Best lens to use with my 30D for studio photography

[eyob_kidanmariam]

I am diving into Studio Photography and would like to get suggestion on what lens to use. Since space is an

issue, I am thinking Wide Angle lens. My make shift studio is approximately 14X20.

[chrisjb]

what sort of budget? I`d suggest start sigma 30 f1.4, then 50 f1.4 (f1.2 if have money), then 85mm 1.8 :)

[phil_duff]

For a tight budget and space also don't rule out the Canon 50mm 1.8. A nice lens for about $90.

[jason_hall5]

The lens in the range that Chris points out is about your best bets. A set of primes like that will do you better than a zoom that covers the same range. Not to mention the fast apertures that are great for portraits and shallow DOF. Also good if you decide to use natural window light or hot lights.

 

Jason

[anthony_zipple]

What do you have already? What will you need for other things?

 

The suggestions for primes make sense, unless you have other needs that might be better met with a zoom that can double for your studio needs. A 24-70 f/2.8 is a great lens in the studio with a 30D and its cropped sensor. Other than special situations, I would not go wider in the studio than the 24 (times 1.6). At the longer end it is a fine portrait lens. And it is a very useful lens for weddings, events, and as a general walking around lens.

[tim_klimowicz]

As much as I love the Sigma 30 1.4, I'd have to caution against it in this individual case.

 

For one, the corners are soft throughout the entire aperture range. I, personally, like this, as it fits my style of shooting.

But for studio shots, though, I imagine you'd probably want as pristine an image as possible from the camera.

 

Second, it only stops down to f/16 MAX. While this may be fine for most people (especially if you want to maintain the

best image quality by shooting in its sweet spot of 5.6 - 8.0), my girlfriend also shoots in a very small studio (10'x10'),

and has a lot of trouble controlling light. Your studio is a bit bigger, so you may not have as much a problem, but she

shoots with 1000 w/s heads, and even powered down as low as they go, she still often has to stop down to f/22 (not with

this lens, of course) in order to keep from overexposing too much. It's real tough and very limiting, so make sure you

consider this as well...

 

Of course, you could always pick up some ND gels for the lights to get around this, though...

[alan_green4]

consider the ef-s 60. extremely sharp/bright.

[alan_myers]

Your lens choice totally depends on what you'll be shooting in your studio.

 

If it's portraits, with a crop sensor camera you'll likely want nothing wider than 30 to 35mm, and a 50mm or longer would be better. Any wider lens is more an "environmental portrait" lens that's used for groups or to show the person's surroundings, but is more prone to distortions that can be pretty disastrous in portraits unless you look out for them.

 

For portraits you'll probably also want a larger aperture lens, so that becomes a consideration. However, it's not so much for speed as it is to control background, which you may also be able to control directly.

 

If it's table-tops and macro, you might use the TS-E 45mm or 50mm macro, or a Sigma 70, or Canon or Tokina 100mm, or Sigma 105mm, depending upon exactly the distances and magnifications you'll be working.

[rocco1]

Sounds like the best lens to get is a bigger studio. Keep field of view in mind - anything shorter than about 50mm is going to give you distorted faces on a short range... And no lens is going to fix that!

[JDMvW]

I'm assuming that you mean to do portraits?

 

On a 15x22mm sensor camera, anything shorter than about 28mm is going to make noses seem big etc. Traditionally,

the most common 35mm (24x36mm film) lenses for portraiture were seen as between about 75mm up to about 105mm. The

'beau idéal' of portrait lenses was a classic Zeiss 85mm lens with a wide aperture. These still sell for big

prices at auctions, At this focal length, noses were neither enlarged nor flattened out, but presented in a

slightly flattering way.

 

To get the equivalent of the classic 85-105mm lengths on your 30D, you need a prime at the roughly 50mm focal

length up to a 65mm length. There's not much out there at that latter length, but there is the very fine EF-S

60mm f/2.8 Macro. The only catch is that a macro lens may be "too sharp" for portrait work. Of course, you can

always slap on a diffusing filter or post process. Also f/2.8 is not for low light. Also, this lens only works on

crop-body cameras.

 

However, I think the lens you can use most will be one of the EF 50mm lenses. They range from the already

mentioned and incredibly cheap 50mm f/1.8 (¢), to the lovely f/1.4 ($$) to the spectacular f/1.2 ($$$). For a

"normal"

lens, it is hard to beat the 35mm f/2 ($) (which will be the same as a film 56mm lens on the 30D with its 1.6X

effect).

 

A good 28-80mm or so zoom might be good, some of these were sold in the past as kit lenses, so are cheap. They

will not substitute for the primes, but would be nice supplement to them.

[JDMvW]

Oh, if it's a garage or room in your house, you may want to check out zoning restrictions on home businesses. If, you don't, your neighbors will.

 

If it can be worked out, consider a north facing skylight and or window that can be blackened out, for that painterly natural light.