little bit longer (I then have to put my ground glass back on the camera).

 

4. Full groundglass focussing and checking to control perspective and optimise lens aperture for diffraction; about 3 to 5 minutes.

 

5. Multiply everything by two if it is raining and you are holding an umbrella in one hand. (Get a neck strap for your camera, so you can setup with one hand holding an umbrella)

 

6. Enjoy using your camera. Don't feel you need to use movements on every shot and don't worry if your lenses are not the very very latest - they never will be.

 

Matt (http://mattstasmania.tripod.com)

[mark houtzager]

I never used my Master Technika for portraits, but for landscape and certainly for architectural I find the rangefinder burdensome. I am considering having it removed.

 

Trust this helps.

 

Mark

[bob_salomon]

"I am considering having it removed. "

 

Why?

 

1: it will lower the value of the camera.

2: It doesn't weigh much and does not add that much bulk. But you have to

replace it with some sort of plate and the net weight gain is psychological

more then actual.

 

Per Linhof Master Technika less lens = 5.7 lbs. Technika 2000 less lens =

5.61 lbs.

[walter_glover]

Robert,

 

I owned and used a Master Technika 2000 for about 18 months.

Had it not fallen from the tripod and smashed the lens standard I

would still own it and still love it.

 

There were times when i pondered the usefullness of a

range-finder but the trade off with short lens convenience far

out-weighed any yearning to use it for grab shots.

 

You must keep in mind that the MT2000 is a hybrid camera and

there are compromises. ALL Technikas have an issue with the

rotating film back track cutting the very corners of the frame just

as ALL Technikas have a bellows only just bigger than the film

size and so there is greater need to shield non-image forming

light to avoid bellows flare. Both of these points have always

fostered the thought that perhaps this was originally thought of

for 9 x 12 format primarilly.

 

The internal focussing track will not be useable with a 75mm

lens. If you did use a shorter lens it is a very useful device

allowing all lenses down to and including 35mm to be used

either on flate lens boards or on boards with a forward spacer

(58 and 72). The down side is that lens panel movement is

restricted by the confines of the lens standard being inside the

box of the body.

 

With a 75mm on a recessed panel on the outer track (pushed

back to level with the front of the body) there is still an issue with

movement. The flip-up on top of the housing allows some

increased vertical movement but the struts that support the

drop-bed prevent any large lateral shifts.

 

The 210mm will pose no such problems - the camera is ideal

for 120mm to 240mm - and a 150mm on a sunk panel will

facilitate carrying the camera closed with a lens at the ready.

 

I used a Nikkor-M 450mm on mine by adding a Wista extension

tube set but the camera bed and stability are right at the limits of

their stability. It was an emergency measure.

 

Like you, I shoot architecture and landscape/cityscape. In both

these genres the issue of lens fall arises. With short lenses

such as the 75mm this necessitates mounting the camera

upside down (I removed the accessory shoe and permanently

mounted a quick plate) with the 210mm it is also the most

efficient approach.

 

After the fall I replaced the camera with a Technikardan S 45 -

yes, I had to re-mount my wide-angles into sunk panels but that

was a small price to pay for the extra flexibility of unlimited

movements, purpose built wide-angle bellows, additional rail

support for the 450mm .... the list of benefits goes on.

 

I transport the TK45S in the same medium format Lowepro

shoulder bag that I carried the Technika in. With sensible

packing the camera is just as safe and secure in transit as the

little metal box.

 

Earlier I had the original Technikardan which suffered rigidity

problems and the absence of zero-stops. The new S model has

beefier standards and zero-clicks.

 

If you have your heart set on the MT2000 you will not go wrong

but before making a final decision I would strongly suggest

investigating the TK45S just to confirm in your own mind that you

are treading the right path.

 

Range-finder focussing? No, I don't need it and, unless you plan

on a Weegee approach to your portraiture, chances are you don't

either.

 

WG

[neil_poulsen1]

Either a TK45S or an Arca-Swiss.

[bob_salomon]

"yes, I had to re-mount my wide-angles into sunk panels "

 

The TK uses flat boards for 65mm and longer lenses. A recessed board is

required for lenses shorter then 65mm.

[walter_glover]

Quite right Bob,

 

I should have said that I had to re-mount the 47mm SA-XL into a

sunk panel and the 35mm Apo-Grandagon into a double sunk

panel with the new mini-cable release. It works a charm.

 

At the other end of the spectrum the 450mm Nikkor-M now works

on a flat panel without the flare prone Wista tube. (I had lined the

Wista tube with matte blackout material.)

 

WG

[arne_croell]

""yes, I had to re-mount my wide-angles into sunk panels "

 

The TK uses flat boards for 65mm and longer lenses. A recessed board is required for lenses shorter then 65mm."

 

Bob, is there a difference between the TK45 and the TK45S with respect to this? I use an Apo-Grandagon 55mm on a flat panel without problems (and with the WA bellows of course) on my TK45.

[bob_salomon]

"is there a difference between the TK45 and the TK45S with respect to this?"

 

No.

[prip]

Robert:

 

My only LF experience is with my MT2000. Generally I love it. However, I find it frustrating to use my 80mm Schneider Super Symmar. I love the lens, but the wide angle focus mechanism underneath the lens is a pain in the __ to work with when I'm trying to focus on the fresnel with my loupe. I would urge you to try it before you buy. Again, I have no other LF experience; so I don't know if this is unusual.

 

PR

[bob_salomon]

"I love the lens, but the wide angle focus mechanism underneath the lens is a

pain"

 

Lenses from 72mm and longer are not used with the built-in wa focus

mechanism. They are used on the regular rails with the bellows and standard

focus knob.

 

Why is yours set up differently?

 

Is your lens in a 001116 recessed lensboard?

 

Is your lens on a flat board?

 

Who set up the lens/lensboard for you?

[robert_lyons]

i would appreciate a bit more information concerning the "rounding" of

corners that the technica are prone too? also is the bellows "flare"

any more of an issue than say with an Ebony rw 45 which also has a

tapered and compact bellows? thank you

rob

[matthew_brain]

With the focal lengths you mentioned, you should never have a problem with rounded corners; I havn't and my focal lengths are 90 and 180. My 180 is a fujinon W with a huge 305mm image circle; the closest I can get to this sort of problem is a horizontal composition with maximum lateral shift (front standard across AND front and back tilted parallel) in which the bellows press against the side of the camera and shadow the groundglass a little. As far as I am aware, the corners only occur with very long lenses due to the angle of light from the lens centers (effectively making your long lenses a little bit longer by forcing you to crop a few mm). It is no problem for wide lenses.

 

I have not experienced bellows flare yet.

[bob_salomon]

""rounding" of corners"

 

Minimal with a 210 at 1:1. Usually it is actually outside the actual film area.

 

Please remember that Linhof has used this back mount since the early 1950's

and they have sold 10s of 1000s of the IV, V, Master models and this has

never been a problem that bothered users. But should it bother you it is no big

problem to file the corners to eliminate the round flange. But you would

sacrifice the revolving back.

 

BTW, Besides the Technika models this circular flange is also used on all the

45cKardan cameras as well. Although the track on the Kardans are not

polished and plated since these backs don't revolve - it has also not been a

problem except for 2 or 3 instances in the U.S. where we removed the

corners. These were with Kardan users doing extreme macro with 210 and

longer lenses or 600mm and up lenses. Neither is possible with the Technika

models. That was over the past 21 years. But with 1000s of cameras sold.

[brian_ellis3]

As Bob said, the rounded corners are minimal and of no significance (IMHO) with the 210. However, as the focal lengths get longer the rounded corners become more significant. With the 300 mm lens I use the rounded corners are very obvious. I would guess they cause you tolose maybe 5 mm of the photograph. However, this doesn't particularly bother me. I usually lose at least that much of the photograph between putting the negative in the holder and in placing the image on the enlarging easel.