Sinar tilts for off-centre subjects

[andrew pell]

This might seem obvious to some of you but...

 

A while ago I remember reading a review of a Sinar F1/F1? that

somebody had taken on a trip to somewhere like Monument Valley. In

the piece, it was mentioned about using the g/g lines for sorting out

tilts and swings for off-centre subjects (say objects in foreground

and 2/3 picture is sky). The reviewer said it was a doddle to do once

he'd got the knack but then said nothing further!

 

a) If the subject doesn't cover both dashed lines on the g/g, is it

possible just to use any 2 lines as long as they are symmetrical

about the centre of the g/g? and

 

b) If the subject doesn't cover the dashed lines and is off centre in

the frame, do you use vertical / horizontal shift to centralise it,

use any 2 symmetrical lines for the tilts/swings etc and then

recompose?

 

If I've answered my own questions, please let me know so I know what

to have a play around with next time.

 

Thanks

 

PS I can't find anything in either the original or later Sinar

books / manuals apart from if the object covers both lines and is

central in the frame.

[bj_rn_nilsson]

No, I havn't seen anything in the manuals either. Anyhow, I'll try to answer both questions more or less in one answer to begin with.<br>

You can use any line(s), but I prefer to use at least one of the dedicated lines. Anyhow, there are 7 lines (centimeters?) between the ones you are supposed to use on the 4X5" Sinars. So 7 is the factor here. Now, if you place one line on the far and the close focus point falls 5 lines away (no, this isn't the zone system :-), you should either mutiply the reading on the scale with either 7/5 or 5/7. (I'm sorry, I don't remember which, and I don't have a Sinar readily available at the moment. That should be easy to figure out though, as soon as you've tried it out. It is certainly one or the other and most probably 5/7.) I recon that you can figure out the system from the above example.<br>

One thing is for certain though. This system, when used as intended is good, but it takes some fiddeling and practice to get it perfect. And I must say that this (and the DoF calculator) is what makes the F-line of cameras stand out from the crowd. If you use a shorter distance on the groundglass you will get less precision. The example above is 5/7 (for certain :-) as accurate as using 7 lines. So if you're able to use something wider than the 7 centimeters on the GG, you'll have better accuracy!<br>

It is possible that you read Hamish Reid's comments on the A1/F1, where I some 8 or 9 years ago gave him a similar answer to his question. My comment isn't in the version of the review on Tuan's LF pages, but the article have been moved and revised a few times.

[keith_pitman]

Check Sinar's website~~here's the link:

 

http://www.sinarbron.com/123f.htm

 

It show a step-by-step procedure for swings, tilts, and depth of field.

[andrew pell]

Thanks Bjorn & Keith

 

I'll have a go with the fractional version to see If I can get the hang of it.

 

Keith - thanks for the link but if you look at the pictures, both the loco and the cards would cover both lines on the g/g and hence it's easy to follow Sinar's method (they would make it easy for themselves!)

 

Any more answers welcome

 

Andrew

[daniel flather]

How is this applied to the Sinar F+, it has no angle calculators. I've been looking for it on

the net with no luck. That link above says it can be applied to the f+ but I think I need a

little help with it.