Stitching to make panoramas - tripod attachments?

[ed_hurst]

Hello all,

 

I am planning to do a lot more panoramic shots by stitching together multiple images. I recall reading on here about

specliased attachments for tripods to make sure that the camera rotates appropriately between shots (around the

right point in the camera-lens combination). Can't remember the right terminology! Could anyone point me in the

direction of the right equipment please? I use a 1DSmkii with various lenses (from short to long) and also medium

format cameras (with different lenses) so the equipment needs to handle heavy equipment and be capable of

adapting to the needs of quite varied sizes/weights/lenghts of equipment.

 

Many thanks in advance.

[ed_hurst]

Just noticed the clumsy and frankly unstylish repeated use of the word "equipment" in the final sentence. Not to mention the typo. I do apologise for this unforgivable slovenlinessin my English (and also for the fact that I couldn't find this information in the archives).

[bjscharp]

<p>What you are looking for is a `panorama head', a combination of bars which allow you to rotate the camera/lens around the lens' nodal point, instead of the focal plane of the camera.</p>

 

<p>RRS have a <a href="http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/index.html">very good explanation</a> of this all on their website.</p>

 

<p>Their `Pano package' is also one of the best panorama heads around, or so I'm told (still saving up for one).</p>

[mark u]

Take a look here for links to reviews of several offerings:

 

http://wiki.panotools.org/Heads

 

You may also find this site is a useful resource (particularly on software):

 

http://www.panoguide.com/

[michael_ziegler2]

I have found that I can get some quite good panos hand holding (IS necessary) and then using CS2 or 3 stiching software and a little bit of croping. A key element is to shoot in manual exposure and holding focus constant. If you don't shoot manual you are likely to get a slightly different exposure on each panel which does not lead to seamless appearance.

I think any decent triopod/head that is set to be square (use the bubble level) would give more than acceptable results.

[stevepamp]

I agree with the answer above. I've created tons of panoramas both handheld and on a tripod using a normal head. So long as you overlap each frame by 25% or so, and use a lens/focal length that limits or eliminates distortion (in the relative-normal range) any stitching software should do fine

[images_in_light_north_west]

You dont need all that crap unless maybe you are doing close up Panos, a good ball head,proper exposure and decent software are whats required.

[sarah_fox]

If you do landscape panoramas with lenses that aren't too wide, you can probably do a good enough job handheld. If you do close, tight panorama shots, for instance in the interior of a building, you need a precisely positioned tripod attachment. You can either throw a bit of money at some of the equipment Mark has recommended, or if you're cheap like me, you can make your own attachment, provided you have reasonable enough woodworking skills. Here is mine, custom constructed for either an EOS 10D or an EOS 5D (mounts either, with different holes):

 

www.graphic-fusion.com/panrig03.jpg

 

Here's a detail of how to rig the mounting screw:

 

www.graphic-fusion.com/panrig01.jpg

 

Here's how it looks all mounted up, with a Sigma 12-24mm lens:

 

www.graphic-fusion.com/panrig02.jpg

 

Note: Not the best tripod, but it's good enough for what I use the rig for (real estate photography), and it's actually easier to use for this application than my Tiltall.

 

I've been intending to put up a page on my website about this bracket. This is a good day to do it, so check back here for the scoop on how to set the thing up:

 

www.graphic-fusion.com/panrig.htm

[sarah_fox]

Here you go. This will explain everything about my DIY rig:

 

http://www.graphic-fusion.com/panrig.htm

 

(I've been meaning to put that page up for a while now.)

 

My bracket isn't as versatile as the generic, pre-manufactured ones, but it is more rigid, more accurate, and faster/easier to set up.

[ronald_moravec1]

Cool pano bracket. I think I will be making one very soon.

[stp]

Sarah, that's terrific, and a great explanation.

[Jeff Lear]

Are Canon lenses marked for nodal point and if not, how does one determine nodal point?...

 

Nevermind, I just read Sarah's great article!

 

Now I'm off to fire up my band saw and router table with a print out of Sarah's pano mount. Then I have to capture

and train a fly.

[jamesdak]

I shoot panos alot and use a variety of methods. Sometimes I hand hold, sometimes tripod mounted and rotate the

head, and sometimes I do use my pano heads. The tough ones are the closeup panos or inside where precision is

key. Make sure to use a constant manual exposuer, keep focus constant and do not use AWB.

 

Check out this gallery to see both good and bad samples:

http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/ogden_valley_images

 

If you go to the end of this gallery you will find a closeup pano of a barn where the perspective is all jacked up. This

has been my most challenging shot and one I still don't have right.

 

Also, check out this pano to see what can be done handheld. If you select the original size for the image you will

get a much larger version to look at. This was a work in progress but the final copy is now dust spot free and the

mountains are more defined. Still it can give you a better idea of what can be done versus the normal tiny print.

This will print at over 13" x 50+"

http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/87408333

[richard_crowe4]

When I shoot single string panos (one strip of pictures) I will often not use a pano attachment at all. The Really Right Stuff L-Bracket does a pretty fair job of holding the camera.

 

http://reallyrightstuff.com/QR/05.html

 

I primarily shoot single string panos using the camera in the portrait position (vertical) because I am able to get the same top to bottom coverage with a longer focal length lens in the portrait position as I can with a wider lens in the landscape (horizontal) position. The left to right coverage is limited only by the number of images you stitch together.

 

If I want to shoot multi string panos (which I don't do often because it is just too much work) I will use a Panosaurus which is a pano head that runs about $80 plus shipping

 

http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm

 

Here are some great examples of pano work by Max Lyons:

 

http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/index.html.

[emre]

I also use Greg's Panosaurus. It's clumsy but works. You only need it if you are composing a panorama that has both near and far elements, otherwise you can just shoot handheld.

[sarah_fox]

Ronald, Stephen, Jeff, glad you like the bracket/writeup! ;-) Jeff, please let me know how the fly training goes. My only trip would be to start training it from when it's a young little maggot, because it's hard to teach an old fly new tricks. ;-)