Close up lens

[sim_m]

Which close up filter for my 80-400, like the Raynox, canon 500d or others, any suggestions, Please.<P>

 

Simon.

[costas_h]

The 80-400mm takes 77mm filters and Hoya makes a very good 77mm macro close up (+10).

Don't buy the normal close up set because they are not achromatic (they are made of only one lens element).

 

But you should not expect much of close up performance from a 80-400mm lens.

 

You could get much better results without much money.

For example you could buy a Sigma 70-300mm macro (58mm thread) and combine it with the excellent Nikon close up filters by adding a 58 to 62mm adapter.

That specific lens has by itself macro capabilities (1:2) so you should expect decent results.

 

But if you must use the 80-400 I believe the best choice are the Hoyas.

[sim_m]

The reason I need it is to shoot subjects that run away or fly off as soon as you get close. There are times when

I am allowed to go close with my 105mm micro, but am not always trusted by other animals.

[elliot1]

Ad on close-up filters and teleconverters tend to degrade the image quality a bit. Your best bet may be just to crop and upsize if/as needed.

[costas_h]

In that case you would be better off with a teleconverter (though you would have to manual focus and use a tripod of

course).

A teleconverter will not change the working distance but with a close up filter you will have to get even closer (a

teleconverter only reduces the apparent field of view).

Expect to get double the magnification of the 80-400mm (with a 2x converter) and the same working distance.

 

Just make sure the teleconverter you use can be used with the 80-400mm.

 

That said, supposing you use a 2x on 80-400, you get about 1: 2 reproduction ratio at 2.3m whereas you get 1:2

ratio on the 70-300 Sigma without filters at about 1m, so think if you really need that extra 1m of working distance,

while sacrificing autofocusing and steadiness.

[tommyinca]

A +10 Hoya Diopter 58mm maximum diameter on a 80-400mm zoom hardly make any sense. The magnification attemped to product will fall far short of the lens' intended operating parameters. You won't get much from it, is correct.

 

I would try a Nikon 5T (+1.5) plus a 62 to 77mm step down ring.

[joseph_wisniewski]

Simon, if your problem is distance, you've got three alternatives: closeup lenses, tubes, and teleconverters.

 

My first choice would be to try a 1.4x or 2x teleconverter on the 105mm. Don't laugh, Nikon's own recommended procedure for increasing magnification on the older 200mm macro was the use of the TC-201 teleconverter. Macro lenses have oodles of sharpness, and suffer less degradation from teleconverters than most other lenses.

 

The newer 105mm VR macro will work fine with Nikon TC-14E, 17E, and 20E converters (at the obvious 1.4x, 1.7x, and 2x magnification, respectively). You can use them either to increase magnification, or to increase distance at the magnification you're already used to.

 

The older 105mm AF works fine on a Kenko PRO-300 1.4x or 2x. It retains metering, and even autofocuses if you're at a pretty good distance. It won't autofocus up close. The Kenko PRO-300 tubes also work pretty well with the newer 105mm Nikon 105mm VR, if you want to save a few $, but personally, if I had the newer lens, I'd opt for the Nikon converters, just so I could use them with my Nikon telephotos, too. (have 70-200mm f2.8 VR and 300mm f2.8 AF-I). Your situation is the opposite, the Nikon converters won't work with your 80-400mm, but the Kenkos will.

 

Now, back to the 80-400mm...

 

A set of Kenko extension tubes (three in the set, 12mm, 20mm, and 36mm) will retain autofocus (not that important at macro distances) and metering (very important) on your 80-400mm VR. Additionally, they will allow the VR to operate, although you will find its efficiency greatly reduced at short distances. I've done a lot of small creature "closeups" with the 12mm or 20mm tubes on my 300mm f2.8 Nikkor.

 

One disadvantage of tubes is that they destroy the parfocal characteristics of the lens. If you zoom, focus will shift dramatically, so you have to alternate adjustments: zoom, focus, zoom, focus, zoom, focus...

 

Closeup lenses, as have been pointed out, have to be the higher quality ones. They also have to be the lower power ones. The higher power ones decrease your working range so much that you might as well be using the A +4 (Canon 250D, Nikon 6T (almost)) cuts your working distance range down to the same as the 105mm, and the 105mm will definately outperform the honking big zoom with closeup lens. A +2 (Canon 500D, Nikon 5T (almost, again)) will get you into a much better place. Working distance is about 18 inches (500mm), magnification is 0.8x at 400mm, which is pretty cool.

 

Closeup lenses only work over a very small focus range, so you will find yourself controlling magnification by zooming, and controlling focus by moving the lens closer or farther from your subject until you hit the sweet spot.

 

You do want good quality "achromat" closeup lenses. Currently, the two sources are Canon and Marumi. Marumi are cheaper, and are of surprisingly good quality. The discontinued Nikon 5T and 6T are good, but since Nikon discontinued them, prices for used ones have skyrocketed.

 

"The 80-400mm takes 77mm filters and Hoya makes a very good 77mm macro close up (+10). Don't buy the normal close up set because they are not achromatic (they are made of only one lens element)."

 

The Hoya +10 is two elements in order to increase power. It is not an achromat, the lens elements are both positive, and of similar glass. The working distance for a +10 lens is 100mm (4 inches) with the 80-400mm lens focused to infinity, and the working distance decreases if you try to focus the 80-400mm closer. So, if

[costas_h]

Thanks for the correction Joseph, you are right. The Hoya +10 is not an achromat.

I´ve been using that filter for a while and never noticed.

Either way that is a very good filter for a 10 diopter power

[joseph_wisniewski]

If you want a killer achromat +10 diopter, and you don't mind a slight speed restriction, find a 105mm f5.6 enlarger lens, and mount it face to face with your existing lens.

 

Bjorn Rorreslette says that the 105mm f4 bellows Nikkor is about the best "diopter" you can put in front of another macro lens.

 

(Couldn't remember how to spell Bjorn's name, and I figure if you're going to misspell someone's name, go for broke)

[sim_m]

I might opt for Joseph 's idea of a 2x TC with the 105mm VR, But I'm not sure Kenko make TC's that work on the VR model.<P>

This idea all came out last year as I passed an area were big black bumblebees that have white, red and yellow strips were on flowers . I'm planning to shoot some. And there's no way I will risk going near them with just the 105mm micro.

[joseph_wisniewski]

I can't vouch for the 105mm AF-S VR micro-Nikkor, but the Kenko 1.4x and 2x work fine with the 70-200mm f2.8 AF-S VR (although I prefer the Nikon TC-14E and 20E, the 300mm f2.8 AF-S VR (again, I prefer the Nikon converters), and the 80-400mm VR (but autofocus is useless at 400mm).

 

They work with absolutely silly combinations, I've used the Kenko 1.4x with the Sigma 8mm fisheye.