zoom lens for night race?

[marcomariano]

im going to watch "Singapore Formula 1 Grand Prix Night Race".

 

my question is, what zoom lens will suit this event? if the lighting will mimic the sunlight at highnoon, will

ordinary zoom like 55-250IS & 70-300IS enough? or one of the mighty siblings 70-200 f/2.8-4 IS? FL are limited

only at 300mm.

 

i know in american races such indycar, craftsman cup, or nascar has night races. did any of you used any of these

lens on the event?

 

btw, im using 40D.

 

thanks!

[yakim_peled1]

It might be enough but I would not take my chances. I had the 70-300 IS and it was O.K. in bright light but I never tried shooting racing cars. I'd much rather have ring USM and IF design.

 

Happy shooting,

Yakim.

[Jeff Lear]

Given the nature of a night F1 race, I would go with the fastest lens you can muster. I haven't seen the lighting scheme for Singapore but it is a street course so they will be somewhat limited compared to a stadium or dedicated facility. There are bound to be places on the track that are not as well lit as others. The nature of F1 is red/blue hot exhaust gas and glowing carbon brake discs, these things will be much more evident during a night race. I wouldn't take a chance on missing any of it by relying on the quality of the track lighting to determine the lens(es) I will bring.

 

I would also like to add that I am very jealous.

[adam_gifford]

Despite the lighting being really bright, i dont think its anywhere close to noon sun lighting. I know at baseball games that are litup like crazy you can barely see the lights on the field until it gets dark. (it only seems crazy bright because its pitch black out).

 

I'd have to guess you'll want f2.8 or better. It depends on where on the track you are. If they are going at top speed you need a faster shutter speed than if they've sped way down for a hard 90 / S.

 

That and you'll probably have to crank the ISO to get acceptable shutter speeds.

 

FYI, IS (image stabilization) won't help you here... the subject is moving. IS lets you have longer shutter speeds, but you need faster shutter speeds :)

 

Renting a 70-200 f2.8 (non-is, or is) might be something to try.

[buffdr_rasouliyan]

First I would scan the area with the most amount of light, hopefully around a sharp corner. I would also rent an EF 300mm f/2.8L IS and crank your ISO up until you achieve blur free pictures. Make sure you nail the exposures as there is not much you can do with an under expose high iso shot. BTW if your semi close to the track, you can use flash (if allowed), of course keep the driver's safety ahead of nice pictures. The 300 prime lens will yield much better shots than the zooms you have mentioned. Good luck and be safe. v/r Raz

[richard_martin10]

I've been shooting racing for many years and I can tell you night shots are the hardest. At the very least you should have a 70-200 2.8. Depending on how close you get an 85 1.8 could also be good. I have the 70-300 and it will only take me into early dusk before it is useless.

[marcomariano]

hi all! thanks alot for your precious inputs.

 

i think i have to get f/2.8 minimum aperture.

 

short listed will be 70-200/2.8 (IS or non-IS) or Sigma 120-300/2.8. i'll try to look around if i could rent one.

 

thanks, again!

[John Crowe]

You will have to crank up the ISO no matter what and in this case IS will not help much. Good panning technique will make IS unnecessary.

 

 

If you like your current zooms for general shooting you may want to save a lot of money and go with a Canon EF 200mm f2.8 L prime lens and even consider a 1.4x to go with it. Renting is also a good idea to get you into the 300/2.8 range.

[yakim_peled1]

Contrary to what other said, IS CAN help you achieve some type of pictures e.g. blurred cars over sharp background (to emphasize their speed) and panning.

 

 

Happy shooting,

Yakim.

[model mayhem gallery]

I shot a basebal game at night with an 85 1.2L the photos where so sharp and crisp at faster shuuter speeds tha even cropped my photos looked much better than my buddies who was shooting with an 70-200 F2.8 (non-IS). The key was much faster shutter speed to stop action and the 1.2 is SOO bright in low light it is east to see and focus.