No FLASH allowed at a Wedding! what to do?

[picturesque]

Richard, have you confused the lens mentioned with the 24-105mm f4L? The 28-105mm that Brittany mentions is a consumer grade lens with a 3.5/4.5 maximum aperture. It doesn't have IS.

[tendyke]

Yes, I was thinking of the L. So that means a tripod.<div></div>

[paul_russell1]

If you are the designated 'tog, then use a fast lens, I don't understand churches placing this stipulation on offical togs.

 

I understand the 'togs placing this request on the assembly to avoid triggering their slave ran flashes.

 

If you are not the official tog then hell, just enjoy the day, leave your camera at home.

[wclark5179]

Attend the rehearsal. Have your selling shoes on. I did a wedding at a fancy schmancy church downtown Mpls and the

wedding coordinator was right on cue to point out that I was low class and wouldn't be allowed anywhere in the sacred

church during the wedding ceremony.

 

"O.K" I said.

 

The priest walks, spys me, and he said, "you know, I'm looking for a digital camera and haven't the fogest idea what to

get?'

 

Bang, I proceed to talk to jim for about 20 minutes. As we end the conversation, I asked, "Father where can I take pics

during the wedding ceremony?" He said, "I trust your judgement, just check with the bride."

 

Turn a situation toward your benefit. Doesn't work all the time, but why not give it a chance?

 

Put your sellin' shoes on.

 

Get it done!

 

Good luck.

[buffdr_rasouliyan]

Some great responses so far, if I may add, when you shoot a scene try to take about 3 or 4 shots back to back. Each time think about holding it more steady and allow the camera to re-focus again. I find in low light that my 2 or 3rd shots are sharper than my first shot. Good luck, v/r Raz

[phill1]

Best answer: Never ever plan on using flash during the ceremony.

[fotografz]

Equipment is not a substitute for experience and skill ... but it helps you to be prepared to face any challenge.

 

No flash during a ceremony is the rule not the exception. Fact is, you must be prepared to face a broad variety of lighting

situations and know what to do in every single case. If you don't want to invest in the proper equipment so you are

prepared, then it will eventually bite you. A new Canon 50/1.8 or used Canon 50/1.4 is a small investment ... so is a tripod

and cable release.

[jc5066]

I can not believe some of the responses. Whats the big deal? 90% of the weddings I shoot, flash is not allowed.

 

If you're going to shoot weddings, you better learn how to shoot low light with-out a flash.

[russ_konrad]

<b>"...OR use my flash anyway (I usually bounce my flash anyway, so it's not as distracting). I would rather not have to argue with the church but I feel that this is not normal considering the church is not historic...."</b>

<p>

We never use flash during any indoor ceremonies.

<p>

Personally, I am not aware of any professional wedding photographer that does use a flash during the ceremony.

<p>

The best way to get banned permanently from a church (and possibly other churches in the area) is to go against the wishes of the minister/priest/officiant and rules of the church.

[peter_ferling]

I have to agree with Mr. Curtis, and it's not only weddings that flash should be avoided. (Frankly I love this,

you suddenly realize that your fancy digital gear means squat, and it all comes down to technique). I shoot on

location for events and in the hospital operating rooms. If you train yourself, you can learn to shoot well in

dim lit environs.

 

Yes, bring a lightweight tripod, and you can extend and then fold the legs together in cramped corners to work as

a more sturdy monopod. Best get one with a quick release plate.

 

It's best to shoot folks before they start to proceed down the isle, when they are waiting at the threshold and

are still for a few moments. You will note that just as they begin to stroll, they will compose themselves and

smile.. (click).

 

Forget autofocus, this is not a sports event. Learn to focus manually.

 

Learn to track and follow movement. Good practice is stand alongside a busy road, during lot during low light

hours, and track and follow cars as they drive by. Shoot as different angles and distances, and use the same

gear you intend on bringing into the event. This will give you confidence and you will learn new habits.

 

Most of all, have fun. I hear of too many photographers complaining about not having fun anymore -for them, they

should put the cameras away and allow us to take on the work. See it for what it is and challenge yourself.

[ned1]

I've been able to shoot natural light with my camera on a tripod, f2.8, ISO800. The tripod is a must. Even leaning against a pillar is not good enough. I just set up in the balcony with a 200mm lens and take as many pictures as I can, hoping to find enough without motion blur. Boring but gets the job done under hard circumstances.

 

The processional will be a serious problem. I've never and would never attempt that. I would do everything you can to insist on a flash for it. Otherwise you'll have to explain to whoever is paying for it that they will have to pony up for the rental of a D3.

[stephen_delear]

If you're in a big city (say New York) call around and see if any shops still have a Canon 50mm F/1 (that's right f one) for rent. If you can't get images with that at ISO 3200 you might ask why they need a photographer for a Ceremony that's being held in pitch black (ok possibly a bit of an exaggeration but back in the day that lens had a reputation for taking shots when it was to dark for the photographer to see!).

[mikeseb]

Let me pile on. Abide by the rules if you can't diplomatically lobby for an exception. Shoot natural light at the highest

ISO you can, with the fastest lens you can. Scouting is a must so you know what you're going to face. A tripod is

also essential in this situation, where the subjects will be relatively static (at the altar).<br /><br />

 

<i>...I'm not fully professional...<br />

...I'm still somewhat amatuer [sic]...

</i>

<br /><br />

 

Which is it? Being a professional means charging enough to cover your costs and make a profit. If you can't do this,

then you are underselling yourself and hurting your colleagues as well. If you can't get work at the prices you must

charge in order to remain profitable, something has to give. Lower your cost structure, or improve your work so that

higher rates are justified. Do you have a business plan?

<br /><br />

 

Rent or buy what you need, charge for it appropriately. You are either a pro--and you act like one--or you are not.

You can't be both pro and amateur. When you are on the job and getting paid, you are a pro.

[lou korell]

If you have an inconspicuous place to stand with a tripod by all means a tripod will help but if you do you are almost certainly restricted to one spot and one spot only for the whole ceremony.

I think a lot of people don't use tripods for weddings today, not because of the ability to use high iso and handhold the lenses but because it restricts your movement.

 

Some weddings have things occur where you need to rapidly...and quietly....change your vantage point.

If you are hooked to a tripod you are stuck. Yes, you can unhook to move but if you do change your location you risk getting the darn tripod in the shot!

 

Bad enough there may already be a videographer with a huge tripod in your way. :)

 

Lou

[christopher hartt dallas]

"Not fully professional"...like saying you're 'not fully pregnant'. Either you are or you aren't.

 

If you "Are", invest the time, money and intensity needed to do the job right. If you aren't, think of some good excuses you can tell the bride about why she has poor quality pictures of the biggest day in her life.

[William Michael]

As mentioned by others, it is common for many venues not to allow flash during the service proper, (i.e. from and

including the Presentation to the Nuptial Blessing). Some venues do not allow any flash at all, in situ.

 

There are many threads on this issue: although late in the day for this event, I advise you research this issue, a good

beginning point would be to use the photonet search function: < no flash ceremony >

 

You might find my (repetitive) comments pertaining to Professional Reconnoitre; acquiring information from Primary

Sources; and subsequent Negotiation . . .

 

In summary:

 

1. WHO told you the rules?

 

2. What are the REAL rules?

 

3. Communicate / Negotiate with the KEY people to get the rules straight.

 

4. Follow the rules

 

And also you should address this: ``I was informed five days before a wedding``, which indicates an hiccup in, or lack

of adequate preparation procedures. (Professional Reconnoitre)

 

I think that 1 from 6 Weddings with a ``no flash rule`` is neither here nor there as a statistic to evaluate much, as the

sample group is not that large, is it?

 

Also the fact (or not) of the Church being ``historic`` is irrelevant: I have covered Civil Ceremonies, where Flash was

not permitted

 

 

***

 

If you do go with the option of a renting / buying a fast prime lens for your 40D, and as you mention cost is a factor,

then the EF 35F2 would be a more flexible, budget solution than the EF50F1.8MkII, IMO.

 

This would be especially so, if your second camera is APS-C format.

 

I suggest the 35mm, firstly in regard to the comparative Fields of View: in a tight spot the 35mm will be more useful

than the 50mm.

 

I also endorse the previous advice, that if you do use a fast prime at a wide aperture, (not a ``low`` aperture), you are

aware of the depth of field you have (or do not have) available. This is the other main reason why I suggest the

EF35F2 would be a more flexible choice, in some circumstances it will allow compositions with a greater Depth of

Field at wide apertures, and perhaps the 35mm prime would be a safer choice, as you indicate your lack of

experience with this situation.

 

***

 

In regard to choosing the option to employ a tripod / monopod and use your existing zoom lens: I concur with the

advice to choose the moment of least subject movement: this is very important ant.

 

***

 

Which ever of these two options you choose, it is necessary to understand the Shutter Speed requirements to freeze

subject motion and to also understand that standing subjects are very rarely still. In this regard mostly I look for

1/125s as the slowest SS: but that is a guide, not a prescriptive.

 

That said, all this is just theory, because I have been in Churches where I needed F1.4 @ 1/60 @ ISO1600 as a

starting point: the point is none of us knows how dark (or light) the Church will be, or what cloud cover or not will

make that perhaps 3 EV less.

 

 

 

WW

[markonestudios]

Brittany, seeing as it is now pretty late in the day for this, I would reiterate what has been said earlier. Get yourself some faster glass like the Canon 50 f/1.8 or f/1.4. The 40D performs well at high ISO, so don't be afraid to go there. You can tone down the noise in post-processing using appropriate software. I wholly agree, your challenge here is going to be technique more than equipment, so you will need to practice

<p>Also, make sure you have spoken to the couple beforehand so that you manage their expectations, and confirm about the no-flash issue with the minister, explaining that you are the official photographer.

[andy_jay1]

I am based in Ireland and shoot weddings here. I find that most Priests are very reasonable and it really is important to be able to have a quite chat with them prior to the wedding.. Go to the venue a few days before the event if possible, at the same time of day and calculate where the light is entering the church. Once you know where you stand with the priest it is easier to work out your plan of action on the day. I agree that it is difficult to work without flash whilst the Bride is walking down the Isle, but again a pause before they start will help you to get the shot in the bag. Being able to work round most situations and the ability to adapt is the mark of a professional - of course having the right gear is important and a fast lens will indeed help .. Good luck.. !