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Minolta Hi-Matic 9


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i just purchased a Minolta Hi-Matic 9 rangefinder off of ebay, when i received it, it had no batter so the shutter didnt

work at all. i went to the local camear shop, purchased a battery, and the shutter slowly moved. i talked to the guy

and he said it would cost roughly $60 to $100 USD to go in a thoroughly clean the camera and lens and recalibrate

the lens. i only spent $15 on this camera, so im not totally bummed that it has something wrong with it. the

underlying question is... is it worth spending $60-$100 to fix this camera? i have never used this camera before so i

dont know if the quality is even worth that much, any help would greatly be appreciated... thanks!

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The lens is first rate, the shutter release has a long travel. This was a $100 camera 40 years ago. If you repair it, you could probably sell it for about $25. So the price of the CLA is for your enjoyment only.

 

The shutter does not require a battery to operate. It is completely mechanical. Turn the controls from the "AA" setting and exercise the shutter a bit. Start at the 1/250th setting. It might free it up. If that does not work, you can either pay for the service or try flood cleaning it yourselft. You need to remove the name ring over the lens, remove the front group, and use a little (2~3 drops) of lighter fluid on the shutter blades. Then operate the mechanism. You might try it a couple of times. It's better than having a $15 paper weight.

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I've bought 3 Himatic 9s. 2 had sticky shutters, the other a sticky aperture. Seems to me to be lubricant in all those cases that migrated and 'welded' the blades closed, or in your case sloughed them down. Exercising the shutter often works real well, maybe a few hundred cycles at each speed. On another vein, it's worked well for my MF stuff, M645 1000S Mamiya in particular.

 

With the Minoltas I went further and I carefully unscrewed the retainer on the lens, then removed the first lens group. Access then is clear to the shutter blades. I merely worked a dental probe between the blades carefully, then wiped the blades off with 100% isopropyl alcohol, lab grade with a Q-Tip. U could use Ronsonol (i.e., Ronson lighter fluid too). The result of the wipe, instant functionality. So, the glop on the blades ws the issue (frictional drag). It's also possible the gear train is gunky too, but I've never seen that. Caveat: don't call me if you are a bozo, this is delicate stuff and should only be tackled by brave, steady handed and careful folks. If you do this sort of surgery, it's likely that sooner or later you're patient will be DOA by your intervention. I consider this a 'cheap' camera repair apprenticeship program. We learn by our mistakes ... $15 is cheap tuition.

 

To get at the aperture blades to perform the same cleaning, put the shutter in B, and fire the shutter holding down the shutter release. Now you have access to the aperture blades. All it takes is 3 arms and a spare hand :-). Don't let go the shutter release cuz the blades will snap closed on the Q-Tip or tool and ouch, you've got potential damage. It sounds tough, but it's really not too hard. Look for articles, photos or blogs online for Himatic 9 repair. There's a wealth of free info out there. Also, the viewfinder will likely be cloudy inside and need cleaning. I've had no battery issues with mine, one metering problem due to a broken wire joint which I was able to solder. I think I've been lucky in that respect. Good luck.

 

It is one fine lens on a body of great utility. The 9 is ignored for the 7S-II, which has less utility to my mind. I use the Himatic 9 and the Konica Auto S2 as manual to semi-manuals and my Yashica GSN as a full auto, along with a Canonet G-iii and etc.

 

Jim M.

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I've got a lovely Hi-Matic 7s and a Wards am551 (Konica Auto S2 with different badging) and both are phenomenally sharp lenses. To me the cameras are worth repairing since any significant repair is going to last for a few more decades most likely. Enjoy your Hi-Matic--it's an awesome camera!
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  • 9 months later...

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