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Unable to focus at event with very low light


lapistola

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<p>I was shooting an event for a friend at a nighttime party with very low light. Using the E-3, FL50R flash, a 35-100/2.0 lens, and a 14-35/2.o lens. I couldn't get the lenses to focus in auto and couldn't see well enough to manually focus. As far as I can tell, all equipment is functioning perfectly. People at the party had point-and-shoot cameras that were working fine, and one guy had a Canon SLR that seemed fine as well. The AF Illuminator on the FL50R seemed to be lighting up but not enough to auto-focus. When i tried the built-in flash, it just kept strobing again and again without focusing enough to take a picture. I finally packed up and left frustrated, just glad it wasn't a paid gig or a wedding! Any help would be appreciated.</p>
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<p>I noticed the same with my E-520: Very slow focusing whenever I use flash (either built in or external). It looks that the AF function hesitates quite a bit and changes too many times which makes it impossible to have a decent picture in these situations (you miss the shot most of the times because of the delay), unless you have your camera set to manual or use it without flash (it is faster then for some reason). I hope other users or someone from Olympus contribute with an answer or advice on how to use flash on auto mode and obtain quick focusing, metering, and decent pics... Otherwise, Olympus will not have a market in these low light situations....<br>

Inad Haddad</p>

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<p>Thank you! Yes, it is set to AF to the single point in the center. I'm taking to it my local dealer to have them check my settings. One person suggested--if it's ok with the event sponsor--to set up a modeling light or two. I may try that in the future.</p>
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<p>With $4,000 in two lenses and another $1,700 or $1,800 tied up in the camera and flash, you should expect it to operate under the conditions you described. The flash's AF assist should have worked, assuming you stayed within the distance that system will operate. Last weekend I shot a wedding reception in a darkened reception hall with a DJ's flashing colored lights everywhere and the FL50R, used with an E1 and 12-60 Zuiko performed perfectly. I also have an E510 that does every once & a while hesitate in darkened rooms, but the darned E1 just flat works like it's supposed to.<br>

I will say, the E3 system DOES work, and works well for at least this one guy..<br>

<a href="http://www.josephmark.com/index2a.php">http://www.josephmark.com/index2a.php</a><br>

He doesn't post a lot over on the DPReview Olympus DSLR forum, but he is an occasional contributor if you want to see what he uses..<br>

<a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=28707400">http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=28707400</a><br>

<a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=28704588">http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=28704588</a><br>

<a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=27082388">http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=27082388</a></p>

<p><a href="http://gmchappell.smugmug.com/gallery/6834826_rtMji#436925053_9AkEc-L-LB"></a></p>

 

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<p>I'm convinced the autofocus on Olympus' E-volt system is a joke. I've had numerous problems with it in low light and, even worse, in any situation where you might be trying to photograph action, such as sports. I love the OM 35mm film system, even with its quirks and weaknesses, but I feel that I've been had with the E-volt system. If and when I can afford to replace my dSLR, it won't be Olympus.</p>
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<p>These are all valid insights and I get the same variety of opinions at my local camera dealer. My sales guy, the one who talked me into Olympus in the first place, stands by the camera and the company even though he also sells Nikon, Canon, and everything else. But the other employees at the same store strongly disagree and say I should get a Nikon D700 or even D3. Unfortunately I'm lacking the several thousand dollars it would take to switch brands, so I guess for now I'll make this work (read: take a Maglight next time Haha!). Plus I don't do a ton of events in the dark, and the E-3 has been great in all other situations. </p>

<p>Thanks again all for your wonderful, intelligent, and helpful answers! I love this forum.</p>

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<p>Mr. Chappell,<br>

I haven't been able to capture anything even close to yours. I took dozens upon dozens of shots of runners at a marathon (not exactly Indy cars, eh?). Same with college and pro basketball games in a venue where there's plenty of light (and using a high ISO). Every single photo was out of focus. I had better luck switching to manual focus. I sent the images to Olympus because I thought my camera or lenses weren't working properly. After dinking around with it numerous times "resetting" to factory default settings, hooking it up to the Web site to check on firmware updates, etc., Olympus decided my bad images were the result of "user error" and refused to replace the gear or even accept it for service. Most of my shots look as if they were made with the digital equivalent of a $7 fixed focus disposable film camera. Instead, I've blown nearly $1,200 on the E-500 body, two lenses and an FL-36 flash (which, by the way, broke a month out of warranty) and a ridiculously overpriced flash bracket and flash connector. I make most of my living as a freelance writer and editor but I occasionally took photographs to illustrate some of my articles. I've stopped accepting the photo parts of the assignments, though, because most of the time the E-500 simply won't take an in-focus image (even of people standing still). And I can't afford to buy new gear. I'm happy for you that your gear is working, though. Your shots convince me even more that I got a "lemon" that Olympus refused to make good on. </p>

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<p>My equipment is a generation old. I use the E-1 and the focus in low light is a constant and apparently unsolvable problem. While the dollar cost of switching systems is significant I will not expand my Olympus system and will probably switch to Canon. In most low light situations I have to go full manual including manual focus and distance focusing and I can achieve the same results you would expect with a full manual film system of years gone by. Win some, loose many. </p>
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<p>I'm not sure as to what amount of "very low light" you might have had to contend. I set up my E-3 with an FL-50 on a swing bracket (off camera). I turned off all the lights in the living room, accept for the Christmas tree. To me that was very low light. I shot at various lengths and the auto-focus worked fine. I noticed that the flash infared had a tendency to search a few times before the unit activated. The AF lens worked like a champ!<br /><br />In your initial posting, it's not mentioned as to the ISO setting. This could be a factor in how the AF reacts in "very low light" conditions.<br /><br />I would say in most light conditions, the combination of the E-3 and the FL-50 and the auto-focus is not so much of a problem, unless of course one is shooting in large room with only one small candle (sounds like a seance).<br /><br />My discussions with owners of Nikons and Canons report that they also have an AF problem in extreme "very low light" conditions. I think this is not only related to Olympus E series but most any DSLR. </p>

 

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<p>Daniel, that really sucks. It does sound like a "lemon" issue. Do you have a local dealer/repair store that works with Olympus? If so, I would take it in to them and ask them to look it over and send it into Olympus themselves on your behalf. Unfortunately you sometimes have to *insist* that corporations stand behind their products. Also, my local sales person went through all my menu settings to at least make sure none of my problems were related to my settings...</p>

<p>I have had several minor issues with Olympus gear (part of 14-35/f2 lens came unglued, grip/battery back has a bad connection to E-3 body, they don't even sell a lens hood for the 14-35, etc) which has tarnished my view of the company when combined with my low-light AF problems. I've done a lot of research and asked lots of opinions from others, and the Nikon D700, while more expensive, seems like a great alternative. The problem is the $3k for a body, thousands for lenses, etc. But the Nikon has a full frame censor as opposed to the Olympus cropped sensor, and Nikon is agreed to have the better low-light AF capability by most people I've spoken with.</p>

<p>If Olympus wants to be in the pro arena, I'd say they had better pull their collective heads out of their collective you-know-whats...</p>

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