Error in filter factoring?

[jorge_gasteazoro4]

C. J. Not necesarily, if you wish to test for your factor I would

test for zone III or IV since these are the zones with the most

important information, in addition I would do it in the shadow to

recreate the color most likely to be present when you photograph.

When I did this I used a color chart and it was great for information

so I would use this too. I did it for Zone V because I calibrated my

printing times to ZOne V as opposed to Zone I as most people do.

[steve_gangi2]

Hahaha I see another argument in the making :)

For *negative film* the general approach is to meter for Zone 3. You

decide which area is the darkest one for which you want to keep

detailed. Then, you adjust the development for the highlights. This

is what Ansel Adams says in his books. For slide or transparency

film, the general practice is to meter Zone 7. If you are as lazy as

me, then measure the dark area and the light area, see what the

spread or "scene brightness range" is. Then depending on the spread,

decide what you are willing to block up, blow out, turn into mud

etc. Let the games begin!

[jorge_gasteazoro4]

Actually Steve I agree with you, and when I am in a hurry I do the

same as you, check the spread and decide on developing.

I guess I should not have assumed C.J. was using B/W neg film. With

transparency you are correct and should meter for the highlight thus

CJ would have to tailor his method depending on what he is using.

[steve_gangi2]

Well, you said you calibrate in order to get a good print. That's

the whole idea anyway, so you are right. It seems a lot of people

are using color slide film though, so that's why I brought it up.

When there is a chance to get an exceptional picture for showing off

at work, I generally use TMax 100 and before shooting, my favored way

is to meter, double check, take a test Polaroid (Polaroid 54 is a

nice proofer for TMax 100), and then shoot. The two films don't have

exactly the same characteristics, but this makes for a good "sanity

check". Tmax is sort of sensitive to changes in development

time/temperature though, so consistency is a must.

[jorge_gasteazoro4]

Yes I calibrated with both TMX and TMY, but now after I tried ACROS

on 8x10 I am getting away from TMX. It does not blow the highlights

as easily as TMX does, the only problem is I have not been able to

find it in 4x5 which is my format of choice for enlargement. BTW

ACROS with filters looks great, you are going to get beautiful skies

if you use an orange or red filter.

[steve_gangi2]

Do you have a good paper cutter? If so you might be able to cut the

8x10 sheets down. I never tried it, but others have. And yes, TMax

is a bit "contrasty". But, sometimes you get something that makes

you say "Oh yeah". It's great in shots where you want to "pump it

up" a little - just like Velvia can "pump up" a bland scene in

color.

[jorge_gasteazoro4]

Yeah I have a good paper cutter, but I tried that before with Pan XX

and needless to say it was not a big success.......

I guess I just will keep checking Badger until they have it.