Error 99 with my EF50mm 1.8 - please help!

[joshua_goodey1]

Hi all,

 

I bought a Canon EF50mm 1.8 off ebay about 8 months ago, and recently it has been playing up - quite frequently I

get an 'error 99' message and the shutters freeze in their open position. This takes several switches on/off and

a few presses of the shutter to rectify and is very frustrating!

 

I have cleaned the lens and camera contacts with an eraser but this still happens. Also, this has never happened

with any of my other lenses. I am using a Canon 350D.

 

Has anyone else experienced this? I know the error 99 is a non specific message so I am none the wiser as to what

the problem is.

 

Short of sending to Canon or even replacing the lens(!) does anyone have nay advice?

 

Thank you!

[yakim_peled1]

Does it work with other cameras?

 

Happy shooting,

Yakim.

[joshua_goodey1]

Good question! I don't own any other SLRs so will have to test when I get a chance with a friends, or perhaps in a shop...not sure when that will be unfortunately. I will post if I get an answer!

[juans eye]

Here is an Error 99 troubleshooting site.

 

http://www.richardsnotes.org/archives/2005/04/29/50mm-lens-contact-points/

[chrisjb]

I had probs before similar, sometime just a simple clean may not remove crud on the contacts, check with magnifying lens. Also if the mount is slightly loose it can get of contact, move the lens in the mount to check. I have a TC like this. another check put in `M` mode f22, press DOF button VF goes dark and release to see if blades move freely...HTH :)

[joshua_goodey1]

Thanks for the advice everyone.

 

Chris - I've tried your checks, the mount seems firm to me so I don't think that should be a problem. Trying DOF preview at f22, this seems it may be the issue. Pressing DOF preview, 1 in 10 previews the shutters stick. Is there anything that can be done about this or any reason this may be happening?

[chrisjb]

Occasonally a lens that has not had a lot of use can get minute amounts of oil on the aperture blades, this causes them to stick. To see this you put the camera f22 hold the DOF button and remove the lens. The lens should remain at f22 for inspection.

 

If it looks like the blades have something on them, 1: patiently click away at small aperture and hope it frees up or 2: have it cleaned, any good camera repair person should be able to do it.

 

Hopefully all it is HTH

[chrisjb]

BTW, be aware this lens is not expensive so weigh up the odds :)

[alan_myers]

I'd strongly suggest something *other than* a pencil eraser.

 

I really don't know why Canon suggests using an eraser on their website and via their tech services. I've had some camera repair and electronics repair training, and it's been a sort of sideline and hobby of mine for years. In my opinion, a pencil eraser is a *very bad idea*.

 

First of all.. most erasers are made from... vegetable oil! (The pink ones certainly are.)

 

Hey! We're trying to *remove* oils here. This is usually what's causing the problem on the contacts in the first place (often finger oils in this case, or oils from lubrication inside the camera)!

 

Even a thin coating of oil can interrupt the flow of electrical currents, especially very small ones like those used for camera-to-ens communications.

 

In addition, erasers leave crud behind, they crumble and shed particles like crazy (that's how they "erase" in the first place, but picking up the print and crumbling away with it).

 

I *really* don't want that crap inside my camera. That's why they tell you to tilt the camera downward... but that's not good enough for me!

 

Plus some types of erasers have abrasives in them that might scratch the gold plating on those contacts!

 

Instead I suggest you try cleaning all the contacts with a small, clean, lint free rag that's been moistened slightly with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. A small piece of paper towel or facial tissue could be carefully used instead of a rag. The isopropyl alcohol will remove oils and clean up the contacts better than an eraser!

 

You can buy "contact cleaners" at electronic stores... But before spend $5 or $10 on a small bottle there, I suggest you read the contents. Most are "70% isopropynol, 30% purified water". Exactly the same as the "rubbing alcohol" from your local pharmacy or grocery store, where you'll get 16 oz. for $1 to $2.

 

Do not use "Color TV Tuner/Contact Cleaner & Lubricant" found in electronics stores. This is different and leaves a coating of "lubrication" behind . This often contains mineral spirits... So leave an oil of sorts.

 

Also do not use common cotton buds or "Q-Tips" to do this cleaning. They shed a lot of tiny, tough fibers that can get into mechanisms, like camera shutters, to jam them up completely and expensively.

 

Finally, DeOxit is another contact cleaner, and a good one at that (www.micro-tools.com and elsewhere). But, it's designed to remove oxidization, as well as oils. These particular contacts are gold-plated, specifically because gold doesn't oxidize, so shouldn't require this type of contact cleaner.

[joshua_goodey1]

Thanks guys for all your help, much appreciated. Hopefully I'll get to the bottom of it soon!

 

Josh.

[benradvanyi]

Is this the older medal mound 50mm 1.8? I have played around with one in the past and they do not work with newer DSLRs. If it is a newer one(plastic) you may have an issue with the actual diaphram sticking open or the lens being faulty. No offense but this is what happens with buying lenses off of ebay. People are there to get rid of their faulty equipment. It has happened to me where I got a faulty sigma 120-300 2.8 and sigma wasn't able to fix it. It is a hard loss but you have to suck it up. At least you only got a $100 lens this time. Hope this helps.

 

Ben