jameshaskins Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>hello, this may be a stupid question, but is it normal that my bronica (sq-ai) waistlevel finder shows the immage reversed? i mean if i have a person on the left of me, then on the screen it shows on the right. it makes it really difficult to get the subject where i want it. espescially when i need to take a quick shot while doing street photography..<br> anythings to fix this? or is it something you just need to get used to?</p> <p>also, i am starting to use my luna pro sbc light meter and trying to figure out how the readings work. between incident and reflective readings i always have about 2 stops of difference on the same subject in about the same lighting. i cant decide which reading to use..</p> <p>thanks for your help<br> james</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulcooklin1 Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>Yes :) Takes a while to get used to it...or use a prism.<br> <b>Signature URL removed, not allowed on photo.net</b></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akajohndoe Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 After awhile you may actually grow to like it. I find that it detracts from what the subject is and abstracts the composition into constructs. This allows me to concentrate on balance, tonality, distracting elements, and so forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kari v Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <blockquote> <p>between incident and reflective readings i always have about 2 stops of difference on the same subject in about the same lighting. i cant decide which reading to use..</p> </blockquote> <p>Do you know how light meters work in general or does it seem that the other reading is off?<br> Reflective metering something white or black will give you about two stop under/over exposure because the meter looks for medium grey. Incident meter doesn't have that problem.</p> <p>You'll get used to the image quite quickly. First couple of days will feel a bit odd. :)<br> If you want normal view you have to use a prism finder.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_oleson Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>I agree with DN... if you shoot static subjects, the reversed image helps you concentrate on your composition by detaching it from your surroundings. If you're shooting a horse race, you probably ought to get a prism....</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>I always found that the waist level makes things easier for me. Wearing glasses has always been worse when using an eyelevel prism. For sports, that's why many waist level finders have a sportsfinder built in.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rnt Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>You think -thats- bad, take a look at a large format groundglass. No mirror, so the image is upside down and backwards.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas_sullivan Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>heh....yeah, try tracking a 2 year old with a reversed image.....you learn REAL quick how to use it ;o)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akajohndoe Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 I once tried to capture an image of a flying dragonfly with a RZ + WLF. The experience rewired my brain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk_dom1 Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>Hi.</p> <p>Try your meter on a patch of green grass. The incident and reflective metering should show about the same. If they don't, something is wrong with your meter.</p> <p>Bye,</p> <p>Dirk.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_watson Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>One fix is to get the 45 degree finder--laterally correct without the shooter/gunsight posture of the straight prism finder that can interfere with street shooting. Like you, I find the WLF a bit lacking as an all-purpose finder on the SQ. The 45 is sweet. I'd stick to incident metering if you're learning the ropes and see what it delivers in various lighting situations.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmg1911 Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>And, of course the incident meter must be pointed at the camera from the subject's position.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 <p>The main point about the incident meter is that it needs to be in the same lighting conditions as the subject. If, you are photographing a house in the sun. Then, as long as you place the meter in that same condition. The exposure will be fine. It still needs to be pointed in the same way as, if you were at the subject.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rnt Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 <p>Incident metering measures the light falling on your subject. Reflected metering measures the light reflecting off your subject. If your subject is very light or dark toned (compared to an 18% gray card) your two meter readings will not match.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshaskins Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 <p>thanks thanks thanks thanks...... funny posts too ;) lol..<br> i guess ill just have to get used to both. trying to meter on a patch of grass should be useful. <br> Does this mean that if i expose for landscapes then i have to use reflective? because i cant walk up to the mountain to meter what light its under.. and for street photography i immagine that its mainly incident with a lot of guessing....right?</p> <p>Thanks again everybody, and any further ideas or suggestions on metering is helpfull!<br> james</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q.g._de_bakker Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 <p>Why, do you suppose, would you have to walk over to the mountains to measure the light they are in?</p> <p>Think, man! think!<br> That - using your grey matter - is the best part of getting exposure right. So do!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 <p>Agree with Q. C. When I use an incident meter. And, in this instance my camera is between the sun and the mountain. The mountain is facing me and the sun. As long as I place the meter in the same orientation as the mountain. AS, if the meter is the mountain. The exposure will be fine. This will work for anything. The meter needs to be in the same lighting conditions as the subject. If the subject is in the sun, but, with the sun at it's side, then so does the meter's, what people call "Ping pong ball". That "ball"needs to face the camera.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_gumanow Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 <p>I'd recommend you download the manual for your meter and figure out how to use it. Also, start to play a game with yourself that will get you used to metering without a meter. Learn about Sunny f16. Guess the light before you even take a light reading. You'll surprise yourself how <strong>stupid</strong> a light meter really is. Soon you won't need the meter as a crutch but really as a fine tuning. You'll also get more shots if you don't have time to take a reading. If you don't have a shot in front of you, continue to guess the exposure and check the meter to see if you've got it.<br> Sure I use a meter and take incident readings when I can. But remember, <strong><em>LIGHT METERS ARE STUPID!!! </em></strong>You are so much smarter than a meter any day of the week.</p> <p>Gary</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q.g._de_bakker Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 <p>But no matter how smart you might be, no matter how stupid meters might be, you NEED that "crutch".<br> We are truly terrible at guessing light levels, and NEED a stupid light meter to tell us how much light there is.</p> <p>Rules of thumb, like the sunny 16 (or was it sunny 11?) only 'work' under certain circumstances (wonder why they call it "sunny"), and unless you only want to take pictures of sunlit landscapes ...<br> And even then they are never as good as a stupid meter is.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now