Rain Forest Photography, how to deal with the elements?

[evan_browning]

Hey guys,

I recently asked about filters, thank you for all of your help. It has been very difficult to purchase these in Argentina, but I was able to find

some Hoya ND's and a Hoya Circular Polarizer. Unfortunately I can't seem to find Graduated ND's anywhere.

 

On to my next question. I will be traveling to Northern Peru to the Amazon basin for 2 weeks. I am shooting with a Nikon D40X, own three

appropriate lenses (12-20 Wide, 18-200, and a 30mm Prime f/1.4), a tripod, and sufficient filters. Given the muggy climate, and close

proximity to the sun, is there anything else specific that you can recommend I purchase before I go? Have you been to the rain forest and

have any photography tecniques that may be useful? Thanks again.

 

Evan

[carbon_dragon]

Generally, graduated NDs are square or rectangular and use a filter holder like the Cokin so that you can slide the graduated line (the transition between light and dark) to the right spot in the image. Cokin has them, but they aren't always very neutrally colored. I think Singh Ray makes them I'm not sure. Galen Rowell used to hawk one, but I'm not sure if it's still around since his death.

[bruce_margolis]

Evan, this is one thing I picked up for hiking in the rain forest. You might not always need it but nice to have it just in case. Very easy to carry along and it will easily fit with all your lenses......

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/469774-REG/Op_Tech_USA_9001132__8_RainSleeve_for_Camera.html

 

However, if you are traveling in heavy rain, I wouldn't recommend it. I have heard some say it is waterproof but I doubt it. If there is heavy rain, I would look for real waterproof gear covers.

[paul_de_ley]

Bring plenty of silica packs and zip-sealing plastic bags to store everything in at night and at other times when you're not actually using it.

[ShunCheung]

The common problem for photographers inside a rain forest is insufficient amount of light.

It is unusual that you need GND filters in that kind of environment.

[wpahnelas]

remember that your camera is not in any way weather-proof or weather sealed, and the operating environment is 0-40 degrees celsius (32-104 F) and humidity of less than 85% (no condensation). that's where the rainsleeve and silica packs come into play. of course, i wouldn't let any of that slow me down (not much, anyway). just bear it in mind so your gear survives the entire trip.

[nick_baker]

I went to the Peruvian Amazon last year, although at that time I had film cameras. You can expect some rain many days, but I did not experience continuous rain. So while you need a way to keep the camera dry, you may not end up shooting while it is actually raining. I did not find it as hot or humid as I expected (I was near Iquitos), although my expectation was relative to other rainforests I have been to; it is still going to be hot and humid compared to most places. Silica gel etc may be useful in the evening when you are not using the camera and if you also have a sealed environment to put the camera in, but I don't see how it can help while the camera is in use. If you have not experienced these conditions before, then be aware that at those humidity levels, temperature changes are going to resulting in condensation. You should expect your camera to fog up as things heat up in the morning. I'd avoid taking the lens off until the camera has warmed up. If you are air-conditioned, this will be an extreme problem. If possible I would not air condition the camera, or set the temperature as warm as you can. I have no experience with the D40x - I was recently in an Asian rain forest environment with a D300 and had no problems. Another photographer who I met there was using a 30D, again with no problems. Things to consider would include a spare body, and to ensure that you have enough batteries or will have access to power, and of course, do not run out of memory! I find a major challenge in rain forest photography is capturing the dynamic range of forest lighting. Sun-lit exposed leaves may easily require an exposure perhaps 8 stops different from those in the shade. I've never really solved this problem. Graduated neutral density filters are almost a waste of time. Perhaps the solution is radical exposure bracketing followed by assembly in post. A tripod may be useful for this. I recommend experimenting with how to do this before leaving. Enjoy - it is a wonderful place.

[daniel.barton]

I worked in Venezuela for two months this year, and I spent a good bit of time photographing birds (and some crummy scenery/landscape shots) there. It doesn't sound like you're shooting small birds, so I can't say much useful about technique except don't forget about fill flash, it'll save many shots. As for keeping your stuff working & dry:

 

1) Visit and take pictures in the dry season. If you are ignoring this advice (I mostly did), then:

2) Bring a solid umbrella, no matter how stupid it makes you look to locals. Figure out a way to attach it to you or a monopod or trekking pole or tripod if you want to shoot and change lenses in the rain.

3) Never change lenses unless you have to. Bugs crawl in the body and die, and humidity stinks.

4) Keep your camera at ambient temperature or higher than ambient temperature. Always! Don't let it get cold. Air conditioning, and then back out into the humidity, will fog things there that you didn't know could be fogged.

5) A Pelican case (a big one) and lots of bagged dry-rite or silica to dry out your gear. Works like a charm. But, don't forget that if you put your camera in here, it is buffered from changes in the ambient temperature. Thus, as it warms up, your camera will still be cold. I have a black Pelican case and so I just stuck it in the sun if I was outside birding and had the camera in the case.

 

I had almost no problems even doing stupid things like shooting immediately after very heavy rains.