New Photographer, Olympus OM-10

[chris_edwards10]

<p>Hello, I am thinking of purchasing an Olympus OM-10, with a 135mm Macro lens 1:2.8, flash, and case. Now I am completely new to photography, and thought i would start off with something simple. Before i buy it though, it is used, and i was wondering if there are a few basic things i can do to check the functionality of the camera, because i cannot develop pictures on the spot. It is also being bought off of a person, not a store, so there is a possible scam. It is being sold for 40 dollars, so I was wondering if anyone could help me out, Thanks in advance,<br>

Chris</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>Is the 135mm Macro the only lens included? If not, you really would be better off starting with a normal lens such as the 50mm f1.8 or f1.4. There is also the 50mm f3.5 Macro if you need close focusing. The reason is that a 135mm will not give a wide enough field of view for some picture situations such as a group of people indoors for example. What the 135mm is good for is making more distant subjects appear closer. Even if the 135 is the only lens you can still check out the camera functions.</p>

<ul>

<li>First make sure there are two MS76 batteries installed as this camera will not work without batteries.</li>

<li>Turn on the camera and look through the viewfinder and see if a red light illuminates near one of the numbers. Those numbers are the shutter speeds that the camera can set. While looking move the camera around and see if the red light changes to light different numbers. Advance the film and press the shutter. It should sound different in response to different numbers being set. Now try changing the aperture ring on the lens. You will hear the lens gently click as you change numbers. Those numbers probably read as 2.8, 4, 5.6 and so on, ending maybe at 22 or 32. Changing those numbers should also cause the shutter speed to vary. </li>

<li>Now try turning the focusing ring on the lens. This part has numbers too, but turns more easily and doesn't click. You should notice the image become sharper as you focus.</li>

</ul>

<p>While this is by no means a complete test, this will help get you started. It's been over 20 years since I've handled an Olympus OM-10 so that's really all I can remember. If you do need a 50mm lens, the f1.8 version is the least expensive and go very cheaply on ebay and at used camera dealers.</p>

[chris_edwards10]

<p>Thank you very much, I will keep that lens info in mind when purchasing my next one. I wasnt quite sure about what the 135 mm lens was designed for, i was just glad the camera atleast came with a lens. Also, thank you very much about the basic functions info, it will help a lot. I was also wondering what size of lens you would recommend for a wide angle lens. I am interested in snowboarding/skateboarding photos, and was looking at a 28/3.5, but as mentioned above I am totally new to photography, so these specs confuse me more than anything</p>

[harold_gough]

<p>Chris,<br>

There is no one answer to a question of what lens to purchase . 28mm is at the wider end of the wide angle lens range, 24, 21, 17, etc. being super wideangles and a bit specialised. If you are to have just one wideangle lens the 28mm is a good choice but you might like to consider a wide angle zoom (e.g. 24-50mm) or a mid-range zoom (e.g. 28-70mm).</p>

<p>This may be a bit confusing but it may help:<br>

<a href="http://www.datasync.com/~farrar/zuiko.html">http://www.datasync.com/~farrar/zuiko.html</a></p>

<p>This may be better:<br>

<a href="http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/">http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/</a></p>

<p>For independent lenses try:<br>

<a href="http://www.adaptall-2.com/">http://www.adaptall-2.com/</a><br>

(SP series)</p>

[brian_bahn]

<p>Just wanted to note if you are getting the 135 2.8 lens with the camera for 40 bucks that's quite a good deal. The lens alone is worth at least twice that.<br>

I also agree about the 28mm 3.5 being a good starting point for a wide angle. Can pick one up pretty cheap and they are a good lens. Also I would definitely pick up a 50mm 1.8 then you have a nice range of primes without shelling out a lot of money. You can typically get a 28 3.5 for around $40 and a 50 1.8 for $20.</p>

[john_hermanson2]

<p>The OM-10 may be a good starting point but as an Olympus model, it is a big step down from an OM-1 (lots of problems with overexposure). Test your OM-10 this way: Set to auto, (and 400 asa), leave shutter cocked overnight, remove lens, hold camera body right in front of a bright light. Fire shutter. Shutter should fire at around 1/1000 of a second. If you hear a distinct pause between shutter opening and shutter closing (click............pause....click), it's because of oil on the magnet, a chronic OM-10 problem. If your interest in photography takes off, I'd suggest trying to move up to an OM-1 or 1N. John, www.zuiko.com</p>

[patrick j dempsey]

<p>For skateboarding photos, you will probably want something wider than a 28mm... at last 24mm. Unfortunately, as you cross the 28mm threshold, the super-wide OM lenses still go for an arm and a leg. If you want a good all-around lens, check out the 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 (ignor the f/3.8 version). It's a little wide to a little long and it focuses decently close and is very compact. I think it would be good for those high action situations and doesn't weigh much more than a prime lens. OM-10's are not the most reliable cameras and I've bought several of them over the years simply to get the lenses attached. If you are really interested in the OM system... which there are soo many reasons you should be, ;) then maybe you can consider it an investment in the lens. If you take a look around KEH you will see prices for OM1's and OM2's around $100. The OM1 is a manual exposure camera, whereas the OM2 is a manual and auto-exposure camera. Your OM10 is an auto-exposure camera only, unless you also buy the adapter that allows for manual exposure.... but by the time you do this, you would be really better served with an OM2 or OM1. <br>

Not to bump Harold's site, but def take a look at:<br>

http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/zuiko/index.htm<br>

It's the absolute best all around site about Olympus manual focus lenses. You can always check KEH for prices and go back to mir.com for details on the lenses.</p>

[chris_edwards10]

<p>Thank you very much to everyone that helped me. I will go ahead and purchase the camera, but i have a feeling i may be upgrading towards an OM1, or possibly OM2, mostly because i was planning on buying the manual adapter for the OM-10, but by the time i spend money on shipping and such (I live in canada, shipping is sometimes crazy), i might as well of upgraded to a more reliable camera, that has the same, if not better features, and im guessing from a little research that the OM-1 and 2 are more reliable. Also, looking at some OM1 and OM2 bodies(at keh.com), i notice in the description some have "no shoe 1" what exactly does this mean?</p>

[john_hermanson2]

<p>I think that people who start with an OM-10 get a somewhat bad introduction as to how good OM quality can be. They pick up an OM-1/1N/2/2N and say "wow". OM-1 through 2N have removeable hot shoes which all you to attach ttl connectors for using off-camera flash cords. If you're looking for specific accessories, let me know. I have lots of odds and ends (from servicing OM for 30+ years) and I ship regularly to Canada. John, www.zuiko.com</p>

[starvy]

<p>the best of the double digit om bodies is an om40. i don't think your om10 and the 135mm lens it comes with is good value for money. refuse the deal and buy one from ebay where you are getting an om1 with broken meter and 50mm lens. then buy yourself a cheap russian light meter. i think that would be a much better introduction to photography and olympus. one of the reasons for getting an om body is to use the fabulas zuiko glass.</p>

[ken_max__parks]

<p>I would recommend NOT to go with the OM-10. Ford had their Edsel. Chevrolet had their Nova... and Olympus had their OM-10. You'll find the OM-2 or OM2N to be far superior in camera quality. On one of my Italy assignments, I brought an OM-10 with me as a backup camera (During the days of film). Exposures were way off, and the reliability of the shutter speeds were severly lacking.<br>

Now that the OM camera's are retired, I use the OM lenses such as the 55mm, f1.2 with an MF-1 adaptor on the DSLRs E-3 and E-510. I think the older glass is better than the new AF lenses.</p>

[harold_gough]

<p>The OM2n is a superb camera and I had one from new, using it for 20 years. However, you have to change shoes to switch from hotshoe to TTL cord. Above all, it lacks a spotmeter. The OM4 overcomes both these inconveniences. Having bought one and used it for a year I bought another and gave the OM2n to my wife. Go for the OM4.</p>

[venuslushassproductions]

<p>About 2 1/2 years ago I bought a Canon S2 IS digital camera-an "upscale" point & shoot. One day talking to my dad, he mentioned he "thought" he had a couple old cameras around. So he sent me his old camera stuff, mostly in his underwear/sock drawer I'd guess, a Olympus OM-10, and unfortunately box-only, Pentax K-1000 (which my Uncle Tom probably stole). Long story short, I bought a lens for the Olympus, apparently my uncle also stole the prime lens' for both cameras, which came attached to a good OM-2. The F1.4 lens and OM-2 cost $70, I sent the early model OM-2 (center-weighted) for an overhaul to Art at Florida Camera Repair. $75 bucks later I have a beautiful functioning antique that takes great pictures (and has an awesome lens)! Don't let me mention that when I take the camera out 'n about, that people don't want to take a picture with $7K worth of Canon EOS crap, they want to "hold" ("can I see that") the "real" camera ($150.00). Priceless! Go with an OM-2. =)</p><div></div>

[harold_gough]

<p>Vincent,<br>

I just wanted to wish you luck if your uncle takes action for libel!</p>