CA and shadows --- all gone

[arthuryeo]

High contrast situations will lure the chromatic aberrations (CA) of my Nikkor 85mm/1.4AFD when I shoot open wide

using the D2X. <br>

But, on the D3, the CA is shut out by the eXpeed engine and the Active D-lighting made it looked like a

flash-filled image. The D3 is truly quite pleasurable to use.

 

<p>

<a href="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/7460749-lg.jpg"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/7460749-md.jpg"></a>

<br>

D3; Nikkor 85mm/1.4AFD; @f/1.4 --- Click image for larger size

[Peter_in_PA]

Arthur,

 

That feature seems like the absolute coolest thing about the D3 and D300 (hopefully about future cameras, too).

 

Does it work only in jpeg as I heard? Or in raw as well?

[samoksner]

Peter,

 

Active D-Lighting works all the time assuming you have it turned on.

 

The elimination of CA works on jpg strait out of the camera and on RAW files if they're processed with Nikon Capture NX or whatever it's called. If you process RAWs with anything else, CA is still present. I find that to be a compromise since i like to use Adobe camera raw since when i'm done, i can continue working on the image in photoshop seamlessly.

 

Arthur, the 85mm really shines on the D3, i tried is on my D200 and at f1.4 it seemed just a bit too crippled with CA, i found myself always removing the CA in post work. I also hear that the D3 automatically corrects vignetting on some lens' one of them being the 85mm f1.4, can you attest to how that works, or if it does at all?

[joseph_wisniewski]

Raw files get some exposure modification, and a tag that tells Nikon Capture or Lightroom to do the same thing the camera's processor would do to a JPEG.

[Rene11664880918]

I haven't been able to use Active D-lighting properly on my D300. I have tried it on the 3 different settings, Normal, high and

low and I don't see any difference. Well, I see just a little tiny change in tonality but nothing like is shown in the manual.

The one in NX works great.

 

CA seems to be eliminated well. Also it seems not to matter what Application you run. With the Tokina 11-16 everybody

says it has CA when shooting with any other camera. I haven't encountered that problem either when I use Aperture or NX.

Rene'

[michael_darnton1]

When you're viewing pix on the back of the camera, there's a menu to apply a number of editing changes, and D-lighting is one. That menu lets you quickly cycle through the choices, so it's easier to see and learn what's going on. I played around with that until I better understood what D-lighting does.

[Rene11664880918]

Michael... Right! I was just looking at them for the first time coz I had never gone to the editing menu before. You also get the same 3

settings, High, normal and low. But that is really editing the original frame and will save the file as JPG. I was talking about the setting

before you take the shot. It is in the shooting menu with D-lighting ON & OFF. I was playing with that a whole afternoon with the camera

set on a tripod trying to see the different results and i didn't find them to be so rewarding so I always keep ADL off. I will play with

it again and see.... Rene'

[elliot1]

Rene, when I initially got my D300 and tested it out, I didn't see much difference either between the 3 settings

or not using it at all. Yet in using the camera and experimenting a bit, I find, like the OP, that it works

really well in in high contrast situations like in direct sunlight. It seems to reduce the exposure to the

highlights and increase the exposure to the shadows and produce a well balanced image. I do not use it for

indoor photography.

[photo5]

I get the same results from my D300. I leave Active D-Lighting on in the 'Normal' position and forget about it. I find the added range is a nice plus.<P>

 

<center><img src="http://hull534.smugmug.com/photos/322061579_SwRcR-M.jpg"><P>

 

D300, JPG Fine, Nikon 28mm f2.8 AIS, June 28, 2008</center><P>

[eric_arnold]

my experience is that on a D300 ADL doesnt work that well for low-contrast situations, i.e. shooting in dimly-lit

environments at night. that could be because i usually have to use a higher ISO. i wouldnt recommend ADL at ISOs

over 800, maybe the D3 is better in that regard.

 

i need to try shooting in brighter hi-contrast situations with it but kinda got out of the habit of using it after some poor

initial results which made me wonder why my d80 night shots looked better. i've since figured out ADL + high-ISO

was the culprit.

 

but arthur's shot shows there are times it nails the exposure.

 

(nice shot, btw!)

 

curious as to what your results have been w/ ADL in low-light conditions w/ high ISO, or if you've even tried that?