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HELP....!...65mm focus problem.


andrey_belo

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I am having a problem today.I use an Ebony SV45 and just bought a Schneider Super-Angulon f8 65mm lens.Going out into the street with views for several hundred feet I could not find the focus for this lens.I had the camera draw at maximum with the front and rear standard blocks touching....the maximum draw,with wide angle bellows.Am I doing something wrong,or is maybe the rear element the wrong one?I am baffled and could do with advice.Thanks in advance for your wealth of knowledge.A.
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Before you go tipping standards etc, why don't you take a tape

measure with you, measure 65 cm from the film plane to nodal point of

the lens(usually the nodal point is at the middle of the lens, where

the shutter is, hopefully this design is like this, but it should be

close) and this should be your focus point at infinity. After that,

you should be able to see the focus changing as you focus on objects

closer than infinity.

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Thanks for your answers guys,but this doesn't solve the

problem.Louis,I don't understand your answer very well,excuse me...I

don't think 65mm is so wide as to be so extreme with the handling.The

camera bed is fairly short so no probs with it cropping up in

shots.As far as the serial numbers go the rear element has no numbers

at all.Should I be suspicious?I bought it from Photo-Graphic systems

in New Mexico along with a 180/315 convertible symmar,the first of

which was sent missing a cable release socket and had to be

replaced.Could they have mis-matched elements?I can't see why I

cannot find focus...it comes quite close but there is no room for any

more focus.Any ideas?????

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Jorge.Thanks for your time.....here is exactly what is happening...

the lens is mounted normally;wide angle bellows fitted...I roll the

front standard ALL THE WAY BACK to the rear standard as far as it

will go....the lens does not touch the GG....the lensboard is about

8cm from the film plane.Now in my books I should be able to focus on

something on a wide street scene.Even in my home I cannot get the

thing to focus across the room (20 feet) or on anything between.I am

using the maximum draw for this camera.As has been stated a recessed

lensboard should not be needed for this focal length.It seems that it

would solve the problem as a quarter turn of the focusing knob seems

to be all that is needed....but I have just paid $50 for a new

lensboard and had it drilled and am loath to search for a recessed

one with a 00 cut.To me it seems that there is a problem with the

rear element.....it was on sale at half price and I paid $325 for

it,which raises my suspicians further.Anyone have any ideas?Most

appreciated.

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Try taking your ground glass off the camera, take the lens off the

camera, go into a dark room and turn on a bright light. With the lens

wide open move it back and forth towards the ground glass until you

see your light get sharp in the fround glass. It's got to focus

somewhere. If it doesn't, start looking inside the lens for obvious

damage and/or mis-alignments. Schneiders site will show you a diagram

of what is supposed to be inside that lens.

http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/vintage_lens_data/large_format_len

ses/super-angulon/data/8-65mm.html

Oops no diagram. Try the modern 90/8 SA page and see if there's a

diagram.

http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/vintage_lens_data/large_format_len

ses/super-angulon/

This page will allow you to open a PDF that shows the elements in a

90/8 Super Angulon which should be similar to yours.

Best of Luck.

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"the lens does not touch the GG....the lensboard is

about 8cm from the film plane"

You may have answered your own question. Schneider's page states the

Flange Focal distance as 7.05 CM. Your going to have to get your

lensboard closer than 8cm ie. leaning rear standard back, raising

front, and leaning it into the rear as Louis suggested at the first.

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I have done as Louis and Jim suggest (moving the front standard

closer through movements) and looked through the ground glass and

lens wide open (independent of the camera) and seen the lens focus on

the screen,so I know it WILL focus.But not as I would wish.I would

like to be able to set up and shoot quickly without re-arranging the

standards,and anyway this lens should focus without being so recessed

on this camera.I suspect a mis-matched rear element,which is

unfortunate as the lens is a beauty and was cheap.Does anyone know

where I can get a recessed board for field (Linhoff,Wista) in the US

quite quickly and cheaply?(Used would be good)Also it needs the

unusual 00 cut.I just bought a board for this lens and don't want to

fork out so much again and have to send it off to Steve Grimes who

is far from me (I'm in CA).Thank you all for your ideas and research.

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Jorge.Thanks for your time.....here is exactly what is happening...

the lens is mounted normally;wide angle bellows fitted...I roll the

front standard ALL THE WAY BACK to the rear standard as far as it

will go....the lens does not touch the GG....the lensboard is about

8cm from the film plane.Now in my books I should be able to focus on

something on a wide street scene.Even in my home I cannot get the

thing to focus across the room (20 feet) or on anything between.I am

using the maximum draw for this camera.As has been stated a recessed

lensboard should not be needed for this focal length.It seems that it

would solve the problem as a quarter turn of the focusing knob seems

to be all that is needed....but I have just paid $50 for a new

lensboard and had it drilled and am loath to search for a recessed

one with a 00 cut.To me it seems that there is a problem with the

rear element.....it was on sale at half price and I paid $325 for

it,which raises my suspicians further.Anyone have any ideas?Most

appreciated.

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"the lens is mounted normally; wide angle bellows fitted...I roll the front standard ALL THE WAY BACK to the

rear standard"

 

<p>

 

I believe you must first tip the front standard back, as mentioned above. This will place the lens a few

centimeters back from it's normal position.

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I have this same lens, the price you paid is about right for a pretty

nice used one (I think mine was about $350)(I'm assuming you have the

chrome one). If I recall correctly, the rear cell of the lens is

smaller and black and from profile looks like:

________

| |

| |

 

<p>

 

instead of being conical like the front cell, but I could be mistaken.

 

<p>

 

When focused at infinity, the back element of mine is frighteningly

close to the ground glass. On my Wisner Traditional, there is no way

to focus this lens without base tilting the front standard back and

bringing the lens board back into alignment with a front rise and

axis tilt. My front standard almost sits inside the rear standard

when focused at infinity (have to use a bag bellows). Don't know

about your camera, but if it's a relatively normal field camera, I'd

suspect you have the same requirement.

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The ebony web page says that your camera will take Linhof

lensboards. If you have a good used camera shop near you they would

probably let you try one.

 

<p>

 

However, it is my understanding that a Super Anglon is a Biogon

design. I don't think those designs are like the old Protar

plasmats, I.E. you can't just swap elements around.

 

<p>

 

If you do not have the correct rear element, I suspect getting the

lens to "focus" will not accomplish much unless you are into abstract

images.

 

<p>

 

My 90mm is an F8 also and I suspect that it was built about the same

time. I would be very suspicious if the rear element of your lens

doesn't have the last four digits of the serial number on the outside

of the barrel. Mine are very small about a 1/16 of an inch so look

closely, they would be very hard to see if the white paint has rubbed

off.

 

<p>

 

My understanding of the ebony web page is that there are two models

of the SV45 one definately would not need a resessed lens board to

use your lens. I can't tell about the other.

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I bought one of these lenses (65mm F8 SA) a couple of weeks ago and

even with bag bellows found that actually what was needed to focus

infinity was a recessed lens board. Like you, I bought bag bellows to

use with a std lens board but found that the standards touched on the

monorail before I could get focus on very much so the bag bellows

didnt help and were sent back. A recessed board has been perfect

although restricting the movements a bit (no bad thing with this

lens). Focus from infinity to real close up is very short.

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Hi I have a 65 f8 SA and I use it on one of the older Toyo Field

cameras. You say ".I roll the front standard ALL THE WAY BACK to the

rear standard as far as it will go....the lens does not touch the

GG.....I roll the front standard ALL THE WAY BACK to the rear standard

as far as it will go....the lens does not touch the GG....the

lensboard is about 8cm from the film plane." Well I'm not sure of

where to measure from but you need to get the lens to 6.5 cm to focus

at infinity. If you can see light through the groundglass and can

bring the lens from say 6 through 8 cm of bellows extension then you

should either be able to focus or the lens is broken somehow.

 

<p>

 

So are you seeing light through the lens?

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