terence_patrick Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>I've got the 60" Photek Softliter II and for the most part it's been great. The main problem is that the umbrella pole is rather long and when the Softliter is attached to a Profoto head, the pole sticks out about a 10-15" depending on how deep I have the flash head in the Softliter sock. This makes it kind of dangerous on a set and I also can't use it very close to the subject. I've seen videos of Annie Leibovitz using the Softliter close to her subjects and I don't see the same pole sticking out. To those who have one or have rigged a similar umbrella, it possible to remove the pole or cut it down in size so it's not such a hazard? I've had to tape pieces of foam around the end of the pole to lessen the danger of someone jabbing an eye and it looks pretty cheap.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btmuir Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>Mine unscrews in half.</p> <p>Try it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btmuir Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>Mine unscrews in half.</p> <p>Try it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny_wong2 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>Mine too. look for a separation on the shaft and unscrew the end of the shaft after you finish mounting the head and setting it up.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_trayers Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>There are two versions of the Softlighter. One with a 7mm shaft and one with an 8mm shaft. According to Photek's web page it's the 8mm shaft that unscrews.<br> <a href="http://www.photekusa.com/Softlighter.html">http://www.photekusa.com/Softlighter.html</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathan_stiles Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>Link to the video. Never seen her use a Photek device, but I know she loves Elinchrom.</p> <p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/largeimages/176939.jpg">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/largeimages/176939.jpg</a></p> <p>There's a mini she does portrait work w/-- the head attaches from the back, and thus no pole.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_schafer1 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>It's all about the midsize Photek softlighter, and yes use the version that unscrews in the middle, it fits Profoto just fine. If yours actually doesn't unscrew i suggest a quick amputation with a hack saw and some sand paper, just mark it so you still have a bit sticking out after the umbrella is mounted on the head. It's a safety measure to be able to tape it in case of winds etc. (I have a Profoto umbrella set up like this, you just have to insert the center column back into the sliding part when you open it). Below a video of the Photek rig and keep looking at Vanity Fair's website for new stuff as well<br> http://www.profoto-usa.com/news/press/pro8-leibovitz.asp</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david__m_dorn Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>On my Flickr site I have images of how to get the Softlighter even closer by burying a LiteLight (similar tube flash head) completely inside the Softlighter. I also use the same setup in open faced umbrellas.<br> The link is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davedct/<br> This is now my standard approach to softbox lighting. It begain with my 28inch Westcott Apollo. You can see exactly how my set up works in the subsequent images. For the Softlighter the lamp arm is reversed as is the position on the lamp on the bracket.<br> The shallower depth of the Softlighter is an advantage over the Apollo and the Apollo will probably be replaced with a 60inch Softlighter in the near future.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>David--I do that also, with my Sunpak 120J. I take the reflector off and stick the bulb really close to the umbrella inside. I have the 46" Softliter and the shaft does not unscrew. However, I've not had a problem so far.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeseb Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>What do you guys usually do--leave flash reflectors attached or go bare bulb (if your flash head configuration allows it)? Nadine, I see you go bare bulb; is this due to the light quality produced or some other reason?<br> <br /> I'm playing around with using the Softliter and Lumedyne head as my main location portraiture outfit.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david__m_dorn Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>Michael wrote "What do you guys usually do--leave flash reflectors attached or go bare bulb (if your flash head configuration allows it)?"<br> Michael,<br> The LiteLight head is a barebulb and that's what I use. The barebulb makes a pointsource within the softbox and results in a more even distribution. I face the tube into the box so that the base blocks light and thus eliminates a hotspot on the face of he umbrella or softbox. I think the deeper you can get the tube into the box the better. As noted above only the 7mm shaft version is fixed. When I got my 8mm Softligher II I had to look very close to see the joint...could yours just be stuck?<br> Nadine, if Sunpak still made the 120J I would probably be using them. However, once I discovered the LiteLight system ( <a href="http://www.litelight.net/index.asp">http://www.litelight.net/index.asp</a> ) I decided to go with it rather than separate flashes. I really like having a separate power pack for multiple heads.<br> My kit will eventually have two or three Novatorn 240w/s packs and three LiteLight heads and a battery inverter supply for locations with power. I find with digital I can dial the power down two or three stops and still shoot at f/8-f/11 at shooting distances of 3 to 5 feet.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david__m_dorn Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 <p>Michael wrote "What do you guys usually do--leave flash reflectors attached or go bare bulb (if your flash head configuration allows it)?"<br>Michael,<br>The LiteLight head is a barebulb and that's what I use. The barebulb makes a pointsource within the softbox and results in a more even distribution. I face the tube into the box so that the base blocks light and thus eliminates a hotspot on the face of he umbrella or softbox. I think the deeper you can get the tube into the box the better. As noted above only the 7mm shaft version is fixed. When I got my 8mm Softligher II I had to look very close to see the joint...could yours just be stuck?<br>Nadine, if Sunpak still made the 120J I would probably be using them. However, once I discovered the LiteLight system ( <a href="http://www.litelight.net/index.asp">http://www.litelight.net/index.asp</a> ) I decided to go with it rather than separate flashes. I really like having a separate power pack for multiple heads.<br>My kit will eventually have two or three Novatorn 240w/s packs and three LiteLight heads and a battery inverter supply for locations with power. I find with digital I can dial the power down two or three stops and still shoot at f/8-f/11 at shooting distances of 3 to 5 feet.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken_yee Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 <p>Nadine: The 46" softlighter does have a shaft that unscrews. That's listed as a feature on their web site, so I'm pretty sure all of them unscrew...<br> David: that LiteLight strobe looks interesting. Know of any comparisons to Alien Bees or White Lightnings in terms of light color and output? The flash tube looks a lot smaller than the AB or WL tubes...</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 <p>Ken--maybe they changed it, because mine doesn't. Mine is old. That would be a nice feature.</p> <p>David--I use my Sunpak bare bulb into a larger umbrella because it covers much better than with the reflector on, thereby making better use of the inside umbrella surface. I do believe I get a bit more power out of it too. I tested it for softness/quality of light against reflector on, and shoot through, and it makes no difference whatsoever. In a 60" umbrella, I would think coverage/efficiency would be important.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david__m_dorn Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 <p>Ken,<br /> I am very satisfied with the quality of the LiteLight's output. The image of my on my flickr site (see link above) was made using the Apollo Softbox.<br /> The tube I have is the 400w/s model for use with my Novatron 240w/s power pack. So far I do most of my work with the pack turned down to 1/2 power. The tubes are very compact. You can see all the options on the LiteLight website - http://www.litelight.net<br /> John Morgan who makes them has them for US made power packs and tubes up to 2400 w/s.<br /> I will be adding an additional head soon.. Both heads and Novatron 240 will just about 10 pounds (4.5kg). <br /> Not having the power supply at the top of the stand with umbrellas and softboxes like a monolight is a great advantage with, for me at least, outweights the disavantage of the power cord to the head. Also, I will be able to control both head from the power pack. Finally the abilty to use a bare tube also comes in handy.<br> David</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btmuir Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 <p>David,</p> <p>How do you protect those heads/tubes in transport.</p> <p>I've seen them mentioned before, (maybe from you?) a few years back. They look interesting, maybe for a strobe on a rope type application.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david__m_dorn Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 <p>Bruce,<br> The LiteLight heads come with a thick foam suround for each tube and the tube unplugs from it's base (like an old radio tube). I have a padded case for each head and if it's not a log trip I normally do not unplug the tube from the base but just coil the cable, head and protected tube in its case. So far so good. Also my 400w/s tube replacement cost is $60...not to bad compared to others.<br> The flexibilty of John Morgan's LiteLight system is amazing. It make so much sense to have a flash tube that can be modifed to almost any confirugration you can image...bare bulb to a beauty dish.<br> David </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now