opinions on Hasselblad 200 series

[mark_tucker2]

Thank you all for the responses. That 203 really goes thru the batteries, i've suspected a problem with it since I bought it. it's almost as if it's had a "dead short" in it; it'll be in the case unused, and only after maybe two weeks of no use, the battery goes dead.

 

I am so paranoid about batteries that I keep those PX28L's everywhere; I have about a dozen of them!

 

Will try to reset the 202FA, and I supposed prepare to send off the 203FE to New Jersey? What is current repair facility for 203FE?

 

Thank you all. Even with these problems, I bought yet another one last week; I found a demo in California. 203FE is the best camera that Hasselblad ever made. Was gonna sell the 202, ever since I discovered that it only goes to 1000th, but now, I'll keep it as insurance policy.

[mark_tucker2]

A little note: Yes, the button in the middle of the manual crank fixed the 202FA. I'm back in business. You gotta love the internet. After all these years of using these cameras, I never knew about that little trick. (I had a full 202 system, pre-digital, and sold it all when Canon waltzed into the scene, thinking digital was the end-all-be-all future. boy was I wrong).

 

One last question: From another thread it appears there is a PX28L and PX28 something else, (not lithium)? And that either batteries are OK to use?

 

And something about holding a button down for 15 seconds to turn off the meter, and thus, battery drain?

 

I just love these cameras: such a joy, after using the digital cameras for years. This 203FE and 202 are truly engineering marvels. And the most accurate meters I've ever seen.

 

Again, to all of you, thank you.

[paul_gardener]

Some 203FE and both model 205 cameras occasionaly develop a healthy appetite for batteries.

That is a known problem. It is important to report that to Hasselblad New Jersey if that is where your camera is going.

 

Storing these cameras for a longer period of time is best done with the battery removed but the little tray inserted in

the camera.

That way there is no drain and the contacts from battery tray and the camera are protected against corrosion.

Both the alkaline and the lithium batteries are suitable. I use cheaper alkaline batteries but replace them more often.

New Jersey will do a good job that is the good news. The bad news is the bill that follows....

It helps to ask them for a quotation. It does not make the job any cheaper but it softens the blow.

Be a good sport and report what the result $$$ of this repair job is.

[mark_tucker2]

Here is even further proof that Jesus lives -- I took the manual crank off the 202 and stuck it on the 203, and again, i pushed that middle button, and then I threw some salt over my shoulder, and I cranked it, and the angels began to sing. The 203 is now fixed too. My suspicion is that the issue is that motor drive, which is the weak link in that whole 200 line. It's like a goiter sticking out from the side of that body. And for some reason, I can never find a position for my fingers to fit in there, to keep my finger on the shutter release, but also for my hand to be physically comfortable. As much as I love the motor for shooting people, I think it's best to simply use the manual crank. I have two of those motors, and three by next week. No one seems to want them, and I'm starting to know why.

 

I wish you could take that 503 motor drive, with that hand grip thing, and get it to work with the 200's.

 

But I don't want to complain -- I'm back in business, and without sending anything to New Jersey. Lesson learned -- that little center button is the cure for all ills.

 

I agree with someone else -- it would nice to have a battery meter for that 200 motor -- maybe that was the issue. Maybe the AA's were dying. But best it seems to avoid the motor altogether.

 

Thanks to all that responded. You scored some good karma today.

[uk]

Hi Mark,

 

Have you had time and opportunity to affix a CFV back onto you 200 Series ?

 

If so, what do you think?

 

Gary

[paul_gardener]

Mark,

 

There was a special edition 503 winder adapted for use with the 200 series. Special edition as in NASA modified.

 

It is clearly written in the 203FE manual and also in the manual for the winder that it should not be used to carry or handle the camera.

Winders do not give a lot of problems. They do like to be treated to a fresh set of batteries now and then.

[q.g._de_bakker]

Mark,<br><br>Great that the simple reset routine worked for both cameras. I'm sure you'll remember it; it's the first thing to try when anything, that should not, does happen to these cameras.<br><br>Keeping a button depressed for 15 seconds only means 15 seconds worth of (extra) battery drain. The electronics switch off automatically about 15 seconds after you last pressed any button.<br>What may help preserve the battery is to keep the slide int the magazine when the camera is not in use. It stops the shutter release button from being pressed far enough by something in your bag to activate the electronics.<br><br>Does your motor drive (or rather drives) have two short blue stripes on it?<br><br>The motor drive should not cause any problems (though it's brute force and relentless drive will wear the camera a bit faster than when it is operated manually). I find it's biggest problem is the noise it produces.<br>The way to hold the camera with motor drive that is most comfortable for me is with the right hand below the camera, index finger on the release button, and thumb hooked behind the drive. Do not try to use it as if it was meant as a handgrip. The camera's front bottom edge resting on the palm of your left hand leaves your left hand fingers free to 'work' the lens.

[mark_tucker2]

The winder does its job, but since the day I first saw it, it seemed like a design afterthought. Almost like

Hasselblad didn't design it, because it's so clunky. Like it was farmed out to Bill's Boxy Design Studio.

 

Maybe it's my hands; I just can't find a sweet spot to get my hand in there just right. When I hold it, it's as

though my middle finger lines up with the shutter release, instead of my index finger -- I've even tried shooting

it that way, but it never works for more than a frame or two.

 

To that other fellow: I have zero interest in a cropped-back to go on this camera. I got sick enough of using the

Contax and the PhaseOne, and not having the full frame. Enough with that. It's neg film all the way for me now.

[stuart_richardson]

I agree -- these cameras were made to shoot film. They do that brilliantly. With digital, other cameras do a better job -- if

you want a Hasselblad digital, get an H3D, if you want a 6x6 camera for digital, get a Hy6. <P>I do agree the motor is a

very odd design. I don't find it particularly uncomfortable, but the shape is truly strange. It is like it was ergonomically

designed, only for the robot from Lost in Space, not a person. There seems to be no rhyme or reason why it is shaped

the way it is. One thing, however, I do find that occasionally these sort of "brute force" motor drives get out of sync and

can cause problems. There is a little red dot on the inside of the motor coupling, and you need to make sure the dot lines

up correctly with the corresponding dot on the part of the motor that turns (that is cryptic, but if you look at it, you will

see what I mean). I find that the Leica motor M is similar in function, and also similar in its ability get out of sync and

lock things up. Since the coupling is so basic, it does not take too much to get it out of alignment.

[mark_tucker2]

Mr de Bakker,

 

Neither of the two drives has the "FE" blue stripes on them. I guess they're older "F" models? I don't think I've ever seen a motor with the double blue lines. I make a point of trying to buy only the double-blue-stripe models of anything; I'm just superstitious against the older F models. Actually, I'm considering my first tatoo -- a small tasteful double blue stripe on my forearm, just for good luck.

 

I don't mind the noise of the motor. But I really don't care how the camera feels in my hand with the motor. Out of balance; off kilter. I'm going to do everything I can to shoot with the manual winder. I shot the 203 today, and whatever was broken is now miraculously fixed, but I shot without the motor today.

[jason_stoller]

Mark, which are you finding faster and easier the use. Do you find the the motor faster than winding by hand? Before I consider investing in a motor I would really like to know.

 

Thanks

Jason

[mark_tucker2]

Faster? The motor drive. Easier? The crank.

 

If I was shooting a job, shooting people, I'd probably want to install the motor.

[kelly_grider]

I have two 201Fs and also use the awkward and ugly motor winder (with blue stripes) when I am shooting portraits. I agree that it is certainly inelegant, but it helps keep the flow going when I'm working with a model. My motor winder works faultlessly on one of my cameras, but tends to hang up on the second frame each time with the other camera. I just keep the hand crank in my pocket and quickly reset the mirror when this happens. I love these cameras and have had a lot of fun mounting odd pieces of glass on them for optically inferior images.

[mark_tucker2]

Kelly,

 

Yes, if I was shooting people, I'd probably want the motor. I'm going to break into NASA and steal one of those 503 motors though.

 

In terms of "optically inferior glass", here was my experiment that started years ago:

 

http://199.237.236.200/plungercam/

 

-MT

[squareframe]

what a beautiful thread! thanks to dan, Marc, Mark, Q.G. et al. in preparing for sailing around the world, I have been taking inventory of all my photographic equipment to sell. large format, 35mm ... and opening up the Hasselblad cases, I just couldn't come to terms in selling the 203FE and 503CW (not to mention the Flexbody). there is just something about them, and those sublime lenses. I have three refrigerators on the boat, and one is still stuffed-full of TMX, TMY, and a few hundred rolls of C-41. outdated for sure .. but exciting all the same, knowing of the possibilities.

 

it's also fun to think my sailboat (Hallberg-Rassy 42) was built just miles from the Hasselblad factory.

 

daniel taylor

s/v Sequel

San Juan Archipelago, Wa.

[charles_mason]

Hey Mark,

 

Charles Mason up in Fairbanks. So you gonna reconstitute your Plungerlens, too? Good to hear you are back into film, and if you need to borrow an already made Plungerlens for awhile, let me know.

[mark_tucker2]

How can you tell what kind of focusing screen that you have installed in your 200 body? I'd like to have the best, brightest one available. For the 203FE, what type am I looking for? AccuMatte? Does Bill Maxwell make a screen for the 203FE?

 

Thanks.

[q.g._de_bakker]

Mark,<br><br>The version of the Acute Matte screen that was made for the 203 has a circle of tiny dots on it, marking the metering area. The later Acute Matte D version has two D-shaped notches in the metal rim nect to the screen.<br>Could well be, though, that the original screen was changed for another one. Then, an Acute Matte D screen can still be recognized by the notches. An non-D Acute Matte by the fact that when you hold it up to the light, a coarse cell-structure faintly appears, showing colour spectra. The reference cross on Acute Matte screens is not printed on in black ink, and becomes invisible when the screen is not lit from below.<br>Older, non-Acute Matte screens have the reference marks applied in thick lines of black ink.<br>But there are many sub-types, and perhaps you can show us which one(s) you have?<br><br>I believe the Acute Matte screens are as bright as you can get, and that Mawell screens are not better in that respect. The older, non-Acute Matte screens however - though dimmer - are easier to focus.

[mark_tucker2]

I notice that, on one of my WL Finders for the 203, there is a notation on it that says "-1". Does this mean that the pop-up loupe encased in the Finder has some degree of magnification to it?

 

Is there a chart somewhere that equates your eyeglass prescription to what number of Hasselblad Diopter?

 

Is there any difference in WL Finders, between a 200-series and a 500-series? I located a very clean demo body 203FE, but it shipped without a WL Finder.

 

Thanks.

[q.g._de_bakker]

Mark,<br><br>An eyepiece makes the image you are looking at appear at a certain virtual viewing distance. People found that the standard eyepiece made i difficult to see the display properly. So they changed the eyepiece, and did so simply by inserting one of the correction lenses that already was available, instead of the standard eyepiece.<br>The magnification remains (as near as) the same.<br><br>Wildi's Hasselblad Manual (the latest edition is out now) contains some charts, yes. But basically, the number on the correction lens should correspond with your eyeglass description. <br><br>The display in the 200-series cameras (all but 201 F) is why there indeed is a difference between 200-series viewfinders and 500-series viewfinders. The base plate of the finder needs a cut out, else it will hit the display and do soem damage to it.<br>The viewfinders that are safe to use on the 200-series cameras are marked by two short blue lines on the side.

[mark_tucker2]

Mr de Bakker,

 

Yes, I remember that now -- that cut-out that allows for seeing the readout!

 

I've been searching on ebay, wondering how you'd know if a WL Finder was blue line or not, since they're rarely shot with the finder open.

 

Thanks for the other info. Will find the Wildi manual; great reference.

[dan_n1]

hi all,

 

One more time, thanks to you all for ideas and suggestions.

 

I come back here to give some follow up on my new gear... and may be will come back more often to bother you... :-)

 

allright I got a full set up from a person that saw my post on this board..

 

- 205 FCC / 80mm lens / 150mm lens / 1.4Xe converter / motor drive winder / 2 E12 backs / PM45 prism / Manfrotto

Carbon One tripod / Cambo ball head

 

I start to learn how to use the 205 FCC and I am thinking about a backup body...

 

dan

[stephen_pitts]

Dan,

 

The majority opinion above seems to favour the 203 (center weighted meter); I have both the 203 and 205, and use

the former as my back-up camera or when I really want to shoot quickly. The 205 is my favorite camera in the world

for the same reasons that everyone likes the 200 series in general but I also enjoy the spot metering of the 205 and

the ECC-12 backs which allow you to use the zone system for black & white with great convenience. With these

backs, you can automatically adjust a dial on the film back to dial in zone 7 after you have fixed zone 3. Its

marvelous. And with today's films, medium format black & white is pretty impressive. For colour, I still love the 205 --

I choose zone 6 to set the exposure (a grey card is typically zone 5, a caucasian face is zone 6). Anyhow, you'll

have great fun and I would suggest trying to get the 110f2 lens. Its pretty special (and then the 40IF lens). Some of

the old Hasselblad/Zeiss lens have filled many of these forum discussions (the 38 Biogon SWC, the 40IF, the 110f2,

the 120 Macro, the 180f4, and the 250f5.6, 350f5.6 and 300f2.8 suprachromats) are still today legendary in their

performance and characteristics.

 

Its a wonderful to discover.

 

Enjoy.

 

Cheers,

 

Steve

[jon_paul4]

<p >Hello All: Your forum is most interesting and perceptive, I might be able to contribute: <br /><br /><br />I am a retired Electronic engineer, and I have had Hasselblads for over 30 yrs, mostly CT* lenses and SWC/500C/EL/ELM bodies. In about 1993 I got the 205TCC. An amazing camera, but very tricky to use. </p>

<p > </p>

<p ><br />1/ The 205TCC has a backup memory to store changes made via Pr mode, e.g. film speed default for non-TCC magazines. That backup is responsible for the battery drain when its off. The 205TCC It also uses red and green LEDs to show dedicated flash use and insufficient light indication: Those big LEDs eat a lot of power too. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Question: There are 3 different types of PX28 style 6V battery: Silver Oxide, Alkaline and lithium! That may make a difference. Any experience in using the different types? (see #4 below).</p>

<p > </p>

<p >2/ Jamming: The manual crank, center button was meant for intentional double exposures. It will clear a jam. This feature is not documented officially! It took me some time to recall that after a recent jam, as there is no other possible recovery! </p>

<p >3/ CCD Digital backs: The Phase One digital backs (H5,H10,H20, H25) cannot be used with any focal plane V type Hasse. The CCD and IR filter extend about 1 mm into the film plane! </p>

<p > </p>

<p >However, the Sinar 54M 22M pixel backs will work with the V series adapter plate as the CCD and IR filter are flush! </p>

<p > </p>

<p >See: http://www.sinarbron.com/sb54sam_new/sb54main.php</p>

<p > </p>

<p >4/ Using this amazing back and my 205TCC and a 110mm f/2, I have wonderful results!</p>

<p >The Sinar back uses the 205TCC flash contact to actuate the image capture. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Has anyone tried this? </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Question: The release is intermittent: You actuate the 205TCC shutter, the camera runs normally and flash if attached works fine. BUT sometimes the digital back will not actuate, flash or no flash. It is not ghe Sinar or connecting cord: Going to another body/lens all works perfectly! </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Does anyone have experience with either flash or digital backs on the 205TCC/FCC etc? Is the flash contact somehow weaker than other cameras? Or affected by the choice of battery? Has anyone found a flash amplifier/extender that can stregnthen a weak flash PC contact? That might help. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Kind Regards! </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Jon</p>

<p > </p>

[paul_harris16]

<p>Whew, what an education. I just got my first Hassy, a 205 FCC. Thank you all. Paul Harris</p>