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Yashica-A


agripix

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<p>I need to remove the lens faceplate on my Yashica-A TLR. <br /> There does not seem to be any repair discussion on the 'A' here, or more widely through Go**le, and the lens faceplate design is not common to the later models of the Yashica which are covered on this Board.<br /> OK. I removed the (petrified) leatherette, which exposed both large and small brass screws at three corners, but not at the bottom right - where the X-sync plug is located. Only a small screw.<br /> When I took out the three large screws, left bottom and left top, and right top, the lens faceplate clearly is ready to come away except for whatever holds it at the bottom right.<br /> I tried a little persuasion on the X-sync plug - nothing.<br /> Before I 'abandon all hope', does any kind soul here know what is/where is the bottom right retaining 'device'.<br /> Thanks.<br /> (Oh, the reason to remove the faceplate ... this was a $7 'find' at a charity stall, in very nice cosmetic order, except I could see the shutter was not releasing. I think it has had a 'fall'. I am happy to investigate and tinker with it, and report back. :-) )</p>
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<p>I've no idea how to remove the front plate, hopefully others will be able to help here. It might be worth mentioning (if you don't already know, if you do please ignore) that a common cause of shutters not working is oil or similar gumming the blades together. It may be possible to free it up by removing the rear lens element, which normally just unscrews, giving access to the rear of the blades.when a little lighter fluid on the shutter blades may just free things up with a bit of persuasion from a cotton bud (q -tip).<br>

Obviously if it's mechanical damage then this won't help. Good luck.</p>

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<p>If you're just trying to get to the shutter .... I don't know anything about this in general, and I don't know anything about Yashica-A TLRs in specific ... but I bought my second Yashica-C (not A) a few months ago, and it had a totally stuck shutter. I removed it and soaked it in naptha for a while and now it works pretty decently. To get the shutter out--IF that's what you're doing and IF the A is like the C--all I had to do was unscrew the front lens element out of the mount.</p>

<p>This may not help a bit but I wanted to mention it just in case the shutter is what you are trying to get to AND the A is like the C. But it may not be any help, sorry.</p>

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<p>Thank you, John, Jack and Ken (sounds like a law firm). ;-)<br>

Yes, I have used lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol etc. for other shutters etc, and am familiar with that treatment. And I don't think that there is oil on the blades, although I will make sure when I get to it. <br>

I think that (it feels as if) the actual shutter release mechanism has been 'jolted' out of position because it has lateral play as well as too much vertical (pressing) play, and the faceplate edge at that point is ever so slightly misshaped. That is why I was hoping to remove the entire faceplate, but maybe I can just remove the front element and get at what I need. Just don't feel there will be enough room under there....<br>

For Ken.<br>

My front taking lens has two small recessed 'grub' screws ... did your 'C' have them, and if so, did you remove them before unscrewing? Otherwise, I guess it is just a matter of turning it out. <br>

Thanks.</p>

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<p>Thanks for the link above. <br>

The 'Mat' images show that it has the four screws at the front corners ... my 'A' only has three, and at the bottom right hand there is the X Synch plug, instead of a large screw. I 'assume' that the X Synch plug is also the 'retainer' at that corner ?? but I cannot move it. When the other 3 screws are out, everything 'wants to move', except the faceplate is still held by 'something' at the bottom right ... :-(</p>

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<p>Did you remove the knerled ring around the fire button?<br>

Can I see a pic of what you have?<br>

Most Yashicamats are basically the same with a few variations that are more or less intuative when working on em.</p>

The more you say, the less people listen.
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<p>I recently bought a Yashica A, Yashikor lens with sticking shutter. Since it was so cheap I decided to attempt to unstick the shutter myself.</p>

<p>I first removed the rear lens by unscrewing the retaining ring. Make sure you mark the lens so you replace it correctly. I marked the lens with a sharp point Sharpie. Just the smallest dot at the edge will do the trick.</p>

<p>I tried using lighter fluid on a Q tip and a lot of dark junk came off on the Q tip and rolled up tissue paper I used to blot up the residue. It still didn't solve the sticking so I needed to get at the shutter from the front.</p>

<p>You don't need to remove the leatherette or face plate to get at the shutter. Just unscrew the lens. At first I thought you needed to remove the chrome trim held on with tiny screws but this is unnecessary. Just grasp the lens and turn counter clockwise. If it doesn't come loose, apply some Liquid wrench or other solvent with a toothpick (use sparingly, you don't want to use a lot) at the base of the lens housing so it will get into the threads and loosen the lens. Wait a few minutes or longer and try it again (mine came off very easily so I didn't need to use Liquid wrench). If you need a better grip on the lens, you can use one of those thin rubber sheets used to remove bottle caps.</p>

<p>Once the lens is out, unscrew the scalloped retaining ring and any screws holding on the shutter cover plate. When you remove this you can get at the shutter firing and timing mechanism.</p>

<p>I flooded the mechanism with lighter fluid several times and cleaned the shutter blades from the front with fluid many, many times but the sticking still persisted. I consulted a couple of repair books and finally tried mixing a small bit of graphite with lighter fluid and placed it on the shutter blades. That finally did the trick and the shutter doesn't stick anymore. All speeds especially the lower B, 25 and 50 works flawlessly.</p>

<p>One caveat using graphite, make sure you clean off all traces of it from the shutter blades and blow it out. From what I read, if it's on your lens, your photos will have tiny starlike light spots all over your photos.</p>

<p>All the work was well worth the effort especially for an almost pristine $24.00 camera.</p>

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<p>Thanks for the great instructions, Cy. I went ahead and completed a strip down, plus eventually took off the faceplate by taking out the four small screws after slipping the silver ring off the viewing lens. I'll attach some close up images for the record here, if I can figure out how to do that. The (petrified) leatherette was already cracked and broken when I got this thrift store beauty, so no loss there. <br /> As it turned out, I was able to make the shutter cocking mechanism work, and everything looked fine ... except the act of pressing the shutter button still does not release the shutter. It is because one of the small articulated 'elbows' overextends itself and 'locks' itself up. There is a small piece missing I feel sure. On closer inspection with a glass, I found that there is a shiny clean screwhole and apparently something ? missing in the workings where the shutter release arm tells the shutter spring to fire and return to the uncocked position. So, I believe there was good reason why this camera (otherwise in excellent condition with nice lenses and viewing screen etc.) was at the Thrift shop. It was the object of a previous attempt which had ended badly, and a part lost, broken or just not replaced.<br /> At this stage, as it was only a few dollars, it will become a reference camera, and possibly provide parts at some later date.<br /> Although I will not have a working camera (I have plenty!!), I have a 'roadmap' and some more experience with the Yashica body. :-) Thanks to all who gave comments. <br /> Colin</p><div>00SThh-110115784.jpg.29de64f3a2bbbac8a811a24a09343ea3.jpg</div>
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<p>Thanks for that name, Errol. Actually, I have a very nice 'A' as well as quite a few other TLRs, and this particular one was an inexpensive 'find'. I will order a new 'leatherette' for the front panel (not the original vulcanite which A's had, I know, but it looks the same) and this camera will look quite fine on display. It is nice, cosmetically. </p>
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