What studio lights should i purchase?

[mario_saliba]

Hi all.

 

I am very concerned in investing in a studio lighting system. I did some checkes on some tutorials and some other

reading over the net. I am not quite conviced which brand is good or not. On the other side I dont want to spend

a fortune on studio lighting and after I will find out that I could have gone with something cheaper which gives

the same results.

 

My concern is that what is best, continious lighting or flash stobes? about continuous lighting I could set one

on my own but is it reliable as the strobes?

 

When searching on the net, on ebay, for any strobe equipment I came across the Blasseo stobe brand. If there is

anyone who used it can you give me a review on it.

 

I would like to use the lighting setup for mainly portraits and still life mainly. I think the same setup could

be used for other scenarios.

 

Thanks a lot for you suggestions. Will be appreciated.

 

Mario

[Matt Laur]

Some more information would help. What sort of subjects will you be shooting? In what sort of area/setting? What is your budget?

[mario_saliba]

thanks matt

 

About subjects any portrait. from babies to closeups and full length shots. Regarding the setting, I will use the equipment at home. regarding budget I would go from 500 to 600 dollars. but if there is something better at around 700 I would prefer to wait and get that.

 

thanks

[mario_saliba]

This is the kit I was considering. But first i wanted a tip from an experienced studio photographyer.

 

regards

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=190232396387&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=009

[howard_m]

http://www.alienbees.com/flash.html

[richard_crowe4]

I would definitely choose strobes over continuous lights. Continuous lights are usually hot (although there are some

fluorescent models available) and will often make your subjects uncomfortable. You don't have to worry about shutter

speed when using studio strobes. You don't need to flood the subject with a bright light to get a decent exposure.

Bright lights will cause your subjects irises to close down making the pupils very small. Strobes, can often use

accessories which will burn (such as some softboxes) when subjected to hot continuous lights.

 

When using a studio strobe outfit, you will have a modeling light which will allow you to visualize the results of the

strobe. I have a nice flash meter, but I know the properties of my modeling lights so well that I don't always use it.

 

Paul C. Buff's Alien Bees are very nice studio strobes. I have also recently noticed that Adorama is marketing

their "Flashpoint" brand studio strobes which look very interesting and been getting good reviews.

 

A pair of 300 Watt Second Flashpoint strobes with either softboxes or umbrellas and stands as your main and fill

lights, along with one or two 150 watt Second strobes with snoot and or grids for background and hair lights would

set you up just fine. You could, if desired, make do with only a background light but, the four light setup is usually

the best.

 

There is a 300 Watt Second unit which Adorama calls a "Digipopper" that is less expensive that the standard

Flashpoint 300 Watt Second units. The Digipopper "could" work but has only 1/4; 1/2 and full power settings while

the standard unit has unlimited controls. The lack of fine power controls on the Digipopper is somewhat limiting but,

by it, by no means, would prevent good imagery.

 

The Flashpoint units have a full range of accessories available and Adorama usually stands behind their products.

There are replacement parts available. This is quite important because things like flashtubes and modeling lights

can break if not handled delicately. That is my main worry about the Chinese no-name imports sold new on eBay.

 

Another way to get a good strobe setup is to haunt eBay and other used equipment sites. I was able to purchase a

three monolight German-made Multiblitz outfit that included barn doors, snoot, grid, filter holder and set of glass

filters. All of this equipment is in a suitcase sized case and I only paid $200 plus a few bucks shipping.

 

Of course, these lights did not include stands or light modifiers such as umbrellas or softboxes.

[Matt Laur]

I'll second Alien Bees. Start with a single AB800, a softbox, and a reflector. A stand for the strobe, and a stand with reflector holding arm for the reflector. You're far better off with one good strobe from a company that will actually stand behind the product than you are with one of those highly questionable imported low-power kits (for which you'll never find a replacement flash tube, etc).

[Charles_Webster]

+1 for Matt's advice. I asked the same question almost 2 years ago, bit the bullet and bought the ABs instead of the cheap hot lights, and haven't regretted it yet.

 

The problem with prowling Ebay for used gear is that you end up with a bunch of incompatible brands. This modifier won't fit that light, etc.

 

<Chas>

[Matt Laur]

Not to mention: if you're just getting started, it's actually FAR more useful to learn to master a single strobe and reflector. While you're getting the hang of it, save up for the second strobe, and then the third. Bu the time you have the money together, you'll be ready to introduce that next variable into what you're doing.

[summerleif]

I would suggest that you do some reading about lighting equipment. You can start by reading about some of the

equipment at the web sites of major lighting manufacturers. In alphabetical order, some of them include:

 

Bowens

 

http://www.bowensusa.com/

 

Broncolor

 

http://www.sinarbron.com/bron/index.php

 

Elinchrom

 

http://elinchrom.com/

 

Profoto

 

http://www.profoto.com/

 

Speedotron

 

http://speedotron.com/

 

- - - - -

 

You asked about continuous lights. If you want to massively increase your carbon footprint and spend as much over

time on electricity as you will have on lighting, choose continuous lights. Nearly everyone who does studio or

professional location photography uses strobes for many reasons, with the cost of electricity somewheere in their

list. Check any rental studio, and look for their continuous lighting surcharge!

 

Another reason to use strobes is that only generally expensive HMI continuous lights produce light at a daylight

balanced 5300K - 5600K white color. Movie studios often use very expensive Arri HMI lights which incredible price

tags.

 

There are many features to consider when choosing studio strobes.

 

Cheap strobes often provide only very large output adjustment increments. Have you ever notice how an inexpensive

on camera speedlight only has full, 1/2,1/4,1/8, 1/16, and so on? The better brands of strobes provide output

adjustments in 1/10 f-stop increments. Check the specifications for strobes when making this comparison.

 

Cheap strobes are often constructed of plastic and will not likely stand up to much usage.

 

Quality strobes are moving toward digital control circuitry and digital controls. Strobes with digital controls

have a display that indicates the precise output level in joules or as an f-stop fraction relative to the

strobe's maximum output.

 

Most quality strobe systems can operate both on AC power and using an optional battery system. Among mono-lights

the most familiar in this regard are the Bowens and AlienBee brands. The Bowens battery system is called

Travel-pak+. The Alienbee battery system is called Vagabond II. This option is priceless the day you decide to

shoot someone at the beach with their back to a setting sun.

 

http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CE1125/

 

http://www.bowensusa.com/

 

Higher quality strobes have shorter recycle times.

 

Higher quality strobes have shorter flash times, which make it possible to stop fast action like a balloon

bursting, glass shattering, or water splashing.

 

The most fancy studio strobes from companies like Profoto, Bowens Digital DX, and some others, provide remote

control features using IR, radio control or USB via computer with software.

 

High quality strobes have all metal, heavy duty construction that is designed for long term use.

 

- - -

 

Another aspect of a studio light system to assess is the range of accessories available from them such as:

reflectors, snoots, beauty dishes, grids, barn doors, and so on.

 

 

I use Bowens Gemini Digital lights because they have many of the features I have described while being within the

mid-range for cost.

 

http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/BW4375/

 

http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/BW3715/

 

Studio strobe lighting is still a business that often provides specific features at a price. Photographic studio

lighting is not a high volume business, like mega corporations that sell digital point and shoot cameras.

However, most of the quality studio strobe lighting companies create products that last quite a long time, and

provide high levels of reliability.

 

good luck researching lighting carefully and making a purchase that is an informed choice.

[summerleif]

Many people considering a first time studio lighting purchase overlook the cost of the many studio accessories required to do useful work. At a minimum, usually two lights are needed to create photographs with much dimension. Starter kits are available with two strobes, in part, for this reason.

 

Other things to consider are reflectors. Although white foamcore is the considered by many, including me, to be the most practical and effective studio reflector, a studio needs holders and stands for them, like these:

 

http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/MF6860K/

 

to hold the foamcore sheet, or to hold a commercial reflector disc, or frame and fabric reflector, in position.

 

Also, a good boom stand is needed to manage a hair light.

 

High key is most easily achieved with the Rockin' Lastolite Hiliter units, and so on.

 

The modern studio also needs a good selection of softboxes, umbrellas, and related light shaping tools. When using softboxes, it is helpful to have the newfangled adapters with hinges, like these:

 

http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/RM6410K/

 

Don't forget the need for Pocketwizards and a Sekonic light meter with a built-in Pocketwizard transmitter.

 

It doesn't take long before the cost of studio light management gear can quickly exceed what most people spend on their camera and lenses.

[Matt Laur]

Good overview from Summer. It certainly helps - even at the very early stages - to have your eye on the long term requirements. In this case, Mario's $700-max budget is really going to do most of the talking, here. I agree that two strobes are better than one for finished results, but I think that getting two cheap and under-performing ones with poor light modifiers is WORSE than working with a decent quality entry-level-but-still-decent single strobe, a la A.B.

 

No question that having the urge to do studio work (especially full-length shots, and groups) asks a lot more of the lighting budget than most people expect. None of us want to see Mario throw away money on his first lighting gear - and we also want to see him not have to quintuple his budget. That's why product lines like the Alien Bees do so much business... they're made exactly for people like Mario, even if he doesn't know it yet.

[brooks short]

"...Alien Bees do so much business... they're made exactly for people like Mario, even if he doesn't know it yet.....".

 

From his portfolio and info it looks like Mario might be located in Europe ? While ABs do a lot of business with beginning photographers here in the States, in Europe...not so much.

[mario_saliba]

Thanks for your reviews and help.

 

Thats right Brooks, I am located in Europe, in Malta (thats an island under Sicily). And the problem here is shipping of equipment. From this forum I got a starting point. I sent an email to AlienBees in America to check how much would be my postage expences. They havnt yet replied back, but thats maybe today its Saturday. Will wait till Monday and make a call then.

 

Checked the postage from adorama on Flashpoint units. Its 300dollars to ship!

 

Another option would be the Elinchrom system. I found various agents in Europe. That would be an advantage on postage and other importation taxes. There will be any taxes if they are imported from countries inside the EU community. Elinchrom have a setup 'D-Lite 4 to go set' that I think will suit my requirements.

 

http://elinchrom.com/

 

Final thing the Alien Bees are with a 110V input. I will also need a step down transformer for the unit.

 

Thanks again my friends

[Matt Laur]

Elinchrom does sound like a pretty good choice, given the circumstances. Sorry I didn't infer the shipping location while talking about a US manufacturer.

[mario_saliba]

no problem. i just found that when tried to calculate the shipping costs. But thanks for you valuable help.

[summerleif]

Mario, if you are in Europe, you may want to check with Calumet Photo, because they have stores in Europe, and they sell versions of lighting equipment from numerous brands with electronics for European mains power.

 

http://www.calumetphoto.de/

 

http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/