Film and Zone System question

[chrislong]

Ok, back when I was in school I shot all Tmax 100 and did all the

testing required for Zone System photography. I havn't shot any

other films in 4x5 and am interested in trying some, especially

Ilford FP4+ or HP5+ because its significantly cheaper then Kodak.

What can I expect out of these films? Are they sensitive to

processing variables like Tmax or are they more forgiving? Tonal

range?

 

Currently since I live in a small apartment I don't have any access

to a darkroom, so I'm processing my film in the bathroom and then

scanning it with an Epson 2450 and outputting that on either my Epson

820, or taking it to my local lab who goes straight from digital file

to photo paper (Noritsu machine, similar to Fuji Frontier) My

problem is that I would eventually like to be able to print all my

negs in a wet darkroom when I get the space and therefor would like

to use the Zone System as a basis for exposure. However, I'm not

sure how to go about the testing without using a traditional

darkroom. Anyone have any idea on how the traditional method of zone

system testing could be adapted to fit my needs or scanning only? I

don't know how to go about getting a standard by which to judge by

(usually, getting exp. time of film base + fog and then using that to

make subsequent prints) If any one has any suggestions, I'm open.

Thanks.

[Troll]

Over 90% of all negatives can be exposed at (your) normal EI, and should be developed for Normal contrast.

[bob.]

Can't really help from experience as I am 100% wet... but have seen the subject on my web-travels before so, punching "digital zone system" in to google brings up:<P>

 

http://www.sentex.net/~sfinlay/Zone1.htm </a> & <BR>

http://www.bobwheeler.com/photo/Documents/documents.html<P>

 

amongst others - Bob Wheeler being the author of the extremly useful <i>VadeMecum</i> for LF Photographers - also available for download from his site.<P>

 

Cheers,

[daniel_ingram1]

If cost is important, don't forget that Agfapan 100 is even cheaper than Ilford. I love the way it looks -- like ink drawings when developed in Rodinal, and with wider tonal range when other developers are used. Not so many use it these days -- I guess not many stores carry it. But if you can get it, give it a shot. As for N+/N- developing, I haven't found the need for it yet. Then again, I've never tried shooting the Moon over Half Dome. I guess it all depends on what you shoot.

[dan_smith]

You might think seriously of learning to develop film by inspection. It can save you a lot of time & testing. Since you have a bathroom you probably have room enough to put down a few trays & a green safelight. Even if your space is limited you can pour in chemistry after the developer & do well. Then, contact print using a very slow contact printing paper... Kodak Azo. Slow enough to use the ceiling light in the bathroom which makes you ersatz darkroom more versatile. Then rinse negs & prints in the sink & hang from the shower curtain rod using clothes pins to dry. If you want to see what one can do with inspection development go to http://www.michaelandpaula.com and you will see this at its best.

[chris_jordan__boston_1]

You could try this...

 

If you have a friend who knows the zone system well, get him or her to lend you a negative with a nicely exposed zone three and well developed zone seven. On a light table (which can be made with some kind of thin white Plexiglas between two chairs and a light bulb underneath), You will notice that the "dense" areas are still somewhat translucent for a zone seven, with discernable detail, indicating good development. The shadow areas also have good detail (not completely clear), indicating adequate exposure. Then...varying exposure and development time accordingly, try to make your negatives look like his/hers. This should get you at least into the ballpark until you can get into a darkroom. Good luck!

[bob_moulton7]

If you can process your film in your bathroom I suggest you do the tests needed to derive your N processing times and basic EI for the films that you want to use. Generally, an N+1 will be N x1.20-1.40. An N-1 will be N x .6-.80. N+2 you can get with N+1 and Selenium toner. N-2 will probably require dilute developer and slow agitation.

If the problem is in the amount of film to be shot to derive the speed and developing time I suggest you buy three used 4x5 holders. Take three of the dark slides and drill a 3/4 inch hole in each . Hole 1 at the top. Next slide Hole 2---1.5 two inches down drom the top. Next slides hole 3 1-1.5 inches down from hole 2 slot.

Now you can make 6 images on a sheet of film, or 12 on two sheets.You simply shuffle the slides to reveal the circle you want to expose at a given exposure. You can expose the circles of film to a test target--gray card, etc. vary exposure, and process them.

If you can find a friend/processing dealer who can read the resultant images with a densitometer you're in business.

Even better you can scan those neagtives in and establish an N curve for use with your film.

Hope this helps.

 

Bob

[ken_lee11]

<p>I have used the following methodology to test my film. I also shoot TMax 100 and use an Epson scanner and Photshop.

 

<p>Make some test shots of a standard 18% grey card, but also include something in the upper zones, especially something creamy white and something absolutely white. (Zones VII and beyond) A good subject is someone in soft sunlight, wearing some dark and cream-colored clothing, holding the grey card, and another card that identifies the film speed you are simulating with your exposure. Try to replicate the most normal scene: no 12 sec @ f/64, no close-ups, etc.

 

<p>Scan the film using the least possible contrast. This will make sure you get all the values that are possible. Scan at 16 bit b&w if possible.

 

<p>In Photoshop, adjust the levels until the black film edge is perfectly black, and the totally white area is perfectly white. Do not over-correct. You want to stretch the tonal range back out, as far as necessary, but no more.

 

<p>Now inspect the value of the grey card. It should be Zone V. Similarly, the higher values should be right-on. If not, then you need to adjust your development time and/or ISO.

 

<p>Of course, you can always modify things in photoshop, but the point is to shoot your film in the best possible manner.

 

<p>For a demonstration of how this should look, using your Epson 2450 scanner and an Ansel Adams photo, see <a href="http://www.tssphoto.com/sp/dg/2450/48bit/page4.html">16-Bits Grayscale Scanning of Ansel Adams "The Tetons - Snake River"</a>.

 

<p>Best wishes,

 

<p>Ken Lee