10 D Canon Newbie

[cochran]

10 D Canon with a Canon 35-70 mm lens.

 

I need to learn how to use it in one week as I am going

to take a Nature photo workshop in Upper Michigan.

 

Any suggestions would be helpful.

I am a basic point and shoot man.

[wayne_campbell]

You have a great camera. On this site a lot of fine photos were taken with a 10D. It's a bit slower than the 20D but image quality

holds up well.

[JDMvW]

Get hold of a manual for it and

 

1) take as many pictures as you can before you go, trying things out as you work your way thru the manual

 

2) take the manual along for reference when you go.

 

When in doubt, use the P for program, and the camera will do as much as it can.

 

Some software, a firmware upgrade, and other information are available from Canon at

 

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&tabact=DownloadDetailTabAct&fcategoryid=314&modelid=8772#DownloadDetailAct

[chrisjb]

http://www.photo.net/learn/

 

I`d suggest to concentrate learning 3 modes `Av` M`Tv`, They are the modes that you will learn photography. just read and practice..HTH :)

[obakesan]

Hi

 

I'd agree with all the above and ask some clarification before I write more. What do you mean "I need to learn how to use it ..."

 

do you mean "I've never touched a camera, I have no idea what anything does and I've never thought about it before"

 

or

 

"I know 35mm cameras well, but I don't understand the interface because I've always used a mechanical camera (like an FM2 or Pentax K1000)"

 

or

 

"I understand 35mm cameras well, but some of these features such as setting colour temperature and other modes are a mystery to me"

 

With that answered, I'm sure we can all assist you better then.

 

I have a 10D and like it a lot (I'd like it more if it was full frame, but that's another story). I think the modes are distraction and mainly use only Av and M settings on the camera. When photographing scenery I use either OneShot focusing method or click my lens to M so that it doesn't "hunt focus" all over the place. If sports (rare for me) then I use AI Servo focusing.

 

over to you

[jaycobar-chay]

I started this last night and left it sitting since then, so I don't know if anyone has replied or not. Sorry if I repeat something already suggested...

 

I have a 10D. I leave it in Aperture Priority about 95% of the time. (That is the mode on the dial that reads Av).

 

When you select that mode, aperture is controlled by the wheel near the shutter button. In your viewfinder, as you look through it, you'll see two different numbers on the bottom. The numbers on the right represent the aperture setting. The numbers (depending on your lens) will run from small to large.

 

A small number on the right means a wide aperture, which will do two things:

1) let in more light than a larger number aperture setting, which allows for low light shooting, hand held shooting or fast action shooting

2) make the depth of field narrow, which will isolate your subject by bluring the background

 

A bigger number on the right means a smaller aperture which will do two things:

1)let in less light which requires longer shutter speeds, which may mean using a tripod, but can do things like capture water moving over a waterfall to make it look smooth and ethereal

2) give a deeper depth of field, making more things behind your subject in focus giving less blur, which is also good for "landscape" type photos

 

One thing to remember if shooting handheld, the number on the left in the viewfinder needs to be about the same as the focal length of the lens you are using. This will prevent motion blur, which is an operator error. Example: if you have a 50mm lens on the camera, then the number on the left needs to be about 45 or 60. Any less than that and you won't be holding the camera steady enough, unless your using a tripod or your hand held technique is good.

 

I can choose the aperture to controll depth of field, and the camera gauges what shutter speed I should use. If you don't trust it, you can set auto exposure bracketing in the menu to capture an under and over exposed image in adition to the "normal" image.

 

There are always times when this type of shooting won't work, and you have to do some other things with the camera. The best suggestion on how to learn to use it is to get out and shoot. With digital there is instant feedback and you start figuring things out faster than with film.

 

One thing to remember, don't trust the way the image looks on the screen of the camera to gauge exposure. It is usually much different in terms of lighting than what the real image looks like.

 

The 10D doesn't have a true spot meter, but it has enough of one. Learning how to use a grey card (or figuring out shades of grey in the composition you wish to shoot) and understanding how the meter sees the world will help more than anything in getting a good exposure, but I don't have the time to explain all that. Look around on the internet for some quick lessons on aperture, shutter speed, depth of field and controlling exposure.

 

Have fun.

[Stock-Photos]

<p>I've owned a Canon 10D since 2003.</p>

<p>Consider reading my <a href="http://www.saugus.net/Photos/photography_tips.shtml">digtal photography tips</a> page where hand held shutter speeds to focal length factor is discussed, near the end of the page.</p>

[jaycobar-chay]

Correction to the above.

 

The shutter speed needs to be AT LEAST the same as the focal length. It doesn't always have to be the same as the lens length. If you are shooting hand held, then the number on the left needs to be equal to the lens length OR GREATER to avoid motion blur. If you are using a tripod, you can get away with much less, and can even experiment with very long exposures of seconds or more.

 

While I'm here...

 

Keep the ISO to 400 or less. Use the 400 for "low light" environments and 100 or 200 for brighter light situations. Keep in mind the aperture you want to use and the required shutter speed you need, as this will help you find out if you can actually take the shot using the ISO you've chosen. The images will look best with the lower ISO, but choice is usually limited by your lens in combonation with the light you're shooting in. (You'll find out soon enough what I mean). You can use higher ISO than 400 if you need to, but unless you're good with post processing, it will be hard to make an image come out looking nice enough to please you. Pros know how to use this camera and photo editing to get more out of the higher ISO speeds, but I'm assuming you don't.

 

Keep a look out for the big wheel on the back. In my first week or so using the camera, I didn't realize that I had moved it a click or two and all my images were getting overexposed. The big wheel, if you so choose in the custom functions I believe, will shift exposure up or down. This allows an easy way to bracket a shot, but if you move the wheel and don't know it, it can sit there and it will mess up your shots. To check that this isn't the case, look on the top LCD and there will be a set of numbers that read -2 1 0 1 2+ These numbers are also on the right side of your viewfinder as you look through it. If there is a bar under the zero, your camera is set to "normal" expsure. If it is moved under one of the other numbers, it will under or over exposed.

 

The camera keeps this setting even after you turn it off and on, so if you don't know it's going on, you can see how you can mess up your shots.

[alan_myers]

Hi Robert,

 

Congratulations on getting the 10D. It's a super little camera. I bought one new when they first came out (it was

the first digital SLR to sell for under $2000 new) and enjoyed it a lot over the years. Still have it, as a

backup to a pair of 30Ds I use most of the time now.

 

You describe yourself as a "point and shoot" man. It would be helpful if you could give us some more specifics,

any areas you are not clear about.

 

Just based on that, I'd second the suggestion about getting a manual for the camera, if you don't already have

it. That's always a good starting point. You might be able to download it from Canon's website. (There's also a

"Canon Doc" website out there with many instruction manuals available online... Google for it.)

 

Also look for a Magic Lantern or similar guide book specific to the 10D. These typically pick up where the manual

leaves off, and can really be helpful with hints and tips that aren't offered in the manual, as well as more of

an overview how the camera fits into the entire Canon system. Amazon.com has these books, both new and used. Just

search for "Canon 10D" there and you'll find at least two or three.

 

As a "point and shooter", you may or may not be aware of some of the key advantages of an SLR. At the top of the

list is interchangeable lenses. For nature photography, a telephoto lens and possibly a macro are two key tools

that you might want to add to your kit. Among the longer telephotos, IS or Image Stabilization is a very useful

feature Canon offers on many of it's lenses. Theres a 70 or 75 to 300mm model with IS. And, there are more

expensive 70-200/4 IS and 70-200/2.8 IS lenses. These will all be useful for that type of photography. If you

mean wildlife, generally the longer the lens, the better. Other alternatives are primes like the 300/4 IS and

400/5.6 (which unfortunately still lacks IS). Far more expensive, 300/2.8, 400/2.8, 500/4, 600/4 and 800/5.6 all

have IS.

 

Now, back down to planet earth. If you like macro shooting, Canon's 100/2.8 USM is a great lens, but there are

some excellent macros from third party manufacturers, too. Among those are the Sigma 50/2.8 and 70/2.8, Tamron

90mm, Tokina 100/2.8 and Sigma 105mm, that I'd recommend, in particular. Of course, you can also just use

extension tubes, like those offered in sets by Kenko ($160) and Adorama (Pro Optic brand, under $100) with just

about any lens for close-up and macro work.

 

One thing about the 10D... It pre-dates Canon's introduction of EF-S lenses. So, a 10D *is not* directly usable

with any of the EF-S lenses they offer (there is a way to modify the lens to work, but you may not want to get

into that). You *do not* have the same limitation with third party "digital only" lenses.

 

Because it's a 1.6X crop sensor camera, it's a bit challenging to find a wide angle lenses, if that's something

you want for your nature work. Lenses like the Tokina 12-24/4 & 11-16/2.8, Sigma 10-22 and Tamron 11-22 can get

you wide angle coverage. Among these, personally I think the Tokina are the best. But, some other folks like the

other lenses, so be sure to check them out.

 

I alluded to this above, but if you are experienced with 35mm film photography and knowledgeable about lenses

used with those cameras, you will find the 1.6X factor important (which is a result of the smaller sensor in the

Canon 10D, as well as all the digital Rebels, 20D, 30D and 40D... other manufacturers have similar factors on

most of their digital SLRs.) This changes the way the focal lengths act on the "crop sensor" cameras, as compared

to when the same focal length was used on a 35mm film camera.

 

Basically, telephoto "reach" is increased (nice) while wide angle "wideness" is decreased (not so nice). So,

while your 35-70 performed as a "slightly wide to slightly telephoto" lens on a 35mm film camera, it will behave

as a "normal to slightly more telephoto" lens on the 10D (comparable to a 56-112mm lens on the film camera, if

such a lens existed).

 

Now, if you never used 35mm film cameras at all, you can simply forget all the above. It won't be relevant to you

because you don't have preconceived notions about how a focal length will behave, based upon the 35mm film format.

 

Suffice to say, you had a "normal to short tele" lens. If you want to add your focal lengths, you can simply add

wider (under 35mm) or longer (over 70mm) lenses. You don't need to cover every mm of focal lengths, nor do you

need to worry very much about slight overlaps.

 

A lot of nature workshops will emphasize using a tripod. But, you might want to check with the instructor to see

if they have any recommendations for what equipment to bring along.

 

I do suggest you get extra batteries for the 10D, especially if it came with the original BP511 or BP512. The 10D

is not easy on batteries (I get about 2X as many shots with my 30Ds). So, be sure to have spares and pack your

charger along. I recommend *not* getting Canon batteries. They are significantly more expensive than many third

party batteries, which are actually higher powered. You can use any BP511 or BP511A replacement battery. I bought

a bunch of "no name" batteries off eBay for around $6 each including shipping (compare to Canon's $45 to $50 ea.

plus shippng!) These have worked fine for me. But, if you prefer, Sterlingtek.com is another source that gets

high praise, and they sell BP511 for about half the price of Canon's batteries.

 

I use my 10D (and all my Canon's for that matter) with it's matching, BG-ED3 accessory vertical battery grip.

This gives me two main batteries, as well as a set of vertical controls that I use a lot. The 10D's battery grip

is nicer than the one for the later cameras! I recommend it. (Note: if you get a BG-ED3, the little switch under

your right hand's pinky finger turns the secondary/vertical controls on and off. This is to prevent accidental

exposures. It's turned "on" when the red dot is exposed.)

 

Also regarding battery usage, I suggest you set the "sleep" mode (called "Auto Off" in the menu) to a fairly

short duration, such as 2 or 4 minutes. You can change it in the menu. This helps save battery power, but there

will be a 2 or 3 second delay waking the camera back up (just tap the shutter button to wake it) from sleep mode.

Later Canon's wake up much faster, almost instantaneously.

 

Another thing you can do to lengthen battery life is minimize image playback on the LCD. You can set it so that

it doesn't display every image automatically, at all (in the menu, set "Review" to "off". That way you will have

to press the image replay button when you want to review an image, but that's not a big deal. (Note: you can also

change Custom Function 1 to option 4, to use the "Set" button for replay too.... I find this handy, since it's

under my right thumb). Finally, one other thing on the camera that uses up battery power fast is the internal

flash. I simply I never use mine on any of my cameras because it's not very powerful, gives ugly shadows and

causes redeye. It also doesn't tilt, bounce or swivel, all of which are helpful features of a flash. (Note: If

you use flash, I'd recommend a separate one... Any Canon EX model will do nicely, like the 420 or 430EX, or

550/580 EX...With it I suggest getting an Off Camera Shoe Cord, at least, and perhaps an accessory flash bracket

to use with it.)

 

A final point about batteries I want to mention is that the 10D (like all Canon D-SLRs) has a secondary, "memory"

battery, in addition to the bigger rechargeable battery that provides most of the power. On the 10D, you'll find

this under a round cover next to the main battery compartment. Unscrew the cover with a coin. The battery is a

CR2025 3 volt lithium, which is widely available for about $2 or less. These batteries have a life of about 5

years, so if you don't know if the one in your camera has ever been changed, it might be due. Removing this

battery will reset the camera to all it's factory defaults, losing custom function and menu settings you (or

someone else) might have made.

 

You will also probably want spare compact flash cards. These needn't be very big (2GB to 4GB) or very expensive

since the 10D doesn't produce huge files and isn't super fast writing to the cards. Most brand name 60X cards

will do just fine and are less expensive. (Sandisk Ultra II and many others) 120X, 133X and certainly 300X and

UDMA cards are simply a waste of speed for a 10D.

 

One thing, learn to format the CF card immediately after installing it in your camera. It's probably not

necessary to do every single time, but I make a habit of it with all my cameras. You'll find "Format" in the

menu, and if you have Custom Function 11 set to option 1, every time you press the "Menu" button it will take you

back to the last place you viewed... which is usually "Format" if you get in the good habit of formatting the

card every time you insert it in the camera. That makes this is a quick, simple thing to do. Formatting will wipe

off any images on the card, so be sure you have safely transfered them, before formatting any card. (Note: you

can also format a card with your computer. This is generally not a good idea, or at the very least should be

followed up by formatting it again in camera.)

 

The 10D can make great images. Because it's a 6MP camera, prints start to lose some detail at 13x19 and larger.

But, you can certainly make a great 11x14 or 8x10/12 from it (cropping images much will reduce this).

 

Learn to use the histogram displayed on the LCD, if you don't already know how. It's a super tool. The LCD isn't

big on the 10D, but it's perfectly adequate. No LCD, even the much larger and higher resolution ones on later

cameras, really is all that great for image playback, other than general checks. But, the histogram is a

wonderful thing to have to check your exposures. Learn how to read one (lots of info on the Internet about it)

and what it's telling you about your image.

 

I have my 10D (and other film & digital cameras) set to 1/3 stop exposure increments. On the 10D this is done

with Custom Function 6, option 1. One reason for this will be covered below, but basically I feel it's the most

accurate. It means that all your manual settings of aperture and shutter will be shown in 1/3 stop increments,

instead of 1/2 stop (which is the default setting).

 

The rear dial on the 10D is used to set exposure compensation in AV, TV and P modes. On this particular camera,

there's a separate switch right next to it to turn it on and off. This is like on earlier film cameras (I don't

know about D-SLRs... I didn't use any of them). Later and current cameras instead use a three position off/on

switch instead. This arrangement is "off", "on without the dial enabled" and "on with the dial enabled". But this

*is not* the case on your camera. It's a separate switch, marked "off/on", just above and slight left of the rear

dial. The reason for this switch is simple. It's turned off to prevent accidentally changing exposure

compensation, while using the camera in AV, TV or P modes. It's easy to bump that dial on the back, when shooting

or while carrying the camera.

 

Last tip I'd give you relates to exposure compensation. Go to www.luminous-landscape.com (or Google for other web

sites) and read about the "Expose To The Right" theory, as it pertains to all Canon cameras. The basic idea is

that Canon D-SLRs are deliberately designed and calibrated to expose a little on the low side, to be

conservative. This is done to protect from "blowing out" highlights (similar to the way we were careful to expose

slide film in years past). The down side to this is slightly darker shadows, perhaps with a little more noise,

increasing at higher ISOs.

 

"ETTR", as some call it, is really simple. Whenever relying on the camera's built in metering system (as in the

AV, TV and P modes, or reading it in M), add 1/3 to 2/3 stop exposure. This can be as simple as dialing in +1/3

stop exposure compensation and leaving it there most of the time. It does seem to make for slightly better

exposures, I've found. It's just a nuance of the Canon system, and I think another thing that they carried over

from some of their film cameras (I use EOS 3s and Elan 7, and found I could set +1/3 safely even with slides most

of the time).

 

Hope this helps! Enjoy your 10D. It's a great little camera!

 

 

 

 

 

[www.philwinterphotography.]

I've used a 10D for about 5 years now, and generally like it. 6mp is plenty for any reasonably sized prints (I had one

made at 4x6 FEET, and it was fine). I wish the 10D didn't have the 2 second startup delay and the LCD was larger.

Anyway, I don't plan to upgrade unless (1) my 10D fails, in which case I'll probably buy a used one for around $360,

or (2) I can afford a full frame.

 

Jacob was referring to the big wheel on the back that controls Exposure Compensation in AV and TV and P modes,

and aperture in M mode. My recommendation is, if you are not familiar with with how to use EC, just turn it off with

the switch on the back. But if you DO turn it off, make sure the EC is centered - zero exposure compensaton.

 

I shoot mostly manual mode because I got into this "sport" back when film boxes contained a sheet of paper

showing how to set the exposure under different lighting conditions. But with the 10D - and maybe other Canons as

well - are confusing to use when switching between M and AV modes or vice versa. In AV mode, the wheel by the

shutter release controls the aperture. The "big wheel on the back" controls shutter speed + or - 2 stops via EC

(assuming the "big wheel" is switched on). BUT! If you change to M mode, the "big wheel" now controls aperture

and the wheel by the shutter release controls shutter speed. In other words, they reverse themselves. Very

confusing! You would think that there would be a custom function to change one or the other so the controls would

be consistent. Are you listening, Canon? Didn't think so!

 

Do some research before you go, as others have suggested, then practice using P mode (ignore A mode and the

scene modes). When you're comfortable with that, try AV mode and EC.

 

Enjoy your workshop!

[alan_myers]

Whoops!

 

There were three other things I meant to mention...

 

If you tend to carry the camera over one shoulder, and particularly if you use it with the accessory BG-ED3 and

any heavier lenses or flashes attached, and it still has the original Canon strap... Replace it immediately with

a better strap like an UpStrap or OpTech. Personally, I think Canon's straps should come with a health warning

printed on them. I was having all sorts of neck and back problems, which pretty much went away after I replaced

the Canon straps with OpTech's. Of course, I still get sore after 10 or 12 hours shooting when I'm carrying two

cameras with grips, flashes and 70-200/2.8 and sometimes 300/2.8 lenses attached. Canon doesn't have to bear the

full blame!

 

Also, check the firmware that's installed in the camera. It's listed as the very last item in the menu. Then

check Canon's website to see if there is an update for it. It's always a good idea to download and install the

latest firmware. There are instructions on Canon's site how to do it. Read them carefully.

 

And, did you get the software CD with the camera? I think it came with Zoombrowser and Canon Digital Photo

Professional (most just call it "DPP"). These are very useful. You can download the latest versions of these from

Canon's website, too.

 

Cheers!

[stefanovandelli]

Holy guacamole,

 

Alan, that's what I call a reply.

This forum could do with more people like you.

 

Cheers,

S