Denali and Katmai

[ed_lino]

It has been a dream of mine for a long time to visit these two places

in Alaska; however, I would like to read some suggestions in the form

of "hiking plan" format. In spite of the bear encounter possibilities

and its risks, I really want to hike some, camp for a day or two,

cook my own meals, photograph the wilderness a lot (Denali and Wonder

lake reflections and the like), and most of all experience the

solitude and the wonder of Alaska, then drive some more to Katamy and

the above all over again. My vacation is two weeks (June 2000) and I

want to make the best of it all. So, I will really thank you all for

some feed back, anything that you can think of.

[grigory_felshteyn]

Odessa.

[ron_niebrugge]

Denali is a wonderful place. I go there a couple times each year, and spend as much time as possible. I would strongly recommend obtaining your reservations for the Wonder Lake campground, and your bus pass in far in advance. You can not book backcountry passes in advance, but you could try for one once you arrive, while keeping your Wonder Lake site as a back-up. I will say the backcountry passes for the Wonder Lake area are very popular, and you may have a couple of day wait. At least in June, especially early June, Denali is much slower then later in the summer, which will increase you chances. The Wonder Lake campground is at the wrong end of the lake for Denali reflections, so that is where the backcountry pass can be of value. Forget riding the bus with the hope of a good Denali Shot. Even the 5:30 a.m. bus does not get to Wonder Lake until 10:00 a.m. or later - many hours after sunrise. In fact in June you may want to reverse you schedule and sleep days and photograph at night, because it really won't get completely dark at that time of year. I have become very tired trying to chase late and early light in June.

 

I would also strongly recommend the book Denali Journal by Tom Walker. I have read the book repeatedly, it is very enjoyable and will give you a great feel of what you can expect at that time of year. I believe the book is out of print, so you may have trouble finding it.

 

I have lived in Alaska for 25 plus years and have not heard of Katmay, maybe you mean Katmai? I have not been there yet, but I can tell you that you can't drive there. You need to fly to King Salmon. Enjoy your trip!

[carsten tschach photograph]

> The Wonder Lake campground is at the wrong end of the lake for

> Denali reflections, so that is where the backcountry pass can be

> of value.

 

As I'm also travelling to Alaska (and Denali) in a week, I like to

know which is THE place to make Denali reflection photo's. The

problem is, that will meet with a friend but I didn't really know

when this will be, so I'm unable to make a reservation for a

specified day. Any places you could reach by car (or 20 minutes walk

without a backcountry permit)?

 

Thanks, Carsten

[joe_boyd]

Carsten,

<P>

You can't drive more than 15 miles beyond the entrance in a private vehicle. You have to take park buses to access the entire length (80+ miles) of the park road. The buses make frequent stops to let people on and off at their choosing. So you can get off at a spot that looks or is known to be interesting walk around for awhile and then catch another bus going in either direction on the road. A fee is charged for the bus ride. Check the Denali website for specifics <a href="http://www.nps.gov/dena/home.html">http://www.nps.gov/dena/home.html</a href>.

<P>

Backcountry passes are only needed if you overnight in the park.

[terry_danks]

I spent a great deal of time in Denali (McKinley back then) in the late sixties and very early seventies. The apparently infamous, albeit necessary, shuttle bus system was being introduced even back then. I recall a disgruntled photographer getting out of a bus at Stony Hill Overlook. He was very upset in that he had travelled all that distance to get to the park but was being frustrated by being confined to the bus with its stops being less frequent and shorter than he would like. He was not a happy camper that day. I was content, in my own vehicle. On another occasion I picked a couple up after we chatted when a bus pulled up beside me in Sable Pass and gave them a leisurely trip back to their camp at Savage River However private autos were permitted even then after Labor Day. I usually went during that period.

I was very fortunate to be able to see this beautiful place in days when access was much less restricted than seems the case now. I have many photos on my web site taken in the park from those days. The URL is http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/danksta/home.htm

Unfortunately, I had only a minimum of equipment too . . . . only a slow 400mm lens of mediocre quality in the way of a telephoto.

It is a magic place . . . or at least was back then.

 

A very interesting book is "The Wilderness of Denali" by Charles Sheldon who pioneered this park in the early days of the century.

[ron_niebrugge]

Charsten,

 

Many photos of Mt McKinley's reflection are taken at Wonder Lake. The nice thing about Wonder Lake is there are often moose feeding on the lake bottom. This spring a swan was using that end of the lake, and there are almost always beavers as well.

 

"THE" place I believe you are asking about is a little pond along the side of the road near Wonder Lake called Reflecting Pond. There is even a sign identifying the pond. Because it is much smaller, wind ripples seem to be much less of a problem then on Wonder Lake. You see a lot of published photos taken from that pond. There are numerous other ponds in that area of the park that are ideal for refections of the mountain. Some require a little hiking, but offer a more unique view of the mountain.

[phil_sedgwick]

I just returned from a trip to Alaska and one of the places that I visited was Brooks River in Katmai Nat'l Park. The park is teaming with bears. You can not drive to Brooks, you must go by boat or float plane. Float plane being the most popular.

 

There are a number of air taxis that fly from King Salmon, Homer and Anchorage. It's a bit pricey at about $500 (out of Homer and Anchorage) but worth the money IMHO. I don't know what the flight costs out of King Salmon, but round trip from Anchorage to King Salmon was $240 so I took it off my list. You can not hike in Katmai that I know of, but there is a lodge where you can stay.

 

Another option if you want the true wilderness experience is McNeil. If you can get a permit (there is a lottery system) you will get to spend 4 day camping with a total of eight folks allowed in at one time. Though I did not go to McNeil, I understand the bear viewing is very good, but not as good at Brooks River.

 

Homer was nice, I was able to find eagles (which are everywhere really) and moose less than a 30 minute drive from the lodge.

 

If seeing bears is important to you, remember that the salmon start running sometime in July. No bears fishing when there are no fish