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SB 800 vs. 580 ex II


elizabeth_russell1

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<p>I'm a canon user and just switched from using the st-e2 wireless to pocket wizards. So all my flash shooting will be in manual. So I don't feel like I need the ETTL any longer. So my question is which would be a better flash, the SB 800 or 580 ex II? Or if anyone has any other suggestions I would gladly take them :) I've looked at the quantum x5d-r and it a little out of my price range. I just need a powerful handheld flash that I can adjust manually (quickly). I photograph weddings and time is everything. Any advice would be appreciated :)</p>
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<p>The difference between the SB800 and the 580EXII on their respective manufacturer's cams that most disturbs me is the Nikon "meltdown" factor (which they did take care of with the SB900). If you have your flash hooked up to an external power source like a Quantum Turbo and shoot burst mode, Canon's set up will shut the flash down if it gets to a certain temperature. Nikon's will not....yep....it will physically melt. Now, whether this happens in a mixed manufacture mode, I don't know. Depends where they put the circuitry to take care of all that.....however, because they fixed it in the SB900, I have to assume it's all in the flash.</p>
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<p>".....however, because they fixed it in the SB900" - you give too much credit to Nikon for the SB-900 melt down fix. All what they did they installed a temperature sensor and logic that will shut down the flash when the tube/head gets too hot. This logic can be disabled and the SB-900 will melt down as quickly as the SB-800 or even faster.</p>

<p>The SB-900 has a bigger flash head, but otherwise is not much better than the SB-800 as far as the heat resistance or flash "rugedness" is concerned.</p>

<p>Since you are using Canon cameras, perhaps you should not concern any Nikon latest flash at all. On Canon you would be using Nikon flash in Manual mode, and therefore could use older Nikon flashes that are much cheaper used and as much strong, that is if you really must use Nikon's. I see no reason to use latest Nikon flash on Canon camera.</p>

 

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<p>I'd suggest the SB-80DX, it's basically a SB-800 but without the iTTL and CLS functionality, so all 800's accessories fit perfectly and they can be found for under £100 on ebay</p>

<p>I remember looking at a Sunpak PZ42X - that's a very powerful and versatile unit that's not expensive</p>

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<p>It makes no sense what so ever if you are shooting Canon to buy Nikon Flashes. If you are looking use pocket wizards and shoot manually then look at Vivitar 285HV Professional Auto Shoe Mount Flash (Guide No.120'/37 m at 35mm) ($89) and a decent light meter. The 285 has been around forever, are built like tanks and extremely reliable.<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/61441-REG/Vivitar_233965_285HV_Auto_Flash.html</p>

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<p>I'd suggest a Metz 58AF-1 or 54MZ4-i. Both have manual modes that have partial power down to 1/256th, an auto thyristor mode that is very accurate (and will work with the Pocket Wizards since there is no pre-flash), as well as an ETTL mode (with the right module/programming), should you ever want to use it again. I still use ETTL for outdoor fill flash.</p>
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<p >Just a note</p>

<p >The vivitar 285 has a guide no of 120 feet AT 50mm the viv 283 has a GN of 120 at 35mm so a bit more power. The 285 I think loses a bit of power in the zoom head </p>

<p >The Metz 58AF I think is a good idea plus say 1or 2 viv 283/285 which are as powerful as any shoe mount gun as when you zoom a sb800/900 or 580 back to 35mm you will find the GN around 35 meters same as a 283 and a zoom head is no help when you use light modifiers </p>

<p > Dave</p>

 

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<p>hmm.. what is the advantage of the Metz 58af vs. the viv 283/285? I have two 580 ex II already and if I ever want to go back to ETTL I'll just use those. I have a light meter so I'm good on exposure. I just need(want) some more portable flashes to add in. The more powerful obviously the better so if I need it, its there. The Viv. we're definetely in my price range but if there's a huge difference I don't want to go with cheap now and pay later?</p>
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<p>a decent plus for the nikon strobes is the pc connector, and if you're firing with pw's, you probably need something to connect the pw to.</p>

<p>echo recommendation on the 80dx, which is sb800 minus the latest ttl-ism. its plus over the older models is a bloody nice slave, but if you got plenty pw receivers, you could do just as well with even older models, sb28, 26 (which has slave only not as good as 80 or 800), 25 etc... the slave fetches quite the premium over the non slave models, so i wouldn't be surprised if you could get two non slave nikon strobes, for the price of an 80dx... (if budget is an issue)</p>

<p>personally i use sb 26, 28, 80, 800, and they all deliver the same light (imo). the only reason i use (relatively) recent strobes (with built in slaves) is the fact that it saves me the need for more than one receivers. well, the fact that 80dx practically handles like the sb800 is rather nice too i must admit, so they're the ones that get most use...</p>

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<p>The advantage of the Metz for your specific purpose would be a) it is more powerful than a Vivitar 285, b) it has manual partial power down to 1/256th and c) it has more variable zoom settings than the Vivitar (only has 3). The Vivitar partial power range is full, 1/2, 1/4, and 1/16th (the 283 would require a separate accessory for manual partial power).</p>

<p>Nice to haves but not pertinent to your purpose are a) the 58 would work wirelessly in ETTL with your 580EXs (should you ever want to do that again) and b) if you want to use the 58 on camera in auto thyristor, that mode is not only extremely accurate but does not interfere with the Pocket Wizards because it has no pre flash.</p>

<p>Another option would be to look for used Metz flashes such as 40MZs, which also have partial power down to 1/256th, variable zoom and comparably high guide numbers to shoemounts.</p>

<p>Getting either an SB800/900 or another 580EX would essentially be a waste of money (in my mind). If power and manual control is all you care about, I would look at used Sunpak 120Js (what I have), Metz 45s and 60s, the old Lumedynes or Norman portables. These are more powerful than the most powerful shoemounts but some have less fine control over partial power and are bigger than shoemounts.</p>

<p>What is more important to you--power, fine control over partial power and/or size? How much power? And are you going to use it only for off camera or also for on camera?</p>

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