How do I get continuous tones from ortho film

[eugene_sykes]

Hello there. I was wondering if anyone has experience using ortho film in the camera for continuous tone negatives.I have done it in the past for producing negatives to print on albumen paper. It was hard to control, but I really liked the results. I would like to try it again. I am getting aqcainted with a sea of new products and replacement products and would like a head start with any advice before I start experimenting. I am curious about exposure and developement. Apercentage of the film speed? Use diluted paper developer? thanks, eugene

[jorge_gasteazoro3]

I have never tried it on camera, but I guess ASA 5 developed in pyro

or Catechol will give you continuos tones.

[ken_woodard]

Eugene, which ortho film are you considering? Is it Kodalith or the

recently discontinued copy film? Ken

[david_clark4]

Hi Eugene, I've got experience using said stuff, and what you want to

do is buy yourself a box of Ilford Ortho Plus. It is a continuous tone

ortho. I develop it in Rodinal 50:1, by inspection of course, but keep

it out of direct red light as it is possible to fog it. You might be

able to pick up some speed with D 76. Begin with 80 EI, but sometimes

I shoot it at 40. I like it just fine. Some folks hate the skies it

makes. Good luck, David

[pete_andrews]

'Ortho' is short for orthochromatic, meaning true coloured. It refers

to the colour sensitivity of the film, not to it's contrast.<br>You

can get the same effect as ortho film by using a deep Cyan filter on a

normal panchromatic film.<br>If you mean lith or high-contrast copying

film, then why not say so?

[erik_gould1]

If by ortho you mean a lith film, like kodalith, then I would suggest

developing the film in a paper devevoper, like dektol, with gentle

agitation. I used normal paper dilutions. as I recall processing

time was much like paper, about 2 minutes. ISO is slow, I

believe I started at 6 and tested from there.

[jeff_buckels]

What Pete says about the deep cyan filter is technically true, but the

exact effects depend, of course, on which pan film you put the filter

in front of and other variables. I've used Ilford Otho-Plus, too, and

like it a lot. One advantage over the cyan filter -- and it's a big

advantage -- is that, as noted above, you get to develop by inspection

under red safelight. By the way, even a very dim red safelight (like

7W bulb in a Kodak bullet) gives excellent illumination once your eyes

adjust, which, happily, is just about the time you need to start

inspecting. -jeff buckels

[dhananjay_n]

I'm assuming you are referring to getting continuous tones out of

high-contrast lith or document film that happens to be

orthochromatic. I've done a fair bit of this in 8x10. The trick to

this is giving very generous exposure (most of this film has a

nominal ASA of about 5, but I would be quite happy rating it at 2)

and using a very weak developer. The generous exposure is quite

crucial to giving the shadows a fighting chance of developing some

density before the highlights head out to the stratosphere. The weak

developer is necessary to exhaust in the highlights. Use reduced

agitation. Developers that have worked for me well are TO/XDR4, POTA

with glycin, Catechol based developers like the Windisch. If you

prefer off-the-shelf, try Technidol or diluted print developers. Good

luck, DJ.

[robert_griego1]

I know this is an old thread but I have recent experience with this... I recently switched over to using lith film exclusively mainly since I do this for a hobby and the film is really really cheap. I picked up Aristo Lith film from Freestyle (in 8x10 and 4x5). I've shot a bunch of the 4x5 to come up with a decent process and works well with both sizes. I meter the film at about 6-12 and develop in Dektol diluted 1:8. To develop I slide the film into the tray emulsion side down and let it sit there while rocking the tray for about 20-30 seconds. Then I flip the negative over and sink it to the bottom of the tray and rock for a few seconds. Then I just let it sit there for about two to three minutes and not touch the tray at all. I end up with negatives that are "punchy" but printable with a good density. You definitly have to choose your subjects wisely as not everything is flattered by the excess contrast. I have a blast (and really, as a hobby that's important) and regularly go out and shoot with wild abandon since the film is so cheap (even the 8x10 is only about $32 for 100).

[robert_garrett2]

Thank you, gentlemen. You have helped me a lot with my X-ray film, which, of course, shares characteristics with ortho.

People should play around more with X-ray, which is often available free (when overage) from radiology labs. And usually as good as fresh stuff.

Bob Garrett, West Chester, PA